Replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and shaft log tube - Page 2 - SailNet Community
 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
Senior Moment Member
 
SloopJonB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 11,361
Thanks: 59
Thanked 67 Times in 64 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by msmith10 View Post
As drastic as it sounds, it is sometimes easiest to cut the prop shaft.
Couplings are usually a lot cheaper than shafts so if you have to cut something, I'd recommend cutting the coupling. Use a cutoff wheel in a small angle grinder and cut it lengthwise. When you get near the shaft, be extremely careful - you don't want to cut a slot in the shaft. After cutting a slot through the coupling, just wedge it open enough to slip off the shaft


Quote:
Originally Posted by msmith10 View Post
After the prop shaft coupling is removed, the rest is easy. Pull the shaft, replace the shaft log rubber tube, replace stuffing box, replace prop shaft, attach coupling, align prop shaft. This is a good time to replace cutlass bearing if it needs it, and to repack stuffing box.
Don't forget to check the alignment after a couple of days in the water - boats can change shape on the hard and very precise alignment is needed on a shaft coupling - four or five thou is very normal.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
SloopJonB is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
Senior Moment Member
 
SloopJonB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 11,361
Thanks: 59
Thanked 67 Times in 64 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
The worse case is having to cut the shaft and drop the rudder to change the shaft

wheel steering and a quadrant you have to stand on your head to reach is bonus points for extra hard

Its somewhat unlikely that IF you get the coupling off it will still spin true after X years of rusting in place when you put it back on
Add a V-Drive for maximum points.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
SloopJonB is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #13 of 35 Old 12-12-2011 Thread Starter
Senior Smart Aleck
 
jameswilson29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 2,152
Thanks: 34
Thanked 70 Times in 65 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
Question Started the repair...

I decided to replace the packing box, cutlass bearing and propeller.

Yesterday, I removed the propeller shaft bolts from the coupling, but could not release the shaft from the coupling. There is not enough room currently to replace the packing in the stuffing box, so I intend to replace not only the hose, but the entire packing box assembly.

All parts are severly corroded. [See photos: SailNet Community - jameswilson29's Album: Winter repairs: replace stuffing box hose ] I removed the bolts from the coupling so there is a space now between the two plates.

The transmission plate is a thick rubber pad. Should I replace this with a metal plate to gain more room for the stuffing box?

I assume this reduces vibration. Does it also eliminate the need to align the coupling?
jameswilson29 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #14 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
Reward for lost Kraken!
 
hellosailor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 11,445
Thanks: 5
Thanked 131 Times in 128 Posts
Rep Power: 11
   
The "rubber" plate may be a shear plate, designed to shear if you get the shaft wrapped or jammed, instead of passing the shock on to the engine. Arguably a good idea. It wouldn't eliminate the need to align the coupling but might allow the alignment to be a little less critically done.

The ones I've seen are more of a hard plastic or elastomer than plain rubber.
hellosailor is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #15 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
Senior Member
 
BarryL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,789
Thanks: 4
Thanked 43 Times in 38 Posts
Rep Power: 12
 
drive saver

Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswilson29 View Post
The transmission plate is a thick rubber pad. Should I replace this with a metal plate to gain more room for the stuffing box?

I assume this reduces vibration. Does it also eliminate the need to align the coupling?
What you have is indeed a drivesaver:
http://www.globecomposite.com/pages/products_drivesaver

I have one on my boat (came with it) and it seems like a good idea to me, so I kept it I replaced my stuffing box and hose.

good luck,
Barry

Barry

Barry Lenoble
Deep Blue C, 2002 C&C 110
Mt. Sinai, NY

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BarryL is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #16 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,077
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 11
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tynesider View Post
Had the same problem with a flexable coupling on a 1" dia shaft and getting the coupling off the shaft, tried hitting it, pullers, heating it, no chance.

Then told an old trick, undo all the coupling bolts enough to put a 'large socket' (bigger i/d than the shaft) between the two coupling flange faces, re tighten all the coupling bolts, you then push the couplings apart no problem !
!
that sounds like a good trick but wouldn't the socket need to be smaller than the shaft[id of the coupling] also the engine side coupling might be the one that gives first
sawingknots is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #17 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
Senior Member
 
Sabreman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Yeocomico River, VA
Posts: 1,643
Thanks: 3
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
Rep Power: 10
   
I have done this job three times between my 2 Sabres. It's relatively easy and takes about 4-5 hours to do the complete job of replacing the shaft, coupling, and installing a new shaft seal. I've posted the procedure on Sailnet; see the following link for tips and PM me if you have questions.

The coupler and shaft are a mated pair. They are machined together, so if you cut the coupling, do the job right and get a shaft made (and vice versa).

Do I need a New Shaft?

Mainesail has awesome How-To tutorials. Applicable to this thread are:

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
PSS Shaft Seal Installation Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com [this is a priceless tip for separating the coupling from the shaft]

Sabre 38 "Victoria"
Sabreman is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #18 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
Tartan 27' owner
 
CalebD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,738
Thanks: 4
Thanked 107 Times in 99 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
What is the shaft made of?

You should try to determine what material your shaft is made of. We found that our 43 year old shaft was made of bronze and was badly worn at the Cutless bearing - so not worth the trouble trying to get it out in one piece. A Sawzall with a metal blade made light work of cutting the shaft for removal.
Apparently, back in the day boat builders used bronze shafts in many boats as it was cheaper then stainless. Today, a stainless shaft will be cheaper and easier to find then one in bronze.
I thought our drive train area was cramped but yours looks worse. You are not alone in tackling this job over the winter. What fun, eh?
Attached Thumbnails
A4-drive-train1-a.jpg  

"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CalebD is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #19 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,077
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 11
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post

The coupler and shaft are a mated pair. They are machined together, so if you cut the coupling, do the job right and get a shaft made (and vice versa).

]
thats a good point,if you replace just the coupling take the shaft to a machine shop and get the face of the new coupling trued up also the shaft may be bent or pitted at the snuffing box or cutlass bearing
sawingknots is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #20 of 35 Old 12-12-2011 Thread Starter
Senior Smart Aleck
 
jameswilson29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 2,152
Thanks: 34
Thanked 70 Times in 65 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
Stainless steel 7/8" propeller shaft

The propeller shaft appears to be stainless steel, 7/8" diameter. I would prefer to retain it, if possible, along with the coupling, instead of paying another $300 + $80 in parts. The propeller shaft seems to be in good shape so far.
jameswilson29 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Advice: Replacing Stuffing Box Hose Piratesoul Gear & Maintenance 17 07-20-2011 04:25 PM
shaft log hose gulftex Gear & Maintenance 5 03-23-2009 03:27 PM
Propeller Shaft Packing Material mightyhorton Passport 0 12-07-2008 11:04 AM
Recommended hose for stern tube to stuffing box GBurton Gear & Maintenance 10 03-18-2008 09:50 PM
Propeller shaft woes............. clayjay Gear & Maintenance 24 03-13-2008 08:17 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome