Replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and shaft log tube - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 11-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msmith10 View Post
As drastic as it sounds, it is sometimes easiest to cut the prop shaft.
Couplings are usually a lot cheaper than shafts so if you have to cut something, I'd recommend cutting the coupling. Use a cutoff wheel in a small angle grinder and cut it lengthwise. When you get near the shaft, be extremely careful - you don't want to cut a slot in the shaft. After cutting a slot through the coupling, just wedge it open enough to slip off the shaft


Quote:
Originally Posted by msmith10 View Post
After the prop shaft coupling is removed, the rest is easy. Pull the shaft, replace the shaft log rubber tube, replace stuffing box, replace prop shaft, attach coupling, align prop shaft. This is a good time to replace cutlass bearing if it needs it, and to repack stuffing box.
Don't forget to check the alignment after a couple of days in the water - boats can change shape on the hard and very precise alignment is needed on a shaft coupling - four or five thou is very normal.
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
The worse case is having to cut the shaft and drop the rudder to change the shaft

wheel steering and a quadrant you have to stand on your head to reach is bonus points for extra hard

Its somewhat unlikely that IF you get the coupling off it will still spin true after X years of rusting in place when you put it back on
Add a V-Drive for maximum points.
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Old 12-12-2011
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Question Started the repair...

I decided to replace the packing box, cutlass bearing and propeller.

Yesterday, I removed the propeller shaft bolts from the coupling, but could not release the shaft from the coupling. There is not enough room currently to replace the packing in the stuffing box, so I intend to replace not only the hose, but the entire packing box assembly.

All parts are severly corroded. [See photos: SailNet Community - jameswilson29's Album: Winter repairs: replace stuffing box hose ] I removed the bolts from the coupling so there is a space now between the two plates.

The transmission plate is a thick rubber pad. Should I replace this with a metal plate to gain more room for the stuffing box?

I assume this reduces vibration. Does it also eliminate the need to align the coupling?
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Old 12-12-2011
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The "rubber" plate may be a shear plate, designed to shear if you get the shaft wrapped or jammed, instead of passing the shock on to the engine. Arguably a good idea. It wouldn't eliminate the need to align the coupling but might allow the alignment to be a little less critically done.

The ones I've seen are more of a hard plastic or elastomer than plain rubber.
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Old 12-12-2011
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drive saver

Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswilson29 View Post
The transmission plate is a thick rubber pad. Should I replace this with a metal plate to gain more room for the stuffing box?

I assume this reduces vibration. Does it also eliminate the need to align the coupling?
What you have is indeed a drivesaver:
http://www.globecomposite.com/pages/products_drivesaver

I have one on my boat (came with it) and it seems like a good idea to me, so I kept it I replaced my stuffing box and hose.

good luck,
Barry

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tynesider View Post
Had the same problem with a flexable coupling on a 1" dia shaft and getting the coupling off the shaft, tried hitting it, pullers, heating it, no chance.

Then told an old trick, undo all the coupling bolts enough to put a 'large socket' (bigger i/d than the shaft) between the two coupling flange faces, re tighten all the coupling bolts, you then push the couplings apart no problem !
!
that sounds like a good trick but wouldn't the socket need to be smaller than the shaft[id of the coupling] also the engine side coupling might be the one that gives first
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Old 12-12-2011
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I have done this job three times between my 2 Sabres. It's relatively easy and takes about 4-5 hours to do the complete job of replacing the shaft, coupling, and installing a new shaft seal. I've posted the procedure on Sailnet; see the following link for tips and PM me if you have questions.

The coupler and shaft are a mated pair. They are machined together, so if you cut the coupling, do the job right and get a shaft made (and vice versa).

Do I need a New Shaft?

Mainesail has awesome How-To tutorials. Applicable to this thread are:

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
PSS Shaft Seal Installation Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com [this is a priceless tip for separating the coupling from the shaft]
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Old 12-12-2011
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What is the shaft made of?

You should try to determine what material your shaft is made of. We found that our 43 year old shaft was made of bronze and was badly worn at the Cutless bearing - so not worth the trouble trying to get it out in one piece. A Sawzall with a metal blade made light work of cutting the shaft for removal.
Apparently, back in the day boat builders used bronze shafts in many boats as it was cheaper then stainless. Today, a stainless shaft will be cheaper and easier to find then one in bronze.
I thought our drive train area was cramped but yours looks worse. You are not alone in tackling this job over the winter. What fun, eh?
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Replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and shaft log tube-a4-drive-train1-.jpg  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post

The coupler and shaft are a mated pair. They are machined together, so if you cut the coupling, do the job right and get a shaft made (and vice versa).

]
thats a good point,if you replace just the coupling take the shaft to a machine shop and get the face of the new coupling trued up also the shaft may be bent or pitted at the snuffing box or cutlass bearing
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Old 12-12-2011
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Stainless steel 7/8" propeller shaft

The propeller shaft appears to be stainless steel, 7/8" diameter. I would prefer to retain it, if possible, along with the coupling, instead of paying another $300 + $80 in parts. The propeller shaft seems to be in good shape so far.
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