Replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and shaft log tube - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
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lol who started that thread "are sailors cheap" if the shafts not bent[warped] or pitted that idea of putting a socket[smaller than the coupling id between the couplings and gradually tighning the bolts /longer ones/ just might work while tapping/whaming/beating the hell out of it with a small/big/big ass hamer and maybe some torch heat,or cutting off the old coupling,put on a new one then check the runout with a indicator on the mating face while turning the shaft
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post #22 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
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OK. So your shaft is stainless and may not be 34 years old and you'd like to save it.
You are going to have to try to press the shaft out of the coupling then. I'd suggest getting a steering wheel puller kit from an auto parts store (see pic below). Having the 'puller' tool can save you from having to compress something between your output flange and shaft flange, if you can make enough space to insert it once the couplers are apart. This will be a much bigger PITA to do in the boat. The problem with the 'press out' method is that you can ruin both the output coupler and shaft coupler in the process.
Another fun part of this job (if you're going whole hog) is removing the old Cutless bearing. We tried pressing it out with a threaded rod and fittings but no go. Sawzall to the rescue again (2nd pic).
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Shaft-flange removal 2.jpg   cutless-cut-up.jpg  

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post #23 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jameswilson29 View Post
The propeller shaft appears to be stainless steel, 7/8" diameter. I would prefer to retain it, if possible, along with the coupling, instead of paying another $300 + $80 in parts. The propeller shaft seems to be in good shape so far.

James,

If the shaft comes out in good shape you can have it checked for true and re-use it. Couplings are most often NOT reusable and it can be unsafe to do so. A proper fit is a light press fit. Once you break the rust free the coupling usually just slides on, this = bad... A new coupling is about $65.00 and fitting and facing about another $65.00-$70.00 and well worth the expense.

DO NOT ruin or bend your transmission output flange trying to remove your coupling. They can be very easy to bend or snap. If you ruin your gear box you'll be wondering why you did not just cut the shaft out when the $$$$$$$$ is adding up..

I would recommend a fitted & faced "split coupling" when you put it back together.. Buck Algonquin sells them..
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post #24 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
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What MaineSail posted/said!
There are a bunch of parts you can set out of true in the drive train using the press method for separating the pieces.
I priced a new SS shaft for my boat (just over 3') at around $200. New coupling (recommended) and a new output flange plus any possible transmission damage would cost quite a bit more to fix then a new shaft. I'm seriously considering getting a new coupling with a new shaft.

Hey MaineSail,
Do you have any comment on using a shaft coupling with a split hub? Like the one pictured over at Moyer's website? (Sorry, you have to scroll down to "Direct drive prop shaft coupling, with split hub (1 inch)" Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts )
I also have a lightly used 'drive saver' I was thinking of using with the new shaft and coupling. Something like this: 504 Drivesaverô Drivetrain Protection
Any comment on using these components in my rebuild?
My set up is a direct drive transmission from an Atomic 4 engine in an ancient Tartan 27 if that matters.
This is all fairly new territory for me so I am looking for the voice of experience.
Thanks.

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post #25 of 35 Old 12-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
What MaineSail posted/said!
There are a bunch of parts you can set out of true in the drive train using the press method for separating the pieces.
I priced a new SS shaft for my boat (just over 3') at around $200. New coupling (recommended) and a new output flange plus any possible transmission damage would cost quite a bit more to fix then a new shaft. I'm seriously considering getting a new coupling with a new shaft.

Hey MaineSail,
Do you have any comment on using a shaft coupling with a split hub? Like the one pictured over at Moyer's website? (Sorry, you have to scroll down to "Direct drive prop shaft coupling, with split hub (1 inch)" Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts )
I also have a lightly used 'drive saver' I was thinking of using with the new shaft and coupling. Something like this: 504 Drivesaverô Drivetrain Protection
Any comment on using these components in my rebuild?
My set up is a direct drive transmission from an Atomic 4 engine in an ancient Tartan 27 if that matters.
This is all fairly new territory for me so I am looking for the voice of experience.
Thanks.
I usually use split couplings. Just finished installing one today on a Sabre 34. Buck Algonquin has a "shorty" version that can also give a little more room for boats with no space for re-packing.

Don't let the split coupling marketing fool you. They still need to be both fitted and faced to the shaft by a COMPETENT shop. The photo below shows it shimmed parallel for fitting to the shaft.Becuase they are split the shimming parallel takes more time than doing a solid coupling. Some hack shops won't take this step or don't even consider it but for a proper fit it is best to be done correctly.


This is the BA shorty split coupling:


After facing:



I am not a big fan of Drivesavers because I often see them cause more issues than they solve. If installed correctly they can work but they are rarely installed correctly, or to ABYC standards, which requires a jumper to keep ships ground intact.
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post #26 of 35 Old 12-14-2011
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As usual, mainsail is the voice of reason and correct procedure.

On our current boat, I replaced everything aft of the transmission. I only needed to replace the cutlass bearing but the shaft was original bronze and scored, and the stuffing box leaked. I had just bought a $75,000 boat; saving a couple hundred $ seemed pointless. So I replaced everything (shaft, coupling, shaft seal, cutlass bearing) and am reaping the benefits 6 years later. This is not a job where it's even remotely advisable to attempt to save a few dollars.

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post #27 of 35 Old 12-14-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the responses.

O.K. - I won't be cheap about it - I ordered the Buck Algonquin split shorty coupler and shaft removal tool. I hope the propeller shaft is in good shape.

How and where would I find a competent shop to fit and face the coupler to the propeller shaft?

The boat is in a small marina on the Northern Neck of Virginia and I live near Richmond, Va., which has a small industrial base.

Is this something an ordinary machine shop can do, or does it have to be a "marine" machine shop?

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post #29 of 35 Old 12-14-2011
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i would think any machine shop that has a lathe and knows how to use a indicator even a automotive btw if you press the coupling onto the shaft first you will need to move the engine and slide the shaft from the inside
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post #30 of 35 Old 12-14-2011
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Maine, all this sticking the shaft in the coupling, lathing everything, not just "bolting it up"...is this akin to "blueprinting" an engine instead of just building it? Is this really necessary every time a shaft is popped off?

Or is it more for the folks who simply prefer ironed shirts to permanent press?
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