Replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and shaft log tube - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 35 Old 11-01-2011 Thread Starter
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Replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and shaft log tube

Does anyone have any DIY experience with replacing the hose between the propeller shaft stuffing box and the shaft log tube?

Boat is 34 years old and access is through the cockpit lockers.

1. Is this a DIY project? Any good resources? Will all bolts likely be frozen? Will I be able to do this with an ordinary socket set and wrenches?

2. How much would this likely cost at a yard in the Potomac River area of the Bay?

The surveyor mentioned the possibility in the worse case that the shaft may have to be sawed off with a sawzall if I cannot unfreeze the bolts on the coupling.
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post #2 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Stuffing Box Hose Replacement

I am in the process of doing this now. I approached the job by reading whatever I could find on the web and a few books I have. Most articles suggested it would be a very difficult task due to age (1982 Peasrson 28-1). I also obtained an estimate of $1100. I used penetrating oil on the various parts and let them set for a week. I went to the yard yesterday and everything went perfect. The two set screws have been removed from the transmission coupling (trans in neutral - I don't know if this matters) and the prop shaft is 80% (about 1.5 ") out of the transmission. I added more penetrating oil and will return in about a week to pull it all the way out. The stuffing box hose has been removed and bronze device (coupler?) that holds the packing came apart quite easily.

My advice would be to clear everything out of the area you are going to work in and lay in a couple of cushions to prop yourself on. Also, make sure you have good lighting and ventillation and have your phone in a spot you can reach if someone calls you.

I do not have the project complete yet but I felt pretty good with what I accomplished and now know more about the boat than I did before whoich is always a plus.
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post #3 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Surveyor is right. The hardest part of the job is pulling the prop shaft (getting the prop shaft coupling off the shaft). You may be able to force the shaft out of the coupling by removing the bolts holding the prop shaft coupler to the output flange on the transmission output shaft, sliding the shaft away from the tranny, then putting a socket (or some similar-shaped object) against the end of the prop shaft, replacing the bolts, then tightening them, thereby forcing the prop shaft out of the coupling. You have to be careful not to bend either the prop shaft coupling or output coupling. As drastic as it sounds, it is sometimes easiest to cut the prop shaft.
After the prop shaft coupling is removed, the rest is easy. Pull the shaft, replace the shaft log rubber tube, replace stuffing box, replace prop shaft, attach coupling, align prop shaft. This is a good time to replace cutlass bearing if it needs it, and to repack stuffing box.

Mark Smith
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post #4 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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You might want to price a replacement shaft and coupling to see how that stacks up against labor time and options for unsticking it. Bearing in mind that you are working in a confined space...sometimes a dedicated penetrant like Kroil or PBlaster will drop things apart. They attack the chemical bonds, they're not just lubricants like WD40.

And when all else fails, a slurry of dry ice in alcohol, or a CO2 extinguisher, can be used to freeze-cycle parts and make them come apart without the risks of a torch. Used judicisouly, a torch has purposes too. But there are alternatives to just whapping it with a hammer, and sometimes penetrant and a properly improvised shaft puller is all it will need. Sometimes, it is easier to take a Sawzall and simply be done with it.
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post #5 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Be sure to use a purpose made hose for this. Some think a conventional hose is appropriate for this use but it is not. The price is not enough to make a cheap alternative a good idea. replacing the cutlas bearing is also a good idea as is checking the shaft for true.

After it is all back together and in the water for at least a week, check the alignment.

HOSE FOR PACKING BOX 1 1/2"I.D. FOR 3/4" SHAFT 103999

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post #6 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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As has been said the coupler to shaft connection is the hardest part. If possible remove the coupler set screws and fill the holes with PB Blaster. Let sit for several hours, refill and tap the coupler/shaft z couple times with a hammer. Not hard, the vibrations help the PB do it's thing. If you have room, slide the shaft back and use a puller to get the coupler off the shaft. If no room use a socket, quarters, a large nut, what ever fits and try MS's method (it worked for me). Be very careful not to use too much force, the coupling flanges will bend. If it doesn't start to move, leave slight pressure on it and apply more PB and wait for a while.
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post #7 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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The worse case is having to cut the shaft and drop the rudder to change the shaft

wheel steering and a quadrant you have to stand on your head to reach is bonus points for extra hard

Its somewhat unlikely that IF you get the coupling off it will still spin true after X years of rusting in place when you put it back on
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post #8 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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James, the shaft on a P28-1 is offset so it will clear the rudder once the prop is removed.

And dropping the rudder on this boat is very easy if you have to.

Also, if the boat has the A4, it will be a good time to repack the grease cup on the raw water pump and change the impeller.

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post #9 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Had the same problem with a flexable coupling on a 1" dia shaft and getting the coupling off the shaft, tried hitting it, pullers, heating it, no chance.

Then told an old trick, undo all the coupling bolts enough to put a 'large socket' (bigger i/d than the shaft) between the two coupling flange faces, re tighten all the coupling bolts, you then push the couplings apart no problem !

The flange on the end of the shaft usuallly has a key to locate it, so don't lose it in the bilge!

Also check most flanges have a grub screw, pin or bolt locking it, so make sure you have undone them before starting.

As Tim said the stern tube rubber seal is not ordinary rubber piping, it is special thicker walled especially for the job.

Good luck it's fun!!!

Mike

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post #10 of 35 Old 11-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveling Light View Post
I am in the process of doing this now. I approached the job by reading whatever I could find on the web and a few books I have. Most articles suggested it would be a very difficult task due to age (1982 Peasrson 28-1). I also obtained an estimate of $1100. I used penetrating oil on the various parts and let them set for a week. I went to the yard yesterday and everything went perfect. The two set screws have been removed from the transmission coupling (trans in neutral - I don't know if this matters) and the prop shaft is 80% (about 1.5 ") out of the transmission. I added more penetrating oil and will return in about a week to pull it all the way out. The stuffing box hose has been removed and bronze device (coupler?) that holds the packing came apart quite easily.
Boy did you get lucky! and that "bronze device (coupler?) that holds the packing" - that would BE the stuffing box.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.

Last edited by SloopJonB; 11-01-2011 at 08:49 PM.
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