Consider *Honey Teak* by Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Home
This is a 2part base + 2part clear system.
If done properly and if properly 'maintained' .... a yearly or every two year 'slop coat' of clear can last for over 10 years. HT is an acrylic-urethane copolymer system --- can be 'power buffed' to extreme brilliance - can make a prime
varnish job 'blush with envy' if you want to spend the extra time 'hand-finishing' the finish as is done with 'prime' varnish jobs.
The secret for HT is to apply the base coat THICK, much thicker than what Signature Finish Co. recommends so that you get 'extra' UV protection of the surface wood cells; put on 3-4 full coats of base!!!!!!! All UV protective coatings will easily/rapidly fail if there isnt 'thick enough' base coating.
Since this is a catalyzed system you can put it on 'wet on wet' (just wait until the previous coat begins to 'kick'). Weather conditions needed will be the same as varnish, although the colder the weather the better the 'flow-out' --- do NOT apply if the dewpoint is dropping (relative humidity increasing and the temperature decreasing).
When ordering tell them how much surface area you will be covering ... and they will 'split' the containers and just send you what you NEED.
Sanding/prep is done with 100 grit, maintenance 'sanding' is by using a Scotch "purple" Pad which is used to 'scuff' the clear surface. I put on 3 clear coats every 3 years and lightly 'power buff' in the intervening years.
A fresh/new 'base' coating will look like 'diluted butterscotch' for a few weeks/months then will rapidly fade to look like an oil-based amber varnish job. Easily 'repairable'.
If you want 'mega-yacht' or private aircraft ultra-quality finish ... you can 'flat sand' and 'handrub' for a 'glass-like' finish (will extend the service life of the coating with less maintenance coats). Dont use on 'exotic woods', just teak. Handrubbing - wet bare hand loaded with a small amount of "Perfect-it" will generate the HEAT that will make the surface wood cells become 'glowingly and dazzling iridescent' --- a LOT of 'work'. This is what the word 'finishing' is all about; sloping on paint or varnish isnt 'finishing'.
EXPENSIVE and has a 'high learning curve
' ... but when you amortize the cost over the 8-10+ years it comes out to be the most economical and least amount of 'work'.
I own a 'teakey' that is 'slathered' in brightwork. Am a reformed 'varnish-aholic'. I Have used Cetol, Bristol, ... nothing comes close to HT for 'long lasting' and looking like 'varnish'.
9 yr. old HT job with 'maintenance coat' every 2 yrs.
flat sanded with 600-1000 grit, then power-buffed with 3M knobby foam pad and 3M "Perfect-It"