J24 Bilge Cracks - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 32 Old 11-17-2011
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Hull 33 and Hull 2998 which is killing at the worlds RIGHT now

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

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1981 J24 Tangent 2930
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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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post #12 of 32 Old 11-17-2011 Thread Starter
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First pics were from the 83. This is from the 79. It looks like concrete- jabbed it with a phillips and it felt like concrete too.

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post #13 of 32 Old 11-17-2011
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You are much better off with the V2 J24 (post 1980)as between the old sump which has ZERO bilge water capacity and the old style deck and cabin top hatch which leak badly to fill the non existent bilge

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

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1981 J24 Tangent 2930
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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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post #14 of 32 Old 11-17-2011
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mnky, you might want to call j/boats. They're exceptional at customer service and they will probably tell you to email the pics to them and reply with specifics.
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post #15 of 32 Old 11-18-2011
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Google: "J24 sailboat sinking" just for fun.
Maker sure the companion way hatch and cockpit lockers can be closed tight.

"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

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post #16 of 32 Old 12-12-2011
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MNKY what did you end up doing? I just got a 79 and my sump looks exactly the same. When I empty out the water it just slowly fills back up. I assume there is water in the cracks of the material. Is this a form of vermiculite? I'd like to remove it if it will become a problem. Does the hard material extend around the cabin sole or is it just around the keel bolts?
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post #17 of 32 Old 12-12-2011
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The pics are almost definitely from the '79 - (I still own & race an early 79 hull that I bought new...). I believe they stopped using the vermiculite between hull #1650 and #1900. Replacing the vermiculite is not an onerous task if you're reasonably handy. Even I was able to do it. The most important thing is to glass in the replacement floor beams that Waterline can probably supply. Once done, the boat will be drier, and the all-up weight more consistent. The water seepage referred to is simply moisture slowly draining from the vermiculite that is under the fiberglass cabin sole. Description of the whole repair can be found on the class website, which is a treasure trove of info all things J24: www.j24class.org, and wander around.

Folks seem to love bashing the J24. Jealous of success?? No boat is perfect, and we've got a class with very competitive racing, and great people. Disregard the comments about "lightly built". It's a race boat, not a blue water cruiser. Properly maintained, they are still solid and competitive after 30 years. And a great source of fun.
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post #18 of 32 Old 12-12-2011
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Thanks. I understand the job and the reasons for fixing.

When you did you job did you cut out the cabin sole? Or did you only have to replace the verm in the sump? I assume cutting open the deck to check would be worth the effort anyways. I got this boat for $900 a few weeks ago, its in really pretty nice shape. Solid deck and hull, no wet spots, but the verm job has to be done it seems. I called waterline left a few messages about getting the kit sans the teak&holly FB. I assume to just get marine plywood for the new floor. If you wouldn't mind:

How far back does the verm go on the 79?

If its still rock hard all around with just some cracks should I still replace?

Do you have pictures of your sump on the 79 I can see for reference? stringers, sump, lip for deck sole.

Thanks for your reply.
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post #19 of 32 Old 12-12-2011
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" Disregard the comments about "lightly built". "
I'd vehemently disagree with that. Years ago I called J/Boats with a technical question and had the luck to actually get one of the J. Brothers on the phone. Yes, they value customer input and satisfaction enough so that "THE" man would pick up the phone to talk to customers.
And he was the one who said, right up front, that they are lightly built. After all, a racing boat has to be fast and in order to be fast you have to be light! This is a GOOD THING not a criticism of the boat. If you want a boat to beat on 24x7x365, get a Pearson26, it is much harder to wear out the boat. Take a J/24 and jump from the dock into the cockpit every day--and you'll spider crack the gelcoat because the boat is going to flex under it every time you land. And that's not a defect, that's just called keeping the boat light.
You wouldn't take an E-type Jag bushwhacking across the Rockies, that doesn't mean it isn't adequately built--for what it was intended for. Same same with a J/24, perfectly adequate boat, and yes, LIGHTLY BUILT on purpose.
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post #20 of 32 Old 12-12-2011
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papas:
Welcome to the class!!!

The verm goes at least as far aft as the leading edge of the cooler. And you want to take all of it out at least that far, because it will all be wanting to absorb water with each little crack. Should you ever want to (god forbid) sell it, or (better) race it seriously, you'll want to get 90% of the vermiculite out. Otherwise it's still there to absorb water, which equals weight. Even if you think it's rock-hard, do the job once and do it right. We left about a one inch lip on the floor molding to support the new sole. The teak and holly sole is pretty, but marine ply would also be ok, as long as you coat both sides and edges w/ epoxy.

Two caveats:
a) Really important to obtain and properly glass in the new f/glass floors, for lateral stiffness and proper keel support. The old verm helped fill that function.
b) You will want to get the boat measured/reweighed by a class measurer after done. It helps the value of the boat, in addition to being class legal. Even if you have to add corrector weights, it's worth it. Class website can help you locate a measurer near you.

I'd be happy to take pictures, but the boat is all wrapped up for the winter. I suspect that there may pics on the class website, don't know.

Hello:: I'm not sure if you're vehemently agreeing w/ me or vehemently disagreeing. Whatever. The boats are appropriately built for a mid/late 70's race boat given the state of boat building at that time, for better or worse. Their strengths and weaknesses are very well known and documented. I talked with Rod 30 years ago, and I've talked to Rod and Jeff within the last 2 years, as well as the Waterline (current builders) people. The boats are what they are, and we have a lot of fun with them. And yes, I've sailed old Pearson 26's. All old boats have issues....
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