Join Date: Mar 2004
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Welcome to the class!!!
The verm goes at least as far aft as the leading edge of the cooler. And you want to take all of it out at least that far, because it will all be wanting to absorb water with each little crack. Should you ever want to (god forbid) sell it, or (better) race it seriously, you'll want to get 90% of the vermiculite out. Otherwise it's still there to absorb water, which equals weight. Even if you think it's rock-hard, do the job once and do it right. We left about a one inch lip on the floor molding to support the new sole. The teak and holly sole is pretty, but marine ply would also be ok, as long as you coat both sides and edges w/ epoxy.
a) Really important to obtain and properly glass in the new f/glass floors, for lateral stiffness and proper keel support. The old verm helped fill that function.
b) You will want to get the boat measured/reweighed by a class measurer after done. It helps the value of the boat, in addition to being class legal. Even if you have to add corrector weights, it's worth it. Class website can help you locate a measurer near you.
I'd be happy to take pictures, but the boat is all wrapped up for the winter. I suspect that there may pics on the class website, don't know.
Hello:: I'm not sure if you're vehemently agreeing w/ me or vehemently disagreeing. Whatever. The boats are appropriately built for a mid/late 70's race boat given the state of boat building at that time, for better or worse. Their strengths and weaknesses are very well known and documented. I talked with Rod 30 years ago, and I've talked to Rod and Jeff within the last 2 years, as well as the Waterline (current builders) people. The boats are what they are, and we have a lot of fun with them. And yes, I've sailed old Pearson 26's. All old boats have issues....