Join Date: Dec 2002
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Lewmar opening port leak
Almost any good hardware or tool store (including Sears, Home Depot, etc) will have damaged screw removal tools. They are (more or less) matched to the fastener size, and work pretty well.
Always use a penetrating lubricant prior to removing difficult fasteners (If it doesn’t budge under moderate hand torque - it’s “difficult”). I’d even use a lube’ with the (above) screw remover, but try to keep the (damaged) socket dry. There’s a million lubricants, including the ubiquitous WD-40, Kerosene ...
I’m surprised to hear that your hatch was only secured with four bolts (at/near corners, I presume?). I’d prefer to see the frame bolted on approximately 4" centres all round the perimeter. This helps prevent warping of the frame, where (at some places) the frame mates hard to the deck, and at others rises proud, leaving possible gaps. The bolts will (at first) only be moderately tightened, so that you don’t extrude all the bedding out, then finally tightened when bedding is fully cured (usually 2 - 7 days, depending). Sometimes, depending upon the deck camber, you need to install temporary shims between deck & frame. In the end, you want the frame to be seated on the flexible sealant, not hard to the deck.
I don''t think that the drive type is too significant, though I do prefer Torx or Robertson (square or Hatteras), or Hex (Allen) drives to Phillips (star), and NEVER use slot. Of course, you MUST match the profile & size. If you really want to match the original equipment, try a "Fastening House".