Repairing core moisture

ughmo2000 · #1 (**permalink**) 09-29-2003

Time to begin my maintenance education.

Looking at a nice boat with a balsa cored deck that has "moisture" but no delaminating in a small area, port of the deck stepped mast. Apparently entering thru a couple deck fittings. How does one "dry" this and how big/ugly a job is it?

Thanks folks!

Cliff

jbarros · #2 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003

BIG.

One can''t realy (to my knowledge) DRY the moisture (which means rot/mildew)

Rip up that section of deck, cut out the bad section of core, recore, reglass. of course with the first generation of glass boats just now becoming dirt cheap, there are a decent quantity of 20something kids who bought their first boat and learned to fix it, including this, and who now liveaboard and will do boat work cheap. Maybe find one of them to do it for you?

Next question. What other fittings are drilled through core material, instead of core cut back and glassed over? Which is to say, what OTHER areas of the deck are going to be rotting in 5 years? Doing it right is a major project.

small example: http://www.sndi.net/seafarer31/deck&recoring.htm

Note: for my money, I''d recore with a mildew resistant synthetic core, but thats me. Other people with alot more experience than me will disagree (or agree, ask 2 people, get 5 opinions.)

-- James

ughmo2000 · #3 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003

Thanks James,

I found a Sailnet article describing the procedure of "routing out" between the glass, injecting new epoxy, re-drilling, etc, for small areas, but the "moisture" I''m concerned about is noted as, "Deck -core, wet/moist around shroud chainplates, remove/rebed chain plates."

More important, "Deckhouse roof section port of mast step, wet core in 24"X20" area, rebed deckhouse sheave fittings from mast step halyards."

Readings were done by a reputable surveyor, (not my survey, was given to me) with a moisture meter. The report further states no delamination.

Should I be looking for another boat? The price isn''t bad. On the lower/middle price range for boats of this type.

Thanks again James. I''m at the beginning of a long educational process!

sailingfool · #4 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003

I''d say get a quote from an experienced fg repair person, including the cost of hiding the repair, and tell the seller you want him/her to pay for it - settle for half the expense IF you think the boat still worth it.

The problem with trying to do repairs will this yourself is, assuming the boat currently looks original, is it''s hard to close up the repair so it does not stand out. Back when we were buying, we looked at a Sabre 34 which had an attractive price - as we stood on the boat, we recognized that the cabintop non-skid had been redone, probably due to a core repair - apparently professionally done, but the result was a slightly different shade from the original, so it was onto the next boat for us. I would say that repair, although proper and effective, probably reduces the value of the boat $5-8K.
Perhaps that''s why the owner is hoping somebody else will deal with it, and take the hit...

ughmo2000 · #5 (**permalink**) 09-30-2003

Thanks Guys for your help.

Alas it''s all for naught....

Seller refuses to reduce price, help make, or make repairs. Too bad, it was a nice little boat.

Down the road I go!

mcain · #6 (**permalink**) 10-01-2003

You just dodged the silver bullet. Congrats.
M.

ughmo2000 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-01-2003

Yep, looks that way.

Well folks, back to square one! Anyone know of any Lake Michigan 28-30'' cruising boats between around 20K for sale?

Cliff

sailingfool · #8 (**permalink**) 10-01-2003

Check out Tartan 30s and C&C 30s - lots of performance and quality for the money. Here''s one that I think is on the right lake:
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_full_detail.jsp?slim=quick&boat_id=1113889 &units=Feet&currency=USD&access=Public&listing_id= 12544&url=