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  #21  
Old 12-14-2011
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I agree the connections should be covered with adhesive heatshrink. The wires on all float switches are long enough that they can and should be led as high as the space allows to keep them as dry as possible as well.
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  #22  
Old 03-25-2012
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Re: Bilge Pump Float Switch

Now for the update.
After the expense and fun of installing the new switch, I'm pretty sure the old switch was just gummed up with bilge grime. It's soaking in soapy water now, if that works I will have a good spare.
The moral of this story is that it pays to remove a "broken" part before replacing it.
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Old 04-04-2013
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Re: Bilge Pump Float Switch

Our bilge pump float switch is sticking and not floating reliably. We store the boat in the water in winter and get water into the bilge through the mast (keel stepped). I am thinking we can just try to clean the switch and see if that solves the problem but can you tell me what is involved in replacing it? The skipper thinks that a new switch comes with the wires that have to be replaced along with the switch and is worried about making watertight connections. Thanks!
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Old 04-04-2013
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Re: Bilge Pump Float Switch

All I can add is those who turn their pumps off or do not believe in float switches are job security for me :-)
I do several insurance claims every year on partially flooded boats where the battery was left dead, off or the pump was turned off. That is the real problem not sinking's but partial flooding causing damage to engines systems and interior wood work.

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Old 04-04-2013
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Re: Bilge Pump Float Switch

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Originally Posted by needsanap View Post
...can you tell me what is involved in replacing it? The skipper thinks that a new switch comes with the wires that have to be replaced along with the switch and is worried about making watertight connections. Thanks!
Float switches come with a few feet of tinned wire attached. Properly crimped butt connectors w/heat shrink or separate heat shrink over the join will keep the water out.
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