How to replace teak trim?? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-10-2011 Thread Starter
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How to replace teak trim??

Hey everyone, we're back with another question. After doing some cleaning on our boat the other day we found the teak trim running along the top of the hull to be rotted. Removing it was difficult, as it was sensitive, and the piece running along the starboard side was broken when we forgot to remove a screw. We know we needed to replace it before the break, so it's not a matter of trying to fix the broken piece. Our question is (and bare with us because we're sailboat dumb), where do we go about getting replacement pieces? Our boat is a 17' Hurley Silhouette, and the teak that was on it is definitely original. I would love to know of a "no-maintenance" product we could just apply and forget about, but we're not ruling out the wood as it adds a nice detail. Any help you can give is appreciated. Pictures below are a bit blurry, but show the sad condition of the teak and the break. Thanks everyone!
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post #2 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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I'm bettin' replacement pieces don't exist. Most folks would just get a piece of teak, cut it to the right dimensions on a table saw, router the corners and install. I don't know of an instant solution.

As far as a no maintenance solution, maybe Star Board, but I wonder if it cost more than teak, and the appearance probably wouldn't be as good in your application.

Bottom line is, you're looking a fabricating teak. As woodworking projects go, your's appears pretty simple.
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post #3 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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If you want low or no maintenance consider something like: Quality Boat Deck and Outdoor Plastic Furniture Products | PlasTEAK Inc.
I've never used it but it has to be easier to work with then real Teak.

We have a teak toe/cap rail all around our 27' sailboat and we do what Siamese mentions above. Teak is not cheap.

It is hard to tell from your pics how bad the condition of your teak strips is. A cracked piece can be epoxied back together and they do sell teak 'conditioners' to help restore old pieces that are not expensive. I've had some luck with the 1 and 2 part teak cleaners.

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post #4 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siamese View Post
Bottom line is, you're looking a fabricating teak. As woodworking projects go, your's appears pretty simple.
Agreed and a steamer box or tube is simple & fairly cheap to fab, that way you can steam the piece prior to installation

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post #5 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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Ask at a wood supply place about purple heart. it's easy to work, cheaper than teak and screams Lookatme. In Canada,Windsor Plywood is a great source and I'd bet there are great local grown woods in your area ,ie several types of locust and cypress.
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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Somone mentioned that teak 'is not cheap' - I would go beyond this and say that it is incredibly expensive. Mind an alternative wood or go with something like Starboard. Look at the website for a company like Jamestown Distributors, they should list all of the sizes of Starboard. See how big a piece you would need to cut replacements for the teak (use the teak pieces as a pattern. Won't look at good, but no maintenance.

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post #7 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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For Pete's sakes, you are not redesigning a piano here. Get a couple of strips of suitable wood ,shape them, and stick em on.
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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Why do you feel that the teak is rotted? I ask because teak is rot resistant and in 40 years have never seen a truly rotted piece. Very dirty and battered, but not rotted. Usually, all it takes is a scrubbing and sanding to clean it up.

Yes, teak is quite expensive when purchased in finished form, but it's reasonably priced (as exotics go) when bought rough. Definitely do not buy it from West Marine; prices are insane. ML Condon has teak. eBay has some good deals.

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post #9 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopdeckpappy View Post
Agreed and a steamer box or tube is simple & fairly cheap to fab, that way you can steam the piece prior to installation
Pappy, I've always understood that teak is not steamable but in the last issue of Practical Boatowner there was an article about steaming teak decking to pre-bend it. In the article they said the conventional wisdom was bunk.

Apparently you agree - can you provide more info on it? Do you have to steam it hotter or longer than other woods like oak or anything else? Or is the old idea just that - bunk and you simply steam it like anything else?

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-10-2011
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Sloop I really wasn't aware that teak was unsteamable, I've steamed white oak, mahogony, cherry and teak, I've been using a wagner wallpaper steamer and a 8" dia pvc tube about 6' long,( very portable and easy to stow ) the tube has 3/8th dowels though it about every foot for a material rest and the tube has a vent hole to vent and drain at the lower bottom ( ya gotta keep a slight angle on the tube to drain ) also, you would the drain hole large enough to have a easy & steady flow of steam, not a jet steam

As far as temp and time? temp is around 200 degs; most steamer don't go any higher as theres' no need, time varies around 1-1.5 plus hrs depending on material.
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