Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine... - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 12-15-2011
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Originally Posted by tdw View Post
My point is that MedSailor is planning on a long tem cruise not simply a weekend here or there.
Yes I probably should, and will, end up with a massive lofrans or similar setup. I do like your suggestion of finding one where the motor can be removed without too much hassle. That should help allay my fears of it seizing. Even though it'll likely be money well spent the huge expense of a windlass is hard to swallow, especially when there could be a cheaper option lurking....

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We actually managed to hook onto a sunken trawler once. The part of the things bridge that came to the surface and had to be cut away from our anchor weighed well over a 100lbs. Without our lovingly repaired windlass I would never have got the thing to the surface and would have either been forced to cut the chain or stay hooked on and dive or get a diver to go down. Our windlass was able to bring it to the surface and hold it in place while I cut away the debris with bolt cutters.
WOW. Which windlass was that? What sizing algorithm did you use??

Medsailor

PS Any info on average depth of anchorages in OZ?
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedSailor View Post
Yes I probably should, and will, end up with a massive lofrans or similar setup. I do like your suggestion of finding one where the motor can be removed without too much hassle. That should help allay my fears of it seizing. Even though it'll likely be money well spent the huge expense of a windlass is hard to swallow, especially when there could be a cheaper option lurking....



WOW. Which windlass was that? What sizing algorithm did you use??

Medsailor

PS Any info on average depth of anchorages in OZ?
Med,
Sizing Algorrithm ? Wow. I have no idea what that actually means.

The windlass was (is) a Muir Cub. Muir themselves reckon it is undersized for that boat (the old girl) but once I had rebuilt it, it performed faultlessly. By the time we had the piece of the trawler just below the surface the windlass was straining but it did the job. Pulled the bow done about 12'' from memory, this on a 34' steel sloop around 7t. I was impressed.

Anchorages in Oz will vary a great deal. StAnna would have more info for up north than I would but the deepest water I have anchored in was 25metres and that was unusual. It was of course here that the Muir gave up the ghost and I had to haul in 35 metres of chain (plus line and anchor of course). On that occasion the gearbox had completely stripped itself but the motor was still OK so I had a bit of help. Later, having replaced the gearbox, the motor also died and then I used sheet winch which worked but was slow and tedious. Overall I should have heeded Muir's advice and simple bought a new one but to their credit they still helped with the rebuild.

Ref the seizing, i still think it is more likely that an electrical motor when burnt out would still spin and that a seizing problem would be more gears or shaft related. (I could be wrong of course).
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Old 12-19-2011
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How many pound feet per minute is one and a third horsepower? Do you figure that would be enough power to pull 500 lbs of chain from a deep water drop in a reasonable time, say 5 min at a manageable speed? They're not called wild cats for nothing .(hint 550 per min=1 hp)Anything left over could be helpful with sunken logs, boomchains and just stuff.
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Old 12-19-2011
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.(hint 550 per min=1 hp)
Can you elaborate on the hint? How did you transpose HP to feet per minute? Wouldn't tbe speed be dictated by rotation speed of the motor and gearing?

Medsailor
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Old 12-20-2011
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excuse me, but 1 hp is 33,00 ft/lbs per minute. a larger than average horse can lift a 330 lb weight 100 feet in about one minute....therefore 1 hp.

550 is the amount of work done in one second....33000/60....

just so we are all on the same page here....
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Sorry wolf. It appears I've forgot more grade10 physics than I thought . think of it as an elder moment.I should have reread what I mumbled.
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not a problem, it will be my turn next....
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Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

Here's a Product;
A full-time cruising boat has need of occasional extra muscle, but since flogging is illegal, having slave crew is a bit fussy nowadays. Wouldn't it be great to flog the rowers to shore, drum the anchor crew 3 times in a stormy night's poor anchorage, or send 'em to shore to haul fresh water!?
Enter technology;
A modern substitute might be a portable power head, maybe based on the Robin 50cc engine, which you would temporarily clamp onto your manual windlass via chain drive. Then to your Outboard's lower unit, or to your CAT Pump water-maker. One chunk of small engine for all three jobs of Windlass, outboard, and watermaker. Plus more, i'm sure.... on a smaller Cruiser, such a modular system could save much space & weight. Crazy or Brilliant?
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Old 08-13-2014
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Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

Can you guarantee it's going to start? If not, a lot of stuff is ballast.
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Old 08-13-2014
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Re: Converting my manual windlass to electric! The math is giving me a migraine...

I believe your fears on this one are groundless. Our old Tigress windlass was over 30 years old when we replaced it, and operating flawlessly when we did so, electrically. Unfortunately the legs had corroded off it and it was no longer secured well to the deck.
If you buy a quality windless it should last over 30 years, and longer if you wash the salt off and cover it. A new Tigress (a good size for your boat and an easy install) can be had for around $1500 complete. Do not buy a vertical as they are a difficult install compared to a horizontal windlass and less reliable. Though every electric windlass does have a manual back up, in many instances your gene sheet winches might be a better solution to an electrical failure, anyway.
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