Head replacement issue - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 12-15-2011
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Head replacement issue

I am trying to replace the head. I am finding that I cannot get the hoses to bend into the contorted shapes required to get to the fittings. The new head is in a positions just a little closer to the holding tank, and the outlet at a little more obtuse angle, and the hose new hose is a lot stiffer. Is there a curved fitting available for 1 1/2" hose that will not cause (much) blockage, or odor? Cutting larger holes in the bulkhead between the head and holding tank will help, but it is still pretty tortuous.
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Old 12-15-2011
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I found an electric hair dryer a useful tool for warming up the hose for bends and getting them on fittings. Can you install the hose on the head while it's loose and then push the head up against the bulkhead and bolt it down?
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Old 12-15-2011
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Which hose are you using?
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Old 12-15-2011
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Not All Hoses Are Equal

Some are stiff as pipe, and the cold doesn't help at all. If it is PVC hose (white) you may either need a heated work area or to wait until summer.

I've worked with a bunch of sanitation hose types--5 on my boat as part of a review--and I've posted some of the lessons learned:
Sail Delmarva: The Easy Button
The full article, focusing on long-term durability with sewage exposure, will be out soon.

If you somehow manage to bend the hose to reach the required spots, there are a few things to consider:
* The hose may simply kink. Maybe not right now, maybe in a few weeks. Don't force it.
* If it is tight going to the bottom of a Jabsco head, good luck changing the joker valve in the future. You may get it on, but you will play hell getting it to seal if there is much bind. I don't know about other models.
* As for heating the ends of PVC hose to get them on fittings, I had the best luck with dunking them in a pot of boiling water for 20-30 seconds. But I basically dislike the PVC hoses; I only use it for vents, since it's generally all that's available in 5/8" and 3/4".

You can use PVC fittings. Sea/Land and others make sanitation hose specific fittings. They will never permiate and plugging is not a problem; that always happens in the joker valve, as it is much smaller.

Before I considered cutting holes I would try a more flexible hose. Raritan Sanigard is quite flexible, and any of the rubber sanitation hoses are easier to work with than the white PVC hoses.

Good luck!
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Old 12-15-2011
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Quote:
Which hose are you using?
The stuff is at the boat right now. I think it was either OdorSafe Plus, or XDH Sanitation hose. I see on Defender.com the OdorSafe plus is more flexible (and more expensive). Also that there is a 90 degree elbow for 1 1/2 inch hose available. The elbow would probably cause blockages. Would be better if it was a sweep.

The hair dryer is a good idea, I'll try that.
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you can boil a big pot of water and stick the hose in it for a few seconds before playing with it. Softens it right up
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GREETINGS EARTHLINGS Get the fittings hot this helps greatly pour hot water over the fittings as well as putting the end into boiling water I use gloves when handling hot pipes and it can give better grip GO SAFE
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knothead has a spectacular aura about knothead has a spectacular aura about knothead has a spectacular aura about
composting toilet report

I switched to composting about two years ago and would never go back. You wouldn't believe all the stuff I was able to remove from the boat. And the best part is that there is never a whiff of odor.

But I know what you are thinking.
Have fun with your hoses, pumps, y-valves, macerators, etc. etc.
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Old 12-15-2011
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I too switched to a composting head and have been nothing but glad since I did. Gained lots of room, removed tons of smelly hoses, holding tanks etc and have no functioning thru hulls for the two heads on the boat.
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Old 12-15-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sck5 View Post
you can boil a big pot of water and stick the hose in it for a few seconds before playing with it. Softens it right up
If you have a thermometer, approx. 180° is the lower limit of the 'softening point' for most PVC, etc. However, you can try to 'form' it at much lower temps if a bit of force is used.
Dont burn yourself with such 'hot' hose - thick gloves are needed.
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