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post #1 of 4 Old 02-25-2001 Thread Starter
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Raw Water in Engine

I think I really screwed up. This winter I went to the marina one day to start up my Universal M-25 to charge the batteries (no shore power). I picked a particularly cold day and was unsuccessful. Here is the boneheaded part. I failed to drain the waterlift muffler. When I went to the boat this weekend, I had copious amount of oil in the bilge and raw water in the oil pan. It appears that the water backed into the engine from the muffler and displaced the oil. I have since cleaned the bilge and replaced the oil. I was going to run the engine for a few minutes and then againchange the oil. The problem is that the engine won''t turn over. I don''t believe it is a battery or starter issue. I feels like the engine is locked up. BIG PROBLEM. Does anyone know if the engine can be salvaged, If so, what kind of money are we talking about? If not, any idea what a new M-25 or comparable costs?
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post #2 of 4 Old 02-25-2001
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Raw Water in Engine

I used Interprotect 2000 23 years ago. Didnt have too many blisters but some on C&C 32 1984. I carved all I could see after stripping 10 years of bottom paint off with paint stripper formulated for fiberglass. Put on 3 coats of interprotect and then VC 17. Boat is in freshwater so I only reapply bottom paint where needed. If you race I would suggest four coats of interprotect and then sand smooth as interprotect is not very smooth.
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post #3 of 4 Old 02-25-2001
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Raw Water in Engine

Sounds like the pistons rings may be rusted/frozen to the cylinder walls and piston grooves. Not a BIG disaster if you can act quickly - winter temperatures are on your side with respect to internal corrosion and rusting.
1.Suggest you consider to flood the crankcase, upper cylinders/combustion chambers and intake manifold with Marvel Mystery Oil. Remove the injectors and squirt in enough Marvel Oil to completely cover the piston tops. First completely drain the engine of all remaining water and old oil, then add the Marvel oil to the proper ''dipstick'' level. With the injectors removed, hand crank (ONLY) the engine to get the rings free. You may have to rock the crankshaft back and forth quite a few times to get the rings loose. Dont force it... and if still stuck... add more Marvel and wait a few days more, etc. Keep adding Marvel and attempting to hand crank the engine. Get a heater into the engine compartment and let the engine soak in the heat - to melt any ice inside the engine, etc.
With persistance, It should finally break free. Once free, hand crank the engine many times to help free the piston rings, etc. THEN you can spin a few times with the starter.
2. Once free and with the injectors out and the fuel supply shut off, take a suction dip tube and remove all excess Marvel oil from the combustion chamber (so the engine doesn''t "run away" -to infinite rpm when you finally start - have a rag handy to jam into the intake manifold opening if it attempts to explosively run at super high rpm because of all the oil inside.) drain the Marvel Oil to the proper dipstick operating level and start the engine, let run at idle WITH NO LOAD and slowly, very slowly, increase the speed until you can get 1/2 to 3/4 full rpm - keep that rag handy !!!!!!!! to stop an over rev-ing engine. This will re-polish the cylinder walls and piston ring grooves; but, if there was rust obviously there will be some (hopefully little) corrosion damage. Run until the engine is at normal operating temp. Shut down the engine and drain/change the Marvel Oil to 3/4 regular oil and 1/4 Marvel. Run the engine normally but ''gently'' - not at full load for a while. After a while (weeks) of running and normal operation load, perform a compression check (and an air-injection check of the combustion chamber) to verify that all piston rings, etc. are free in their grooves and not broken.
Lets hope that the reason you''re seized is ice and not too much rust.
You can special order the Marvel OIL in gallon containers at most auto parts supply houses.
Patience and ***not Forcing*** the engine to turn is the KEY. If you FORCE it, you will most certainly break the piston rings. a little force is OK just not a LOT of force. If you are persistent and unhurried, you can get your engine spinning again like new.
Hope this help.
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post #4 of 4 Old 02-25-2001 Thread Starter
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Raw Water in Engine

Thanks for the help. I forgot to tell you that the boat is located on the Gulf Coast. No chance of freeze. I''ll give you plan a try.
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