1975 Tartan 30-C Resto

[arf145]

The starting issue sounds like not enough current getting through the starter. I'm thinking there's a bunch of resistance in there--at a bad connection or too small wire.

[Faster]

Originally Posted by arf145

The starting issue sounds like not enough current getting through the starter. I'm thinking there's a bunch of resistance in there--at a bad connection or too small wire.

An effective fix can be adding a relay/solenoid where the input coil is activated by the control panel switch circuit, and the load contacts are between the battery and the starter on a short, large gauge wire run. That way the starter gets full voltage, not the reduced power from having the circuit run the distance to the panel and back on smallish wires.

[BubbleheadMd]

What is different about the "C" variant?

[Plumbean]

Originally Posted by 75Tartan30

... Just finished prepping the aluminum piece on the bow(not sure of the name of this piece...anyone?)

I think "stem-head fitting" is the correct terminology, but I await correction from those more knowledgeable ...

[CalebD]

Originally Posted by BubbleheadMd

What is different about the "C" variant?

Good question Bubbles.
Sailboatdata.com tells about some of the 'variant' models on the T 30 page (see the notes at the bottom): TARTAN 30 sailboat on sailboatdata.com
Interestingly, they also have an entry for the 'Tartan 3000 CB' but I've never seen a T30 that had a 'center board' (just the older T27, 34 and 37 models have center board models). Just because I've never seen one doesn't mean all that much! Besides the T 3000 is not really a T30 afaik.
I guess I don't really have a good answer for you. Perhaps the OP will shed some light on the "C" in the Tartan 30C.

[T37SOLARE]

The "C" denotes it's the competition model, the rig is 3' taller with a deeper keel & 500 additional pounds of ballast.

About the T30 | Chesapeake Tartan 30 Association

That is one great looking T30, congrats!

[BubbleheadMd]

Ah, excellent! That'll be a real asset on light-air days.

[ccriders]

Hi 75TARTAN30,
What is the condition of the luff groove? Is it painted? How will you prep and finish it?
John

[75Tartan30]

Originally Posted by ccriders

Hi 75TARTAN30,
What is the condition of the luff groove? Is it painted? How will you prep and finish it?
John

The luff grove was painted previously. I will probably need to strip it with a wire wheel to get into the grove. As far as painting I will use the Interlux system with a few coat of primecoat and 3 coats of color. I will also roll and tip instead of spraying.

[Sanduskysailor]

Since you are going to race it and cruise, a couple of observations and tips: 1. The wheel steering is likely an owner added item. The competition models were all tiller models from the factory 2. The prop comes out of the aft section of the keel. While its out of the water rotate it until it is vertical and hidden behind the keel- go inside the boat and mark the coupling with some red paint so that you can lock it in position when sailing. 3 A lot of T-30 owners who race have put fairing strips on the skeg forward of the rudder. They rout out a slot on the skeg and and attach flexible plastic strips that cover the gap between the rudder and skeg. The attached pic without rudder shows the strips. 4. Most 30c's have a baby stay to keep the mast from pumping. Hopefully you have one. Most have retrofitted the baby stay with a block and tackle arrangement to make them adjustable.

Good luck with your boat. The T30C is a classic. They sail better than their rating in anything over 10 knots and they reach like crazy.