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-   -   Rub Rail Replacement (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/82645-rub-rail-replacement.html)

ahalfon 01-12-2012 05:28 PM

Rub Rail Replacement
 
The rub rail on my 1986 Pearson 28-2 has become brittle over the years and a couple of of feet have chipped off after encountering some overly aggressive docks..

It's clear that it needs replacement at this point, but before undertaking this massive project, I'm wondering if using an aluminum rub rail might be a better option than sticking to the original PVC-like material (which would also mean doing away with the teak toe rail).
As always, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
TIA,

Amir

sawingknots 01-12-2012 07:38 PM

the rub rail on my 1980 py26 was in about the same shape,i replaced it with the plastic [or what ever it is] it has a base and a insert,that was about 6 years ago and still looks great

ahalfon 01-14-2012 12:18 PM

Where did you buy it from?
Thanks,

Amir

Squidd 01-14-2012 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawingknots (Post 816028)
the rub rail on my 1980 py26 was in about the same shape,i replaced it with the plastic [or what ever it is] it has a base and a insert,that was about 6 years ago and still looks great

My rub rail is wood, which has rotted out, and I'm replacing with wood...

I take it mine's not original...?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../th_687306.jpg

sawingknots 01-17-2012 08:10 PM

i can't really see in your pic,but yeah i'm stongly guessing that your wasn't original,fortionately i live in an area where theres lots of ski boat manufacters and a friend of mine bought one of their abandoned buildings with lots of boat stuff left behind,the rub rail was identical to my old ragged one,i've heard thet a replacement can be bought for about $200

Waltthesalt 01-17-2012 10:38 PM

i've got the same job on a Cal 29. It doesn't appear all that difficult. Take off the old rub rail, involves some screws. Fill old screw holes. Put on some silicon sealant. Put on the rubrail. reinstall the screws. There are suppliers for flexible vinyl that fit specific boats. I think going annother route would be more work

sawingknots 01-17-2012 11:04 PM

exactly!the new rubrail base came in 20ft sections with predrilled holes,i just sealed up the origional screw holes and used a small drill to put in the new screws,warmed the new base slightly and used a heat gun on the corners,the insert came rolled up and was long enough to go all the way around with extra,one time it got slightly scratched on a concrete wall and i removed it with fine sandpaper,i've saw lots of boats with the same rubrail so i imagine it can be found pretty easily

Squidd 01-17-2012 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawingknots (Post 817991)
i can't really see in your pic,but yeah i'm stongly guessing that your wasn't original,fortionately i live in an area where theres lots of ski boat manufacters and a friend of mine bought one of their abandoned buildings with lots of boat stuff left behind,the rub rail was identical to my old ragged one,i've heard thet a replacement can be bought for about $200

Ouch... For $200 I'll do it all in wood (Cumaru), do the hand rails on the deck and still have $125 in my pocket...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...idd/th_013.jpg

(if you click on the pics they get bigger...then if you click on them again they get bigger yet)

sawingknots 01-17-2012 11:37 PM

i'm not positive about the $200 but i'd rather not have anymore wood topside to keep refinishing than necessary,wood looks really good for one maybe two years,the handrail, tiller and hatch way frame is plenty,if my handrail wasn't in good shape i'd replace it with stainless

Squidd 01-17-2012 11:57 PM

I hear that... but I'm an old carpenter living in a log cabin..in the great northwoods....

I'm kinda partial to wood and wood working...

Besides, I can put mine on a trailer, haul it home and put it in the barn to work on it during the long cold winters...


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