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  #21  
Old 01-26-2012
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Pink metal/stuffing box

Quote:
Originally Posted by L124C View Post
I know that generally pink is not good when it comes to metal. Is the pink on this stuffing box (forward edge) something to worry about?
A lot of good advice here.

The cost of a new stuffing box is minimal compared to the failure of the pink one.

Plus, what kind of wear damage did it make on the prop shaft. A good inspection should be made on the shaft.

Some people in forums have mentioned that they measured the current in the waster and not finding any and still have corriosion on their anode.

Bill
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Old 01-26-2012
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Pink metal/stuffing box

Quote:
Originally Posted by L124C View Post
I know that generally pink is not good when it comes to metal. Is the pink on this stuffing box (forward edge) something to worry about?
A lot of good advice here.

The cost of a new stuffing box is minimal compared to the failure of the pink one.

Plus, what kind of wear damage did it make on the prop shaft. A good inspection should be made on the shaft.

Some people in forums have mentioned that they measured the current in the waster and not finding any and still have corriosion on their anode. I keep my boat on a mooring so I have never encountered that problem.

Bill


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  #23  
Old 01-27-2012
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I've been brushing up on Bonding, wondering how you bond an object on a rotating shaft (use one VERY LONG wire?). It occurred to me, isn't the stuffing box bonded to the anodes in the raw water cooled motor via the drive shaft? Should I put a zinc on the shaft next to the new stuffing box??? Obviously the concept of electrolysis is a little elusive to me!

Last edited by L124C; 01-27-2012 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 01-27-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L124C View Post
I've been brushing up on Bonding, wondering how you bond an object on a rotating shaft (use one VERY LONG wire?). It occurred to me, isn't the stuffing box bonded to the anodes in the raw water cooled motor via the drive shaft? Should I put a zinc on the shaft next to the new stuffing box??? Obviously the concept of electrolysis is a little elusive to me!
Yes you put a zinc on the outside between the wheel (prop) and the bearing. You also need to add a shaft brush (WM has them) to bond it to the bonding circuit. There also needs to be a wire from the bonding circuit to one of the nuts holding the stuffing box. Good Luck.
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Old 01-27-2012
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I went dockside for a winter engine swap and lost my prop to the steel house boat next door.Probably a wiring issue but annoying anyway. Bonding wire, with soldered joints and ends, connect shaft brush and stuffing inside to outside,thru bolt, to zincs on cutlass and rudder stock.
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Old 01-27-2012
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Originally Posted by sea_hunter View Post
Yes you put a zinc on the outside between the wheel (prop) and the bearing. You also need to add a shaft brush (WM has them) to bond it to the bonding circuit. There also needs to be a wire from the bonding circuit to one of the nuts holding the stuffing box. Good Luck.
Unless your shaft is "isolated", with a Drive Saver or similar, which is contrary to ABYC standards, there is no need for a shaft brush as the prop, shaft and zinc are all connected electrically to the engine.

I have customers with 45+ year old stuffing boxes that when cleaned up are good as new. No bonding of the box, no shaft brush just a typical ship ground, which on most pleasure sail craft, is the engine block.

I suspect the stuffing box in question was one of the "hey day" boxes some of which were manganese bronze, which can be as much as 40% zinc..

If the seacocks are also bronze, and are fine, then this is likely the cause. He could also have a graphite impregnated packing, like Gore GFO. This can also cause dezincification of a bronze shaft or high zinc content packing gland.
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Old 02-03-2012
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I'm so confused!

The conflicting info I'm getting on this is mind numbing. Sent the picture in the OP to my diver (also a marine mechanic), asking him if we could possibly switch the stuffing box in the water, as I would prefer not to haul out this year. He responded: "Most of the stuffing boxes I see look like that. We'll put a Shaft Brush on it and bond it. It will be fine!". BTW, an article I read on shaft brushes said that the shaft is not bonded to the motor due to the fluid in the transmission.
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So what's the cost of a shaft brush bonded to stuffingbox , engine ground, cutless and rudder (if metal shaft and tube) and any outside zincs. It's difficult to put the zinc back in the pink metal.You can hang a zinc on a grounded wire over the stern but doing it right will be cheaper.
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You need to haul out to do the stuffing box properly. If there's a bearing or shaft issue, it's all problematic. There's nothing wrong with grounding the shaft with a brush. If it had been done in the first place this issue would have not been as traumatic. it's a boat get over it. Sometimes you have to pull without a moments notice; this is one of those times.
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Old 02-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L124C View Post
The conflicting info I'm getting on this is mind numbing. Sent the picture in the OP to my diver (also a marine mechanic), asking him if we could possibly switch the stuffing box in the water, as I would prefer not to haul out this year. He responded: "Most of the stuffing boxes I see look like that. We'll put a Shaft Brush on it and bond it. It will be fine!". BTW, an article I read on shaft brushes said that the shaft is not bonded to the motor due to the fluid in the transmission.
The shaft is firmly attached to the coupling and the coupling is bolted to the transmission. The transmission fluid has nothing to do with the electrical connection. You can check with a multimeter to confirm.

As Maine stated, unless there is a flexible coupling, which eliminates the metal to metal connection at the coupling the shaft brush isn't needed. If there is a flexible coupling a wire jumper from the transmission side to the shaft side can make the connection and is less hassle than a shaft brush.
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