Traveler block

steveg353 · #1 01-30-2012

I have attached a pic of a shoddy traveler block attachment that I inherited. I think the traveler was not originally intended to be controlled with lines.

As you can see, the plate that the block is on is attached to the car with one bolt and the stress bends the plate (sorry if I don't have the nomenclature correct).

I have not been able to find a block configuration online that looks like it would work so I am asking for suggestions.

Also, what is the working load of this block on a 34'er....there is a 2 pulley block on each end of the traveler.

SloopJonB · #2 01-31-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by steveg353

I have attached a pic of a shoddy traveler block attachment that I inherited. I think the traveler was not originally intended to be controlled with lines.

As you can see, the plate that the block is on is attached to the car with one bolt and the stress bends the plate (sorry if I don't have the nomenclature correct).

I have not been able to find a block configuration online that looks like it would work so I am asking for suggestions.

Also, what is the working load of this block on a 34'er....there is a 2 pulley block on each end of the traveler.

I've got the same track & car on my 43' except my car has 8 bearings instead of 4. Mine wasn't set up with blocks for control lines - it has the old spring loaded stoppers instead.

It looks to me as if the line control blocks you have are simply undersized - they look like dinghy hardware. Can you find a similar replacement that's a little more skookum?

celenoglu · #3 01-31-2012

180 degree inverting the available blocks will help to decrease the bending load. Remove and reinstall the blocks upside down.

overbored · #4 01-31-2012

looks like a Ronstan cheek block that they modified to use there. inverting them will just make them bend up instead of down. you need a block that has the eye in the center of the block so the load will be inline with the block

steveg353 · #5 01-31-2012

I agree that turning them 180deg would reduce the bending load a small amount but I would rather replace with a more substantial block. As SloopJonB said, "they look like dinghy hardware".
The problem is that I cannot find a single pully block with a center lined eye that includes a becket for attaching the end of the traveler line.
I am also unsure how to calculate what the working load will be. I guess it cannot be too much if this setup hasn't blown apart yet...but I would like to know for when I purchase new blocks.

Gary3675 · #6 01-31-2012

On our old boat I believe we had the same Traveler. We placed or screwed a pad eye to each side of the traveler and then attached a block to the pad eye. (1 hole attachment with loop. called an eye strap) This allows the block to move....I believe we put a double block on the traveler car to make it easier to adjust..

Faster · #7 01-31-2012

Yeah... I'd be doubling that tackle, that's not exactly a low friction traveler car. And use swivel blocks so that they'll align with whatever load/lead is there. This will likely involve modifying the car as Gary above suggests.

Gary3675 · #8 01-31-2012

No need to modify just replace the block with an eye strap(use the screws that is holdind the block in place for the eye strap) Then attach a new block to the eye strap

SloopJonB · #9 01-31-2012

All good advice but I'd like to point out something I noticed after reading Cleloglu's reply. A closer look at the picture leads

me to believe that the tension on the lines under discussion is in line approximately with the horizontal pivot shaft of the traveller car. If that IS the case, flipping the small blocks upside down might be enough to fair things up.

Certainly worth a try before making significant expenditures.

P.S. to calculate the loads, go to the U.S. Sailing site - they have wind load calculations, which obviously depend on the area of your main.

Brent Swain · #10 01-31-2012

I build all my own blocks , for around $2 worth of materials and 20 minutes work. I just cut the cheeks out of 3/16th aluminium sheet, leave them attached by a 1 inch wide strip for the becket, file the edges round and smooth, fold the becket 180 degrees and put the sheave in on a 3/8th ss bolt. The sheaves I cut from a half inch sheet of poly cutting board type material, with a hole saw. Then I clamp it in a vise and file the groove in with a round rasp. A billionaire couldn't buy a more reliable block for any amount of money. A block is an extremely simple device, for which there is no excuse for the cost and flimsyness of commercially made blocks.