Refinishing Bilge Covers - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 Old 02-09-2012 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 184
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
Refinishing Bilge Covers

Hey All,

I need to refinish one of the bilge covers on our 86 Catalina 30.


This is actually the stuffing box cover and it lives right under our companionway and has some water damage. I was thinking that if I sanded it down I could put some new polyurethane over it and it would look new again. I'm not sure if the factory would have used clear or a tinted shade of something. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks
jetdrvr393 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 02-09-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 2,616
Thanks: 5
Thanked 62 Times in 62 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Just a few thoughts. I would look at chemical strippers rather than sanding - or rather, chemical strip then a light sand.

In the past I've restored some faded cockpit benches, and have used some wood dye to darken up the wood a little, before applying normal varnish. It also has the effect of leveling the difference between parts that have turned a bit grey from oxidation (like that water damaged patch) and those that haven't. I like the Varathane Golden Mahogany which is a great match for teak.

Don't go brushing on the stain by the truckload though. Put a little on a cloth and rub it on sparingly. That way you keep the beauty of the grain.

Do that and then a few layers of interior varnish and it's going to look really great again.

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
MarkSF is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 11 Old 02-09-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 143
Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
Can you tell how thick the teak and holly veneers are? Unless the piece is solid, and I'm sure it is not, you should not sand to remove the coating. As Mark said, use a chemical stripper. Then use teak cleaner on the oxidized parts. If you need to smooth, not level, the surface sand gently with 220 grit or finer. It isn't a large piece so you can take it slow.

Last edited by fordo; 02-09-2012 at 07:33 PM. Reason: punctuation
fordo is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 11 Old 02-09-2012
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,534
Thanks: 104
Thanked 310 Times in 300 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Agreed.. generally the teak layers on this stuff is rather thin.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 11 Old 02-09-2012
72 C&C Corvette
 
CorvetteGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: PHYC
Posts: 318
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
When I be younger I refinished the floor boards on my C&C , Started sanding only to find out the teak vanire was very thin....do not sand. Chenicaly remove the ole shat with a light sand then finnish to match the rest of wood work. Good luck and no belt sanders
CorvetteGuy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 11 Old 02-09-2012
Senior Member
 
GeorgeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Alameda, San Francisco Bay
Posts: 1,820
Thanks: 1
Thanked 52 Times in 51 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
I recommend you use tougher varnish like an exterior grade or at least UV protected. Remember, this is a high traffic area, prone to wetness either from the bildge itself or through the companionway (rain, wash water, the occasional boarding wave - you get the idea). You will be surprised on how much UV fading takes place in the companionway. We use Epifanes matte finish. Also, you will want to seal around the edges so the wood won't expand too much when it is contact with moisture.
GeorgeB is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 11 Old 02-09-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 2,616
Thanks: 5
Thanked 62 Times in 62 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
The first pic is before. Note that some of the varnish has gone completely, leaving the wood to go grey. In other places the varnish has gone opaque and orange.



This is after : chemical strip, light wood stain, 5 layers spar varnish sanding lightly between each. The weathering has just added to the beauty of the wood!


Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
MarkSF is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 11 Old 02-09-2012 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 184
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Yeah the veneers look very thin so I will definitely go with a chemical stripper then a light sand. When I sand in between coats should it be wet sanded?
jetdrvr393 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 11 Old 02-10-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 2,616
Thanks: 5
Thanked 62 Times in 62 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
I dry sanded with 220, very gently. Then remove all dust with a tack cloth.

Before the last coat use 400, then put it on with a brand new brush.

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
MarkSF is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 11 Old 02-12-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2,364
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
On an older boat, don't try to make it look perfect. It will take forever. I would just sand it up, and varnish it and settle for an improvement, not perfection.
Rockter is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Refinishing Bronze? labatt Gear & Maintenance 11 11-17-2009 11:31 AM
Shallow Bilge, Bilge Pump Switch labestia Gear & Maintenance 1 07-10-2009 02:40 PM
Hull refinishing loomaz Gear & Maintenance 7 11-28-2006 12:17 PM
refinishing hatch motorman2743 Seamanship & Navigation 1 04-20-2006 10:58 AM
refinishing a tiller jhasailing Gear & Maintenance 1 05-15-2003 01:15 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome