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  #11  
Old 02-16-2012
1973 Viking 33
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olson34 View Post
Don't avoid downwind sailing due to a fear of rolling a bit. Just keep in mind that most (although not all) of the early IOR designs had quite a pinched-in stern. Like any boats that are near-to-being-a-double-ender at their water line, they cannot plane off the wind. Knowing that you will not be safely going much over 8 kts off the wind, just dial down your sail area to suite the wind pressure.

There are going to be heavy air days where you can hit a maximum comfortable speed with very little sail up. Be happy with that. It's an OK thing.

There is a pay back when going up wind, though. Those symetrical water lines on the IOR boats let them sail beautifully to weather with minimum helm! Much more fun to drive to weather than some of the fat-a__ boats.

Everything's a compromise...
You have one of the prettier boats on the water. Very High "row away" factor, indeed!


L
Thanks very much for the advice and the compliment!! The more I look at it the more I love it!! I think the boat found me as much as I found her!!

BTY I'm going to call her Lolita!
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  #12  
Old 02-17-2012
1973 Viking 33
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PBzeer View Post
From my Ontario 32
That looks good. It seems the deck was cut away and a line locker dropped in and then a panel with the windlass added and bolted down. what about that bow fitting?

was that original to the boat?
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  #13  
Old 02-17-2012
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Standard or tall rig? Ontario offered the tall rig with a tappered mast. They were alodined and clear coated but some owners opted for finished matte black or gloss Awlgrip. All Ontario 32 and Viking 33/33T spars & rigging were built one off by Fritz (he apprentised at Abekking and Rasmussen and passed away last year at 74) & Nick at F & N Yacht Services in Toronto. No doubt the rigging has/will be replaced. F & N was my first full time job, would be great to hear how the rig has endured. Enjoy!

Last edited by rugosa; 02-17-2012 at 08:44 AM.
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  #14  
Old 02-17-2012
1973 Viking 33
 
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Well, it is a standard rig. I guess later in the 70s they used a taller rig and called it a Viking 34 with a different keel. Visually the rig looks fine. I just don't know if I can trust it. I know the mast has been down over the last 4-5 years as the boat has been sitting in the yard. I guess I could have it tested. However I wonder what that would cost and is it money better spent on new rigging and removing doubt about condition.

I'm going to try and call Just Rigging today I think.
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  #15  
Old 02-17-2012
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The bow fitting is standard, to the best of my knowledge. The area where the windlass is was custom made to replace a piece of stainless steel that had been laid over the delaminated locker lid where the old windlass was mounted. The back half of the lid we just rebuilt.
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Ontario 32 - Aria

Free, is the heart, that lives not, in fear.
Full, is the spirit, that thinks not, of falling.
True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
Alive, is the one, that believes, in love.
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  #16  
Old 02-17-2012
1973 Viking 33
 
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Yea that is nice. I have no locker at all. There is a locker at the bow separated by a bulkhead to the V-birth. There really seems to be quite a bit of room up there. I'm not sure how to handle the line just yet. I'm not too keen on the idea of just installing the windlass and allowing all that wet line to simply drop in the bow locker.
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Old 02-17-2012
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There is a drain for my locker. In the picture you can see where the back of the locker is in the vee berth, while the deep part is in front of the vee berth.
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Ontario 32 - Aria

Free, is the heart, that lives not, in fear.
Full, is the spirit, that thinks not, of falling.
True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
Alive, is the one, that believes, in love.
JCP


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  #18  
Old 03-05-2012
1973 Viking 33
 
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Well, i finally got the yard to take the mast off of the boat. Boy is she ever pretty. The head room does suffer some, but those lines...wow.

So, moving forward, I'm getting some prices on the rigging. It seems the upper shrouds are newer, the roller furler is newer, therefore, the head-stay is newer. Like maybe within 10 years... The rest seems original. The question now is whether we can reuse the turnbuckles.

Good news is that there is a lazy jack system already installed within the mess that's all wrapped up on the mast.

I'm trying to get the yard to take care of the bottom work as well. There is a bit of a smile at the keel joint and a good biff at the bottom of the keel. That would kind of suggest a hit of some kind.

If I get them to take care of that and get the standing and running rigging done. I have some painting and wiring and tune up the engine.

There is no headliner in the boat and everywhere there is paint, it is peeling. My plan at the moment is to sand and repaint. I'd love some suggestions on that topic. I also plan on cleaning up the wiring. The wiring isn't bad, it is just not organized. Newer wiring, all run hap-hazard but, in good shape. I plan on trying to add some of that split flexible conduit to help clean things up.

I'm also planning on getting a new carb for the engine as she doesn't want to start without starting fluid. I figure I'll buy a new one and rebuild the old one for a spare.

The engine, is an atomic 4 and still raw water cooled. I'm a little nervous about that part of it. I guess there really is no way to tell how corroded the cooling ducts are or how much life is left in the old girl. I'd really rather not have to deal with that this year... I'd convert it over to electronic ignition and add the fresh water cooling but, I'm not sure it is worth the added effort for this year. I feel I have enough to do at this point. I also feel if there is a need to repower in the not to distant future I could do all that then with a new moyer engine. To be honest i really don't do a lot of motoring. Usually just enough to clear the mooring field and get the sails up. That may change a bit for this boat as I'll have to get used the bigger boat and plan on doing a bit of practicing...

Anyway, as always, I look forward to any input!

Last edited by SloopDogg; 03-05-2012 at 11:49 AM.
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopDogg View Post
Well, i finally got the yard to take the mast off of the boat. Boy is she ever pretty. The head room does suffer some, but those lines...wow.
Wow indeed - they are very sleek boats. They are one of the original reasons for the C&C reputation.

Quote:
So, moving forward, I'm getting some prices on the rigging. It seems the upper shrouds are newer, the roller furler is newer, therefore, the head-stay is newer. Like maybe within 10 years... The rest seems original. The question now is whether we can reuse the turnbuckles.
Just examine all the rigging bits you have questions about. Look at the swages under high magnification to check for cracks. Wrap some tissue around the wire and slide it the full length - any meathooks will snag some paper and mark themselves. (REAL men do it barehanded - the blood marks the spots. ). The turnbuckles should be fine if they are open barrel style, the threads are good and nothing is bent. They don't "wear out" like wire and swages. A lot of the deck hardware on those boats was chromed bronze as well - the turnbuckles could be if they are originals.

Quote:
There is no headliner in the boat and everywhere there is paint, it is peeling. My plan at the moment is to sand and repaint. I'd love some suggestions on that topic.
Use routine, good prep practices and paint with quality "Bath & Kitchen" acrylic paint. It contains mildewcides and so forth for life in damp environs. Use semi-gloss, not high gloss. It looks better and hides imperfections better.

I'd recommend off white of some shade, as opposed to a pure white - the pure, bright whites look rather institutional below decks IMHO. "Vanilla" or "Oyster" or "French white" tones are more subdued and look well with teak.

DO NOT waste money on "marine" paint for interior use. The expensive components in it - UV filters, abrasion resistance etc. serve no purpose below decks.

Quote:
I also plan on cleaning up the wiring. The wiring isn't bad, it is just not organized. Newer wiring, all run hap-hazard but, in good shape. I plan on trying to add some of that split flexible conduit to help clean things up.
Good idea - it makes a big difference. Using the coloured conduit adds a bit of dash and visibility over plain black.

Quote:
I'm also planning on getting a new carb for the engine as she doesn't want to start without starting fluid. I figure I'll buy a new one and rebuild the old one for a spare.

The engine, is an atomic 4 and still raw water cooled. I'm a little nervous about that part of it. I guess there really is no way to tell how corroded the cooling ducts are or how much life is left in the old girl. I'd really rather not have to deal with that this year... I'd convert it over to electronic ignition and add the fresh water cooling but, I'm not sure it is worth the added effort for this year. I feel I have enough to do at this point. I also feel if there is a need to repower in the not to distant future I could do all that then with a new moyer engine. To be honest i really don't do a lot of motoring. Usually just enough to clear the mooring field and get the sails up. That may change a bit for this boat as I'll have to get used the bigger boat and plan on doing a bit of practicing...

Anyway, as always, I look forward to any input!
Pull of all the external pieces of the cooling system and look inside as best you can - you might be able to rent a borescope and have a look in deeper. If the block is decent, spend the money for the full Moyer or Indigo upgrade - electronic distributor, fresh cooling, oil filtration - even though it's only a bypass system, it's better than none. PCV system etc. With all that done, that little engine will run as reliably as a diesel and quieter. As a bonus, all the upgrades will cost $hundreds or maybe dip into 4 figures, not go way into 5 figures like a diesel conversion will.
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2012
1973 Viking 33
 
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Thanks SloopJonB

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Wow indeed - they are very sleek boats. They are one of the original reasons for the C&C reputation.
I really can't wait to see floating and get the real image of her. Most of all I'm very excited about sailing her. I'm imagining quite an experience!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Just examine all the rigging bits you have questions about. Look at the swages under high magnification to check for cracks. Wrap some tissue around the wire and slide it the full length - any meathooks will snag some paper and mark themselves. (REAL men do it barehanded - the blood marks the spots. ). The turnbuckles should be fine if they are open barrel style, the threads are good and nothing is bent. They don't "wear out" like wire and swages. A lot of the deck hardware on those boats was chromed bronze as well - the turnbuckles could be if they are originals.
LOL, I'll stick to the tissue paper idea! I noticed just Sunday that the turnbuckles looked like bronze. Of course most of the chrome is gone. The are, apparently, a heavy cast, open barrel, type.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Use routine, good prep practices and paint with quality "Bath & Kitchen" acrylic paint. It contains mildewcides and so forth for life in damp environs. Use semi-gloss, not high gloss. It looks better and hides imperfections better.

I'd recommend off white of some shade, as opposed to a pure white - the pure, bright whites look rather institutional below decks IMHO. "Vanilla" or "Oyster" or "French white" tones are more subdued and look well with teak.

DO NOT waste money on "marine" paint for interior use. The expensive components in it - UV filters, abrasion resistance etc. serve no purpose below decks.
This is good advice and I had wondered if an interior paint would do. Then, I started to think about either trying to cover the whole thing in some sort of a weave type fabric or covering. Then thought, that sounds like a lot of work. So, I was beginning to lead toward a 2 part epoxy paint. However, I do hate to waste money but, I hate wasting time even more. I was thinking about durability. Something i could do once and then only need to clean from then on.

I'll have to put more thought into this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Good idea - it makes a big difference. Using the coloured conduit adds a bit of dash and visibility over plain black.
Yea, definately, one for sound system one for lights and so forthm makes perfect sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
Pull of all the external pieces of the cooling system and look inside as best you can - you might be able to rent a borescope and have a look in deeper. If the block is decent, spend the money for the full Moyer or Indigo upgrade - electronic distributor, fresh cooling, oil filtration - even though it's only a bypass system, it's better than none. PCV system etc. With all that done, that little engine will run as reliably as a diesel and quieter. As a bonus, all the upgrades will cost $hundreds or maybe dip into 4 figures, not go way into 5 figures like a diesel conversion will.
Hell it seems a brand new moyer with all those upgrades would easily be 1/2 the cost of a diesel conversion. I guess if I do upgrade all that stuff I could always do a short block upgrade and reuse it all in future if necessary. If I do get a look up into the block, how am I to tell it's condition. I read somewhere to fill it with a vinegar solution to help remove scale. The whole thing does work right now as we started the engine during the survey and used a bucket of water for cooling water and it pumped it through.

I guess the thing works now and if I do the fresh water cooling upgrade it will prolong the life of the engine no matter what its condition, right? As long as it isn't leaking the conversion could essentially stop any further corrosion I would imagine. I wonder if I can get a discount if I buy all the upgrades in one shot...

I think dumping a grand into the engine to gain some peace of mind is well worth it. I bought a brand new 9.8hp outboard for the O'day 22 for that very reason. that was $2,000...

BTW know anyone interested in an O'Day 22 turn key package? LOL

Last edited by SloopDogg; 03-06-2012 at 08:25 AM.
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