Well, i finally got the yard to take the mast off of the boat. Boy is she ever pretty. The head room does suffer some, but those lines...wow.
Wow indeed - they are very sleek boats. They are one of the original reasons for the C&C reputation.
So, moving forward, I'm getting some prices on the rigging. It seems the upper shrouds are newer, the roller furler is newer, therefore, the head-stay is newer. Like maybe within 10 years... The rest seems original. The question now is whether we can reuse the turnbuckles.
Just examine all the rigging bits you have questions about. Look at the swages under high magnification to check for cracks. Wrap some tissue around the wire and slide it the full length - any meathooks will snag some paper and mark themselves. (REAL men do it barehanded - the blood marks the spots.
). The turnbuckles should be fine if they are open barrel style, the threads are good and nothing is bent. They don't "wear out" like wire and swages. A lot of the deck hardware on those boats was chromed bronze as well - the turnbuckles could be if they are originals.
There is no headliner in the boat and everywhere there is paint, it is peeling. My plan at the moment is to sand and repaint. I'd love some suggestions on that topic.
Use routine, good prep practices and paint with quality "Bath & Kitchen" acrylic paint. It contains mildewcides and so forth for life in damp environs. Use semi-gloss, not high gloss. It looks better and hides imperfections better.
I'd recommend off white of some shade, as opposed to a pure white - the pure, bright whites look rather institutional below decks IMHO. "Vanilla" or "Oyster" or "French white" tones are more subdued and look well with teak.
DO NOT waste money on "marine" paint for interior use. The expensive components in it - UV filters, abrasion resistance etc. serve no purpose below decks.
I also plan on cleaning up the wiring. The wiring isn't bad, it is just not organized. Newer wiring, all run hap-hazard but, in good shape. I plan on trying to add some of that split flexible conduit to help clean things up.
Good idea - it makes a big difference. Using the coloured conduit adds a bit of dash and visibility over plain black.
I'm also planning on getting a new carb for the engine as she doesn't want to start without starting fluid. I figure I'll buy a new one and rebuild the old one for a spare.
The engine, is an atomic 4 and still raw water cooled. I'm a little nervous about that part of it. I guess there really is no way to tell how corroded the cooling ducts are or how much life is left in the old girl. I'd really rather not have to deal with that this year... I'd convert it over to electronic ignition and add the fresh water cooling but, I'm not sure it is worth the added effort for this year. I feel I have enough to do at this point. I also feel if there is a need to repower in the not to distant future I could do all that then with a new moyer engine. To be honest i really don't do a lot of motoring. Usually just enough to clear the mooring field and get the sails up. That may change a bit for this boat as I'll have to get used the bigger boat and plan on doing a bit of practicing...
Anyway, as always, I look forward to any input!
Pull of all the external pieces of the cooling system and look inside as best you can - you might be able to rent a borescope and have a look in deeper. If the block is decent, spend the money for the full Moyer or Indigo upgrade - electronic distributor, fresh cooling, oil filtration - even though it's only a bypass system, it's better than none. PCV system etc. With all that done, that little engine will run as reliably as a diesel and quieter. As a bonus, all the upgrades will cost $hundreds or maybe dip into 4 figures, not go way into 5 figures like a diesel conversion will.