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  #21  
Old 03-06-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

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Originally Posted by SloopDogg View Post
LOL, I'll stick to the tissue paper idea! I noticed just Sunday that the turnbuckles looked like bronze. Of course most of the chrome is gone. The are, apparently, a heavy cast, open barrel, type.
That's what mine were - I sanded off the remaining chrome and then polished them up with a buffing wheel and some sticks of abrasive polish. They came out looking like gold (for a while anyway. )

Quote:
This is good advice and I had wondered if an interior paint would do. Then, I started to think about either trying to cover the whole thing in some sort of a weave type fabric or covering. Then thought, that sounds like a lot of work. So, I was beginning to lead toward a 2 part epoxy paint. However, I do hate to waste money but, I hate wasting time even more. I was thinking about durability. Something i could do once and then only need to clean from then on. I'll have to put more thought into this.
The cabintops of those boats are so "roundy" that putting up any kind of fabric would be like trying to upholster a football. I'd stick with paint, at least for the overhead. As for the paint, I followed my own advice on my last boat and it lasted just fine for nine years. Gave it a good scrubbing before listing it and the broker was very complimentary about its appearance.

Quote:
Hell it seems a brand new moyer with all those upgrades would easily be 1/2 the cost of a diesel conversion. I guess if I do upgrade all that stuff I could always do a short block upgrade and reuse it all in future if necessary. If I do get a look up into the block, how am I to tell it's condition. I read somewhere to fill it with a vinegar solution to help remove scale. The whole thing does work right now as we started the engine during the survey and used a bucket of water for cooling water and it pumped it through.

I guess the thing works now and if I do the fresh water cooling upgrade it will prolong the life of the engine no matter what its condition, right? As long as it isn't leaking the conversion could essentially stop any further corrosion I would imagine. I wonder if I can get a discount if I buy all the upgrades in one shot...

I think dumping a grand into the engine to gain some peace of mind is well worth it. I bought a brand new 9.8hp outboard for the O'day 22 for that very reason. that was $2,000...
I think you see the logic of the A4. As to checking its internal condition, you can't really tell if it's getting thin in places without doing some kind of sonic testing. What you can tell is if it is crudded up with scale and deposits in the water jackets. Looking at the state of the thermostat housing etc. will give you some idea of the state of any corrosion. Hardly a guaranteed test but should show up any serious problems. Also, don't forget to include the overall state of the exterior of the engine - that will tell you if it was neglected or cared for as well. If you want to get into it a bit more before making an expensive decision, pull the cylinder head. It's an extremely simple thing to do on a flathead and will only cost a head gasket and some time.
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  #22  
Old 03-06-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Oh and another thing I need advice on is a boarding ladder. I can't believe it but the boat currently doesn't have one. I feel it a necessity to have really good boarding ladder and I love some recommendations.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Just wanted to add a picture...

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  #24  
Old 03-21-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Okay, It turns out I'll need new sails for my boat.

The sails are all from the early 70s. It turns out there is a very light 150% Genny in "okay" shape but needs some help. could cost me $400 and it is still old but seems like it hasn't seen a lot of use.

The main is shot, no hope. Thurston is going to quote me a new main and a new #2 135% head sail.

There is also a #3 Jib

and a 2nd, heavier #1 about 140% to 150% that has had mice living in the bag with it.

He is also going to have another look to see if I can get another season out of one of the head sails.

I'd love some advice or suggestions. I imagine it is better to buy a new sail than to dump $300 into a sail for one year. Maybe not...I could look for used I guess.

I got sails for my O'Day 22 from porpoise sails for a real cheap price. He sold me a new main and used Genny for like $550

I'll try him again.

But seeing as I'll have to do this, is there anything I should be thinking about as an upgrade to make my life sailing easier. The boat has a relatively new roller furler and Lazy jacks. I have no main sail cover.
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Old 03-21-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopDogg View Post
Okay, It turns out I'll need new sails for my boat.

The sails are all from the early 70s. It turns out there is a very light 150% Genny in "okay" shape but needs some help. could cost me $400 and it is still old but seems like it hasn't seen a lot of use.

The main is shot, no hope. Thurston is going to quote me a new main and a new #2 135% head sail.

There is also a #3 Jib

and a 2nd, heavier #1 about 140% to 150% that has had mice living in the bag with it.

He is also going to have another look to see if I can get another season out of one of the head sails.

I'd love some advice or suggestions. I imagine it is better to buy a new sail than to dump $300 into a sail for one year. Maybe not...I could look for used I guess.

I got sails for my O'Day 22 from porpoise sails for a real cheap price. He sold me a new main and used Genny for like $550

I'll try him again.

But seeing as I'll have to do this, is there anything I should be thinking about as an upgrade to make my life sailing easier. The boat has a relatively new roller furler and Lazy jacks. I have no main sail cover.
For jibs & spinnakers, I'd check the used sail sites on the web - Bacons, Minneys, Second Wind etc - there's lots of them. It's possible but unlikely that you'll be able to find a good main but they have a huge variety of jibs & spinnakers in all shapes, sizes & ages. Even the best ones are 1/2 or less of new cost.
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  #26  
Old 03-29-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Okay, so the saga continues.

Today's question;

She has a smile.... there is also an
abrasion at the bottom of the keel. It think it may have been
grounded. I think it mat have even happen while on the hard...the
abrasion on the bottom has not been painted over and the rest of the
bottom paint is in good shape with the exception of that smile. I'm
told the boat was on the hard at the PO's son-in-law's yard. them
moved to its current location and probably moved around there a bit in
the years it has been stored. Anyway, I'm going to have this stuff
repaired but I'm wondering if I should drop the keel and inspect the
bolts. I know it is probably not an easy job but, probably not all
that difficult either. It is just that the entire joint seems to
need ground out and while the joint is already open, would it make
sense to inspect the bolts? It just seems to me you could put a floor
jack under it loosen the bolts enough to peer in with a light and see
if there is anything horrible going on in there. What do you guys think. The surveyor suggested simply
fixing the joint. Its just the more I think about it, an inspection
shouldn't be too much extra work. Am I off base here? Danny
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  #27  
Old 03-29-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

While an inspection would be well advised I suspect the keel may not obligingly 'drop' as easy as that, depending on what was used as a bedding compound previously. OTOH you might get lucky. Be careful about where the jack stands are installed, you'll be taking the entire weight of the boat on them for at least part of the time.

The extreme slope of the V33 keel will make 'blocking it with a floor jack' somewhat more problematic than a Peterson type fin.. that may complicate things a bit since you want the keel to come straight down, not rotate down.

As I'm sure you've gathered the 'smile' is not unusual. If you decide to simply clean out the seams and reseal I understand West's G-flex epoxy has had good results in this area. (used it myself last spring, will check next haul)

Good luck!
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  #28  
Old 03-29-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
While an inspection would be well advised I suspect the keel may not obligingly 'drop' as easy as that, depending on what was used as a bedding compound previously. OTOH you might get lucky. Be careful about where the jack stands are installed, you'll be taking the entire weight of the boat on them for at least part of the time.

The extreme slope of the V33 keel will make 'blocking it with a floor jack' somewhat more problematic than a Peterson type fin.. that may complicate things a bit since you want the keel to come straight down, not rotate down.

As I'm sure you've gathered the 'smile' is not unusual. If you decide to simply clean out the seams and reseal I understand West's G-flex epoxy has had good results in this area. (used it myself last spring, will check next haul)

Good luck!
IIRC, those Vikings had their keels epoxied on. I vaguely recall a story (Pacific Yachting?) about one of them going on the rocks in Porlier back in the day and the bent keel had to be sawn off.

Probably best to ensure the nuts are tight and then fill the smile.
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  #29  
Old 04-03-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
IIRC, those Vikings had their keels epoxied on. I vaguely recall a story (Pacific Yachting?) about one of them going on the rocks in Porlier back in the day and the bent keel had to be sawn off.

Probably best to ensure the nuts are tight and then fill the smile.
Thats exactly what I plan to do...or, actually, have the yard do. I finally got a guy on the phone who got me on the schedule to fix the smile and paint the bottom for about $800-$900.

At least that takes one project off my list.

I've gone ahead and ordered sails from Thurston for about $4700. I could have saved money buying on line but, as best I could tell there was a quality difference in the details. I met with Steve Thurston who walked me through the whole sail, pointing out all the details they've added over the years.

I'm, hopefully, going to get down to the yard on Saturday and strip the mast to take all the rigging over to rigging only. I should be able to save a few bucks there as apposed to having someone strip and install.

After that I have to get inside the boat and take care of all the peeling paint, clean the bilge and install the new mast step. It is beginning to feel like I'm not going to get the windlass installed this year. I guess I could install it and just not have the line tuck neatly away in a locker. That will be a majority of the work as there is no locker now. I'd still have to deal with the line I would just not have to lug it all up by hand. And given the recent shoulder surgery, It's probably a good idea!

Any one have any good ideas for handling anchor line without a locker?

Danny
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  #30  
Old 04-03-2012
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Re: Ontario Yachts Viking 33 advice

Great looking boat. Very C&Cish

You can pay to have the smile "fixed" but I feel you may be wasting your money. It will return the next time you haul, or maybe even when they lift the boat.

Torque the keel bolts to spec.
Sand the smile to remove all the bottom paint (but not barrier coat, if there is any) to about 3/4 inch around the smile.
Tape it off.
Run a bead of 3M 4200 over the smile and use a spreader to even it off like a big bandaid.
Bottom paint as usual.

This will allow for a little flexing under the bottom paint. Next time at haul out you will still have the smile but it will probably be just a very thin crack in the bottom paint.

If the keel is swept back like many older C&C designs, be sure that the keel is blocked properly.

It may be the lever action of the weight on the aft section of the keel that causes it to flex a tiny bit when the boat is lifted or set down. On my boat a faint smile would return after bottom painting when the boat was lifted for launch (the swept back keel acting as a lever when the force of the hull was removed and the weight of the keel added at liftoff).

Last edited by RobGallagher; 04-03-2012 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Now that I think about it, I may have used 4200, makes more sense...
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