Anchor Roller Location - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-19-2012 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by knotted View Post
or worse, chain eating into the stem until it sinks the boat!

The solution to this is to install a bow eye about 6 inches above the waterline, with a snubber (1 size smaller than your rode) permanently attached to the eye and brought to a forward deck cleat. Dave Gerr designed this for Imagine (I know, a motor cruiser, but it's still a very good idea!)
Whoa. Great idea! And this from a stink-pot owner? So simple and elegant too. This solution could keep me well away from the danger areas of the bow.

Much food for though here. Thanks. I will chew on this a while.

-Steve
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-19-2012 Thread Starter
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One advantage of having the roller right at the stem, though, is the reduced risk of the anchor swinging into the topsides when it pops out of the water and dinging the gel coat - esp on boats like the Sabre with decent bow overhangs... moving aft to the more vertical topsides could risk some unsightly damage, esp if it's a dark hull....
I was experimenting in my garage with a roller, anchor, and mock-up bow (a work bench table). It is a bit scarey watching a Danforth anchor swing around. It is a gelcoat destroyer.
-Steve
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-19-2012
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Consider a bow roller on the end of a folding 'bow sprit' . Think elbow joint. Folds up and back beside forestay fiting. Maybe angled to miss furler drum.Strong, big pin,easy.Or roller on a two position square ss tube.Pull pin and slide inboard.replace pin. Eye on the end for the drifter.
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-19-2012
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Consider a bow roller on the end of a folding 'bow sprit' . Think elbow joint. Folds up and back beside forestay fiting. Maybe angled to miss furler drum.Strong, big pin,easy.Or roller on a two position square ss tube.Pull pin and slide inboard.replace pin. Eye on the end for the drifter.
Such a folding sprit tends to fold downwards or sideways when trying to recover your anchor on a wind and swell,when it is jammed under a rock.Too flimsy. Better solution is a 1/8th inch thick stainless nose cone under the roller, to take the bashing from a swinging anchor. Then you can make your bow roller short, and as strong as any rode you are likely to use

Brent Swain, Boat designer, Builder, and author of "Origami Metal Boatbuilding"
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-19-2012
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Too strong never broke. My thinking was that if the anchor roller is outboard you can sit on the foredeck with back to the mast and haul away. when it's home , belay. Both ways work,it's about the technique.
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post #16 of 16 Old 02-22-2012 Thread Starter
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All very good ideas, guys. I am headed to the boat today. I have a Lewmar anchor roller that is about 15" long. It pivots, too. The pivot makes it easier to haul in. I have some mechanical engineering training and I can't explain this. Can't argue with the results either. When the roller is lower, weighing is easier.

I did have an off center bowsprit, which was really a plank which held the roller, but it took up too much free deck space on the bow.

I have a hole in the deck for the rode (deck pipe) which leads to a rode locker, not an anchor locker.

I like the elbow idea, but this would have to be one heavy duty elbow. Still, it would store the anchor, upside down, no?

Steve

Can anyone tell me how to post pictures?
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