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-   -   US 22 Project (http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/84102-us-22-project.html)

jcase12 02-19-2012 11:16 PM

US 22 Project
 
I have recently acquired a US 22 that in need of allot of work. I have begun the process of tracking down (and removing) the rot. I have hauled the boat out and it is now on stands at my house. The problems so far appear to be constrained to the interior, which is good! The deck is strong and solid but I will be rebedding all of the fittings soon which will give me the chance to check it more throughly.
I know these boat have a bad rep. but it was designed by Gary Mull and has a very well thought out design. Some of the implementation of this design by US Yachts (Bayliner) has proven to be lacking no doubt to lower building cost and increase margins. All of these shortcomings appear to be confined to the interior fitting of the ship which, by no suprise, is all coming out due to the rot. This process is nearly finished and the raw hull is very strong and shows no voids or rot. I was able to do a thermal image to test this (doing thermal imaging research has its advantages, well at least one!) The main hull seems to be of solid fiberglass with coring used in some key areas (keel and what not).
My questions are;
Does anyone have any info on the boats? It as proving hard to find!

The bulkheads that were in the boat (rotten near the bottom) were plywood and were NOT expoxied into the hull at all they were mearly bolted in several places.
I am wondering if when I replace Bulkheads would be ok to fillet them in with west systems and some glass to make them stronger?
Also what material should I use? Meranti (or similar marine ply) or one of the alternative foam based materials out there?

The mast stays are the type that have a piece of flat bar that goes through the deck and bolts to the bulkheads asked about above.
Should I replace these with a single piece unit with a chainplate to eliminate the potential for a leak through the deck? I can still tie the chain plate into the bulkhead for the strength by redesigning the backing plate to a "L" shape.

Finally...I would appreciate any advice about rebuilding a sailboat?!!!!:)

mitiempo 02-20-2012 02:32 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Good plywood is probably the best for the bulkheads, marine ply like occume or meranti the best. I would use a bit of foam as a spacer between the hull and the bulkhead edge and fillet and glass, using biaxial roving and epoxy. See diagram below.

I am not really sure what you mean about the chainplates as there will have to be holes for the bolts through the deck anyway.

There is core in the keel area?

jcase12 02-20-2012 11:28 AM

Thanks for the pic. I am not sure how to describe it but the current mount for the stays has a slot in the plate that the flat bar goes thru but does not attach in anyway to so it must be sealed. But I am sure it flexes allot under load opening a gap.Ill try to get agood ic of it and post it later this week.

As far as the keel coring I probaly should have callled it bedding. It is some type of very hard close grain wood bedded into the fiberglass that the keel bolts go thru.

Thanks again,
Jason

CalebD 02-20-2012 03:27 PM

Gary Mull designed some good boats. I think it is also called a Buccaneer 22.
Specs on the US 22:
US 22 sailboat on sailboatdata.com

Barquito 02-20-2012 05:44 PM

Is is common to tab the bulkhead as well as run a fillet?

I think I probably read that in a Don Casey book.

mitiempo 02-20-2012 07:01 PM

The fillet allows the glass to take a fair curve instead of a sharp angle between the bulkhead and the hull. If you use foam as drawn above it can minimize the epoxy for the fillet, if not eliminate it. The fillet doesn't add much strength. The biax roving does.

SloopJonB 02-20-2012 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcase12 (Post 833960)
My questions are;
Does anyone have any info on the boats? It as proving hard to find!

There's a Bayliner owners site on the web somewhere but I don't have a link - might be under Buccaneer.

Quote:

The bulkheads that were in the boat (rotten near the bottom) were plywood and were NOT expoxied into the hull at all they were mearly bolted in several places. I am wondering if when I replace Bulkheads would be ok to fillet them in with west systems and some glass to make them stronger?
Also what material should I use? Meranti (or similar marine ply) or one of the alternative foam based materials out there?
Definitely tab them fully. I'd use the bolts as well since tabbing has been known to pull loose from plywood. If you want to spend a LOT, marine ply is nice but not necessary in this case IMHO - ordinary fir G2S exterior ply will be fine. Seal all the edges with epoxy after they are cut to shape. Taper the tabbing area of the ply a bit, to expose the layers a bit so the tabbing doesn't only bond with the surface layer. Face it with teak veneer or laminate AFTER you have the bulkhead tabbed in place so it can cover the tabbing - makes a very neat job.

Quote:

The mast stays are the type that have a piece of flat bar that goes through the deck and bolts to the bulkheads asked about above.
Should I replace these with a single piece unit with a chainplate to eliminate the potential for a leak through the deck? I can still tie the chain plate into the bulkhead for the strength by redesigning the backing plate to a "L" shape.
Don't really understand this for sure - I would just re-use the stock pieces, provided they are in good shape. If they show signs of wear or crevice corrosion, just remake them in kind.

Quote:

Finally...I would appreciate any advice about rebuilding a sailboat?:)
Buy a copy of "This Old Boat" and Casey's other book - can't remember the name - it's a compilation of several smaller, specialized topic books he wrote.

IGNORE his "gasket" method for sealing deck hardware - use the potting and countersink method with butyl tape you will find detailed on SailNet (somewhere :D)

Track down a local consignment shop that handles boat gear and check it often for bargains.

Watch Craigslist etc. routinely for other bargains.

Have fun. :cool: We'll be here when you have questions.

jcase12 02-20-2012 11:54 PM

Thx for all the advice I wil definately pick up that book. Also a big thx for the advice of the bulkhead material that is considerably less $$ which of course is always good. Do you think that wood is good for rebuilding the "Furniture" for the interior as long as I prep it like you mention. Also I was thinking of coating it in fiber and finishing it with white epoxy paint (marine grade) to decrease the maintenance of wood finishes in the long term and brighten up the cabin (and make cleanup easier). does this seem ok?

SloopJonB 02-21-2012 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcase12 (Post 834492)
Thx for all the advice I wil definately pick up that book. Also a big thx for the advice of the bulkhead material that is considerably less $$ which of course is always good. Do you think that wood is good for rebuilding the "Furniture" for the interior as long as I prep it like you mention. Also I was thinking of coating it in fiber and finishing it with white epoxy paint (marine grade) to decrease the maintenance of wood finishes in the long term and brighten up the cabin (and make cleanup easier). does this seem ok?

Marine grade plywood has 3 advantages over plain old exterior grade plywood. It is guaranteed to have no voids, its glue can withstand boiling for some specified period of time and it usually has pretty face veneers.

A few small internal voids or "boats" on the faces are no problem for construction inside a boat. Regular exterior ply uses waterproof glue that can withstand soaking - do you plan to boil your bulkheads? :D You can cover the ply with any pretty surface you wish, just include their thickness when you choose your base plywood thickness.

I think you will find very little "marine" ply used in boat interiors. It is very desirable for building dinghys and so forth but simply added expense for what you are planning. at $hundreds a sheet compared to $10's a sheet, it's no choice at all to me.

An all glassed interior would require a lot of finishing work to smooth it out. If you want low maintenance, I'd use high pressure laminate (Arborite). You will be reducing the boats saleability though IMHO - people like wood on sailboats. I'd face things in teak or cherry veneer - something like that. It's not very expensive to do using 1/8" material.

Don't bother with "marine" paint inside. The high price is due to all the UV inhibitors, abrasion resistance and so forth which are not needed inside. Regular bathroom paint works very well - it has some mildewcides in it for damp environments. Use semi-gloss - it has a nicer sheen than gloss and hides problems better.

P.S. if you are determined to do a "glass" interior, use something like 10 oz. cloth, not biaxial or roving. 10oz. drapes and lays very well and if you heavily resinate it, requires minimal filling to bury the weave. The coarser fabrics are designed to build laminate thickness, not provide a fine finish.

mxracer19 02-23-2012 11:23 PM

Im actually redoing a bayliner buccaneer 200 interior from completely bare...the po had gutted the boat for racing. I too had a rotted bulkhead and when I replaced it I made a pattern from luan and fabricated the actual bh from 3/4 exterior ply weted with epoxy with 2 coats on the edges. Ill post some pics eventually but my plan is to paint the interior white with cherry vaneer in key areas. How far are you into your restoration?


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