US 22 Project - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 


Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 02-19-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 34
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
jcase12 is on a distinguished road
US 22 Project

I have recently acquired a US 22 that in need of allot of work. I have begun the process of tracking down (and removing) the rot. I have hauled the boat out and it is now on stands at my house. The problems so far appear to be constrained to the interior, which is good! The deck is strong and solid but I will be rebedding all of the fittings soon which will give me the chance to check it more throughly.
I know these boat have a bad rep. but it was designed by Gary Mull and has a very well thought out design. Some of the implementation of this design by US Yachts (Bayliner) has proven to be lacking no doubt to lower building cost and increase margins. All of these shortcomings appear to be confined to the interior fitting of the ship which, by no suprise, is all coming out due to the rot. This process is nearly finished and the raw hull is very strong and shows no voids or rot. I was able to do a thermal image to test this (doing thermal imaging research has its advantages, well at least one!) The main hull seems to be of solid fiberglass with coring used in some key areas (keel and what not).
My questions are;
Does anyone have any info on the boats? It as proving hard to find!

The bulkheads that were in the boat (rotten near the bottom) were plywood and were NOT expoxied into the hull at all they were mearly bolted in several places.
I am wondering if when I replace Bulkheads would be ok to fillet them in with west systems and some glass to make them stronger?
Also what material should I use? Meranti (or similar marine ply) or one of the alternative foam based materials out there?

The mast stays are the type that have a piece of flat bar that goes through the deck and bolts to the bulkheads asked about above.
Should I replace these with a single piece unit with a chainplate to eliminate the potential for a leak through the deck? I can still tie the chain plate into the bulkhead for the strength by redesigning the backing plate to a "L" shape.

Finally...I would appreciate any advice about rebuilding a sailboat?!!!!
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 02-20-2012
mitiempo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,007
Thanks: 0
Thanked 63 Times in 54 Posts
Rep Power: 7
mitiempo will become famous soon enough mitiempo will become famous soon enough
Good plywood is probably the best for the bulkheads, marine ply like occume or meranti the best. I would use a bit of foam as a spacer between the hull and the bulkhead edge and fillet and glass, using biaxial roving and epoxy. See diagram below.

I am not really sure what you mean about the chainplates as there will have to be holes for the bolts through the deck anyway.

There is core in the keel area?
Attached Thumbnails
US 22 Project-1.jpg  
__________________
Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 02-20-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 34
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
jcase12 is on a distinguished road
Thanks for the pic. I am not sure how to describe it but the current mount for the stays has a slot in the plate that the flat bar goes thru but does not attach in anyway to so it must be sealed. But I am sure it flexes allot under load opening a gap.Ill try to get agood ic of it and post it later this week.

As far as the keel coring I probaly should have callled it bedding. It is some type of very hard close grain wood bedded into the fiberglass that the keel bolts go thru.

Thanks again,
Jason
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 02-20-2012
CalebD's Avatar
Tartan 27' owner
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,503
Thanks: 4
Thanked 83 Times in 76 Posts
Rep Power: 7
CalebD will become famous soon enough
Gary Mull designed some good boats. I think it is also called a Buccaneer 22.
Specs on the US 22:
US 22 sailboat on sailboatdata.com
__________________
"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 02-20-2012
Barquito's Avatar
Barquito
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,901
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 7
Barquito is on a distinguished road
Is is common to tab the bulkhead as well as run a fillet?

I think I probably read that in a Don Casey book.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 02-20-2012
mitiempo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 7,007
Thanks: 0
Thanked 63 Times in 54 Posts
Rep Power: 7
mitiempo will become famous soon enough mitiempo will become famous soon enough
The fillet allows the glass to take a fair curve instead of a sharp angle between the bulkhead and the hull. If you use foam as drawn above it can minimize the epoxy for the fillet, if not eliminate it. The fillet doesn't add much strength. The biax roving does.
__________________
Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 02-20-2012
SloopJonB's Avatar
Senior Moment Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 10,613
Thanks: 56
Thanked 48 Times in 45 Posts
Rep Power: 4
SloopJonB will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcase12 View Post
My questions are;
Does anyone have any info on the boats? It as proving hard to find!
There's a Bayliner owners site on the web somewhere but I don't have a link - might be under Buccaneer.

Quote:
The bulkheads that were in the boat (rotten near the bottom) were plywood and were NOT expoxied into the hull at all they were mearly bolted in several places. I am wondering if when I replace Bulkheads would be ok to fillet them in with west systems and some glass to make them stronger?
Also what material should I use? Meranti (or similar marine ply) or one of the alternative foam based materials out there?
Definitely tab them fully. I'd use the bolts as well since tabbing has been known to pull loose from plywood. If you want to spend a LOT, marine ply is nice but not necessary in this case IMHO - ordinary fir G2S exterior ply will be fine. Seal all the edges with epoxy after they are cut to shape. Taper the tabbing area of the ply a bit, to expose the layers a bit so the tabbing doesn't only bond with the surface layer. Face it with teak veneer or laminate AFTER you have the bulkhead tabbed in place so it can cover the tabbing - makes a very neat job.

Quote:
The mast stays are the type that have a piece of flat bar that goes through the deck and bolts to the bulkheads asked about above.
Should I replace these with a single piece unit with a chainplate to eliminate the potential for a leak through the deck? I can still tie the chain plate into the bulkhead for the strength by redesigning the backing plate to a "L" shape.
Don't really understand this for sure - I would just re-use the stock pieces, provided they are in good shape. If they show signs of wear or crevice corrosion, just remake them in kind.

Quote:
Finally...I would appreciate any advice about rebuilding a sailboat?
Buy a copy of "This Old Boat" and Casey's other book - can't remember the name - it's a compilation of several smaller, specialized topic books he wrote.

IGNORE his "gasket" method for sealing deck hardware - use the potting and countersink method with butyl tape you will find detailed on SailNet (somewhere )

Track down a local consignment shop that handles boat gear and check it often for bargains.

Watch Craigslist etc. routinely for other bargains.

Have fun. We'll be here when you have questions.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 02-20-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 34
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
jcase12 is on a distinguished road
Thx for all the advice I wil definately pick up that book. Also a big thx for the advice of the bulkhead material that is considerably less $$ which of course is always good. Do you think that wood is good for rebuilding the "Furniture" for the interior as long as I prep it like you mention. Also I was thinking of coating it in fiber and finishing it with white epoxy paint (marine grade) to decrease the maintenance of wood finishes in the long term and brighten up the cabin (and make cleanup easier). does this seem ok?
SloopJonB likes this.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 02-21-2012
SloopJonB's Avatar
Senior Moment Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 10,613
Thanks: 56
Thanked 48 Times in 45 Posts
Rep Power: 4
SloopJonB will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcase12 View Post
Thx for all the advice I wil definately pick up that book. Also a big thx for the advice of the bulkhead material that is considerably less $$ which of course is always good. Do you think that wood is good for rebuilding the "Furniture" for the interior as long as I prep it like you mention. Also I was thinking of coating it in fiber and finishing it with white epoxy paint (marine grade) to decrease the maintenance of wood finishes in the long term and brighten up the cabin (and make cleanup easier). does this seem ok?
Marine grade plywood has 3 advantages over plain old exterior grade plywood. It is guaranteed to have no voids, its glue can withstand boiling for some specified period of time and it usually has pretty face veneers.

A few small internal voids or "boats" on the faces are no problem for construction inside a boat. Regular exterior ply uses waterproof glue that can withstand soaking - do you plan to boil your bulkheads? You can cover the ply with any pretty surface you wish, just include their thickness when you choose your base plywood thickness.

I think you will find very little "marine" ply used in boat interiors. It is very desirable for building dinghys and so forth but simply added expense for what you are planning. at $hundreds a sheet compared to $10's a sheet, it's no choice at all to me.

An all glassed interior would require a lot of finishing work to smooth it out. If you want low maintenance, I'd use high pressure laminate (Arborite). You will be reducing the boats saleability though IMHO - people like wood on sailboats. I'd face things in teak or cherry veneer - something like that. It's not very expensive to do using 1/8" material.

Don't bother with "marine" paint inside. The high price is due to all the UV inhibitors, abrasion resistance and so forth which are not needed inside. Regular bathroom paint works very well - it has some mildewcides in it for damp environments. Use semi-gloss - it has a nicer sheen than gloss and hides problems better.

P.S. if you are determined to do a "glass" interior, use something like 10 oz. cloth, not biaxial or roving. 10oz. drapes and lays very well and if you heavily resinate it, requires minimal filling to bury the weave. The coarser fabrics are designed to build laminate thickness, not provide a fine finish.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.

Last edited by SloopJonB; 02-21-2012 at 02:01 AM.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #10  
Old 02-23-2012
Semper Fidelis
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
mxracer19 is on a distinguished road
Im actually redoing a bayliner buccaneer 200 interior from completely bare...the po had gutted the boat for racing. I too had a rotted bulkhead and when I replaced it I made a pattern from luan and fabricated the actual bh from 3/4 exterior ply weted with epoxy with 2 coats on the edges. Ill post some pics eventually but my plan is to paint the interior white with cherry vaneer in key areas. How far are you into your restoration?
__________________
-S/V Far Niente


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My C-22 Project TravelinJack Gear & Maintenance 42 05-24-2013 02:44 PM
Help me with a project for my son!?! mattie411 General Discussion (sailing related) 1 01-27-2012 07:05 AM
Our last project bobperry General Discussion (sailing related) 3 12-23-2011 01:44 AM
New project Swb47 Boat Review and Purchase Forum 3 06-24-2010 10:44 AM
I didn't want a project but but I have one slocum2 Gear & Maintenance 3 03-08-2009 08:14 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:23 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012