Join Date: Apr 2010
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Re: Balboa 20 owners?
Had a busy last couple of days and haven't been on sailnet. Some crude diagrams are attached.
In my 1972 B20:
The cast-metal masthead assembly incorporates two sheeves held in with clevis pins. The main halyard runs from the main headboard up the aft side of the mast, over both sheeves in the masthead and down the forward/starboard side of the mast to a cleat. The sheeves themselves are made for wire/rope combo halyards (perhaps factory halyards were combo?) I just use 5/16 stayset.
The jib halyard block and forestay are both attached to a "mast hound". The forestay is attached to an upper hole in the hound and the jib block to a lower hole using a shackle. The halyard is lead from the jib head round the block and down to a cleat on the port side of the mast.
The way I've led them left/right-wise is convenient for a right-hander. If you are left-handed, you may want to switch the left/right disposition of the halyards.
The main sheet setup on my boat is "factory" and does not use a traveler or car. There are three blocks: a single block with a "standup" spring on the port quarter, a double block attached to the outboard end of the boom and a single block with 1) a standup spring, 2)a becket and 3) a double cam cleat attached to the starboard quarter.
The sheet is tied to the becket on the starboard quarter block then led:
-through the double block on the boom
-around the single block on the port quarter
-back throught the double block on the boom
-around the single block on the starboard quarter and throught the cam cleat.
We usually cleat the main sheet on a regular cleat as well 'cause it easily shakes loose from the cam cleat. With this setup you have 4:1 purchase.
I do not miss having a traveler/car but then again I do not race. We just set up other lines as needed if we need to hold the boom inboard in light airs or flatten the sail in stronger ones.
The factory setup for the jib sheet (shown starboard on the diagram) is simply to lead the sheet through a fairlead (mounted next to the toerail) back to a self-jamming cleat mounted on the cockpit coaming.
Now, the previous owner added winches on the cockpit coamings and 1-inch genoa tracks with single-block cars on the side decks. So we lead the jib through the block on the car over to the winch and back to the cleat. This is shown on the port side of the diagram. The winches are mounted in the coaming without any wooden base to adjust the lead-in angle. The angle of the coaming (on which the winches are mounted is OK when the genoa cars are set aft of the winches but not when the cars are set forward of the winches or when using the factory fairleads. For almost all sailing, I actually don't need to use the winches -I just trim by hand.
In addition there are forward-facing plastic jam-cleats mounted on the inside of the cockpit coming that can used to cleat the jib.
I use 5/16 lines for all running rigging except the jib sheets. For those I am currently using 1/2 inch. (Because I don't generally use the winches, the 1/2 inch is easier on the hands.)
MY advice (and I've read elsewhere as well for B-20's) is to take the factory backstay and turn the turnbuckle down and shorten it as short as it can go. With the backstay adjusted so, the factory forestay won't be long enough and you have to use an additional shackle or chain link or two to make up the gap (the factory shrouds will still fit though). The slight aft rake this imparts to the mast makes a world of difference in handling. Both in pressure needed to steer upwind and reducing rolling experienced downwind.
ASLO, the rudder is set up to swing up and down. There is almost never any reason to use the "up" position for sailng except shallowest, weedy of inlets or when loading onto or unloading from the trailer. (DO unship the rudder entirely when on the road trailering.) There is absolutely no use for any position other than all the way up or all the way down. Now, if you position your outboard so the propellor just clears the turn of the hull you will find it will not contact the rudder in either the full up or down position.
Last edited by gregor1234; 04-19-2012 at 12:51 PM.