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post #1 of 13 Old 03-12-2012 Thread Starter
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Seacocks

I've always used bronze thru hulls with bronze seacocks.

Have to replace the starboard cockpit drain seacock.

The Marelon valves seem to be smoother and easier to operate. Even when I greased the bronze ones, they were always stiff.

Is there any reason I should not put Marelon valve on a bronze mushroom thru hull?

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post #2 of 13 Old 03-15-2012
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Re: Seacocks

strength & durability?

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post #3 of 13 Old 03-15-2012
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Re: Seacocks

Marelon valves seem to be gaining in the market. They've been around long enough that any generic plastic problems like age hardening should have shown up by now.

The lack of galvanic problems offsets any questions of strength to my mind.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-15-2012
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Re: Seacocks

Lately I've been thinking i should have them on the transom for the cockpit drains

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post #5 of 13 Old 03-15-2012
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Re: Seacocks

Im looking at the advantages in terms of cost and galvanic corrosion avoidance...and I'm thinking that when it comes time to replace my thru-hulls and seacocks, marelon will be high on the list.

I especially am concerned about the A/C input water thru-hull my dealer installed. Its already looking bad after only 3 years in the marine environment.

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post #6 of 13 Old 03-15-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Seacocks

Thanks for the thoughts.

I've decided to go with Marelon.
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-16-2012
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Re: Seacocks

This can almost rise to the level of debating anchors. I'm old school and haven't embrassed GRP seacocks yet, but acknowledge some of the reasons why they are attractive (corrosion).

However, the principal reason for a seacock is to prevent water from entering the boat, when you don't want it to. Otherwise, you wouldn't bother having one at all. If I understand correctly, you must be diligent in greasing these during the season or risk shearing off the handle from the ball. I've read where users thought they were closing valves, until they hauled and found out nothing was happening.

Just food for thought on the maintenance difference in season. I have no first hand experience, other than a week long charter or two, where I didn't give it much mind. I open and close nearly every bronze seacock every week, as I come and go, which seems to be about all the maintenance they require.


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post #8 of 13 Old 03-16-2012
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Re: Seacocks

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Originally Posted by SkywalkerII View Post
I've always used bronze thru hulls with bronze seacocks.

Have to replace the starboard cockpit drain seacock.

The Marelon valves seem to be smoother and easier to operate. Even when I greased the bronze ones, they were always stiff.
They may seem that way now but may not once they have been in the water for a while, they may not. There are many cases where the valves have had the handles break completely off. I think the newer ones are better, specifically the 93/OEM series. Forespar requires annual greasing an lubrication something that many just won't or don't do.

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Is there any reason I should not put Marelon valve on a bronze mushroom thru hull?
1 - It is a thread mismatch. The thru-hull is NPS (straight thread) and the Marelon valve, if purchased in the US, is NPT or a tapered thread. This goes against ABYC standards though people & builders still do it...

2 - You gain little to no corrosion benefit by threading a Marelon valve onto a bronze thru-hull. If there was a serious DC leak you'd still be in a potential for the bronze to suffer. Personally I find the corrosion issue, IF you use REAL UL Marine bronze parts, is over blown and quite rare. This IS the real benefit to Marelon though!!

I have a box of bronze tapered cone seacocks that came out of a wooden boat built in the 1930's and may have been re-fit in about 1956 but they found no evidence of this. Other than some nasty surface "patina", called Verdegris, which has no effect on the performance of the seacock these valves have ZERO corrosion on them and were in service for at the least 54 years, and if not replaced in the 1950's could be 81 years old.....

3 - In load testing I have conducted the Marelon is considerably less strong than bronze, about half, in a valve on a thru-hull installation...

4 - Valve on thru-hull installations, at least in the smaller sizes like 3/4 & 1", do not meet ABYC strength standards for thru-hulls and seacocks. They should be able to withstand 500 pounds of load at the innermost "hard piping" or the innermost portion of the male adapter/hose barb for 30 seconds. A 3/4" Bronze valve on a thru-hull fails at about 400 pounds, and the same in Marelon fails at under 200 pounds...

5 - If you are buying quality valves such as those by Apollo/Conbraco or Groco the handles may be a little stiffer but they should still open and close for many, many years..



I have no qualms about Marelon IF it is the OEM/93 series, they are excellent seacocks, but the other ones, especially a valve threaded directly on a thru-hull, you'd not personally catch me installing on my own boat...
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Last edited by Maine Sail; 03-16-2012 at 07:46 AM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-16-2012
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Re: Seacocks

Just replaced 3 of the Wilcox-Crittenden bronze tapered valves after 28 years. There was no corrosion, just some wear of the tapered plug and bore preventing a good seal, in turn causing a slow drip from them. They still all turned OK.

There are still 6 of the WC tapered valves working fine. These are the less used ones so have been less subject to wear of the bore.

We'll see how the Groco replacements fare.

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
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post #10 of 13 Old 03-16-2012
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Re: Seacocks

IMHP the Groco BV series are great quality ,can be serviced and are as bullet proof as something can be at a pretty fair price





The handle is the best i have seen in a modern unit
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