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  #1  
Old 03-13-2012
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Rigging replacement priority

I recently purchased a '71 Catalina 22. Very little of the standing rigging looks to have been replaced from original (shrouds only as far as I can tell). It still has the crappy shroud eye bolts with just small washers and no real backing plates. It also appears to have the original stem assembly for the forestay that is inadequate and the backstay is shot. The rest of the shrouds and the forestay itself are serviceable for now, but on the list for replacement. I ordered a new backstay and am trying to prioritize the rest of the standing rigging. As a next step should I (1) do the retrofit for the forestay assembly or (2) replace the backing plates and eyebolts for the shrouds? It is clear from my inspection that the eyebolts to the shrouds are not watertight, as is common with the original hardware (the originals allow the eyebolts to spin and therefore break any watertight seal they may have had). The forestay assembly is still watertight, but the load from the forestay is in a bad spot due to it being forward of the plywood reinforcement and the many holes in the deck at that spot, including those for the pulpit, etc. Any thoughts on which to replace first? Thanks for your input.
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Old 03-14-2012
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Re: Rigging replacement priority

Hookturn, Congratulations on your 22. I had a 1973 (#2317) for many, many years up on San Francisco Bay. I do not know what your budget is like or what the condition of your boat is. (Can you post a couple of photos?) Was the boat trailered or did it spend many years in a salt air environment (like Morrow Bay?). I recommend you join the C22 owners association as it is very active and most helpful. You can probably buy a rigging kit from Catalina Direct. They also sell a chain plate upgrade kit (which consists of larger, beefed up eye-bolts and some massive fender washers.) You do not need to beef up much beyond this as the loads on the rig are not that much. My experience is the wire degrades faster than the chain plates and I did break a headstay once (wire failure). Your eyebolts should not turn – double check their holes for water intrusion and core rot and fix. I would pay particular attention to the mast and boom. Chances are you have galvanic corrosion where stainless steel is in contact with aluminum. Remove all hardware (including things that are pop riveted) and coat the contact areas with Lanocote or Tefgel. The anodizing on the spars has probably worn off. I took this as an opportunity to prime (2-part aluminum primer) and paint with a marine grade enamel. I used a brush and it came out o.k. and I didn’t spend a bundle. You do not have to spend a bundle on refurbishing your rig but you do need to need to do it.
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Old 03-14-2012
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Re: Rigging replacement priority

Thanks George. I will get some pics up hopefully today. The boat has always been trailered. I have chosen and priced all the rigging kits i need from CD. My question at this point is one of priority due to budget. The factory lower shroud eyebolts were produced in such a way that they could turn in the deck. There has clearly been water intrusion through the deck at the lower shroud eyebolts. The new ones from CD do not allow them to turn and as you stated include proper backing plates instead of the small washers installed originally. The upper shroud chainplates look very good and show no signs of water intrusion. Replacing the aluminum spreader bracket with stainless is also on the list as are all new shrouds. Right now I believe that my priorities are either to replace the shroud eyebolts or the forestay assembly. The current forestay assembly has no chainplate and is simply bolted in place with small washers as backing plates. I am leaning heavily toward doing the eyebolts first as I can clearly see that there is water coming in at those points. And the forestay assembly appears to be water tight. Thanks for the advice about the mast and boom and I will go ahead and do as you suggest with the fittings.
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Old 03-14-2012
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Re: Rigging replacement priority

Hookturn, Refresh my memory, the stem fitting is attached with two 3/8 bolts – through bolted? Are the washers “cupped”? This area is solid fiberglass and should be plenty strong, just replace the cupped washers. If you want to beef this area up, I’d recommend epoxy ‘ng 3/16 G-10 (Garolite), redrilling and bolting. This will run you about $50 and is a little on the overkill side IMHO. I wouldn’t use aluminum here as this end of the boat always seems to be damp and aluminum would be subject to galvanic corrosion. If your spreaders are corroding, don’t replace them with Stainless which is way too expensive, heavy, and will subject the sockets to corrosion. The rigging loads here just don’t warrant it. I would consider replacing the 40 year old wire and turnbuckles first. Being a trailer boat, the wire has been coiled and recoiled enumerable times during mast stepping and boat storage. There is the distinct probability that somewhere, over time, a wire got kinked, or strand got dinged or broken which can lead to a failure at the least opportune time (it happened to me). Another important and oft over looked problem waiting to happen is the swing keel cable attachment. Jack the boat up an check it out before you go sailing (not being able to get the boat back on the trailer is a real PITA – again personal experience. Also check out the pivot bushing and locking pin. Either Catalina or Catalina Direct sells some fiberglass shims that you can epoxy into the trunk which goes a long way in keeping the swing keel from slamming around in the trunk. Don’t let this stuff scare you off. The C22 is one of the best boats in its class, ever. In fact, serious C22 racers look for boats of this vintage to race as they are plenty strong and are lighter than their newer brethren.
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Old 03-14-2012
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Re: Rigging replacement priority

George- thanks a ton for the advice. The stem fitting is 4 3/8 through bolts. I am not sure what "cupped" washers are but they are just round washers that aren't very big. And in fact, I answered my own question in terms of priority today. I took the shroud eye bolts off to inspect them better and the one on the port chainplate for the upper shroud broke off with very little pressure. So I guess the new eyebolt kit (upgrading from 3/8 to 1/2) is first on the list. As for the stem fitting, CD has a nice retro kit that uses a turnbuckle from under the deck portion of the fitting attached to the bow eye. I will be doing this next and then replacing the shrouds. I have inspected the keel cable fitting and pivot pin which are serviceable for now, but are certainly on the list of replacements. In fact, the keel needs to be entirely redone. It has some pretty bad rust on it. But for now, the operative parts are in good condition. Thanks again for your help!
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