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Old 03-14-2012
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Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

What is the best sealing compound to use with (under) the keel bolt washers and nuts? I was planning on using 3M 4200, but thought I would ask your opinions.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-14-2012
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Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

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Originally Posted by Ajay73 View Post
What is the best sealing compound to use with (under) the keel bolt washers and nuts? I was planning on using 3M 4200, but thought I would ask your opinions.

Thanks for the help.
That, or equivalent, would be my choice. I used Sikkens 291(?) low adhesion polyurethane (the same kind of sealant).

Don't use 5200 or other "adhesive" poly's - they are very permanent.
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Lightbulb Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

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Originally Posted by Ajay73 View Post
What is the best sealing compound to use with (under) the keel bolt washers and nuts? I was planning on using 3M 4200, but thought I would ask your opinions.

Thanks for the help.
I would not use any sealant under the washers, and if there was a concern about sea water from a normally-wet bilge getting under and around the threads, I would use something like 4200, or similar.

The thing is, you are not sealing out the outside water in any case. That's taken care of by the sealant put in between the top of the keel and the hull mating surface.

(If you are trying to prevent outside water from entering by sealing around those washers, you really DO need to rebed the keel... water that gets in around those big threaded rods will corrode 'em, stainless included.
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Old 03-14-2012
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sealing keel bolts

I use 5200 since that is what came up through the holes when I dropped and resealed the keel. Just took nuts and washers off 4 years later to check for any leakage. Washers came off fine with some putty knife and mallet work. Resealed with 5200 I then cover bolts, nuts and washers sealed to internal bilge fiberglass as originally i had more damage from bilge water than outside water. This was a Don Casey suggestion a long time ago.

Goodwinds
DaveM
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Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

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Originally Posted by olson34 View Post
I would not use any sealant under the washers, and if there was a concern about sea water from a normally-wet bilge getting under and around the threads, I would use something like 4200, or similar.

The thing is, you are not sealing out the outside water in any case. That's taken care of by the sealant put in between the top of the keel and the hull mating surface.

(If you are trying to prevent outside water from entering by sealing around those washers, you really DO need to rebed the keel... water that gets in around those big threaded rods will corrode 'em, stainless included.
Olson, not trying to seal out water coming up through the hull/keel joint. Trying to seal out bilge water(from rain or stuffing box) from seeping down around the keel bolts, below the nut and washer. Unless you seal out the bilge water it will find its way down around the keel bolt.
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Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

After some more looking on the internet I think I'm going to use the polysulfide (like Boatlife). The polyurethanes(4200/5200) are far more permanent than the polysulfides. I plan on resealing the keel bolt nuts and washer each year and I want to be able to remove them without a big effort. I just finished reworking my keel stub on my Catalina 27 and want to be able to keep, as much as possible, water from getting into and around the bolt threads.
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Old 03-15-2012
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Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

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Originally Posted by Ajay73 View Post
After some more looking on the internet I think I'm going to use the polysulfide (like Boatlife). The polyurethanes(4200/5200) are far more permanent than the polysulfides. I plan on resealing the keel bolt nuts and washer each year and I want to be able to remove them without a big effort. I just finished reworking my keel stub on my Catalina 27 and want to be able to keep, as much as possible, water from getting into and around the bolt threads.
The low adhesive variants of polyurethanes like 4200 and SikaFlex 291 are NOT as permanent as polysulfide, trust me. Polysulfides must be treated as permanent when you use them. I speak from experience that hammers and chisels (or explosives) are the only things that will remove pieces bedded with them. I have never once removed a piece bedded in polysulfide that didn't cause serious damage to either the piece, the substrate or both.
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I wasn't specific about what I cover the bolt, nuts and washers and seal to the bilge with. I use thickened epoxy. It does a good job of keeping the bilge water out. Chips off easily with hammer and chisel in future inspections.

Goodwinds
DaveM
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Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

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The low adhesive variants of polyurethanes like 4200 and SikaFlex 291 are NOT as permanent as polysulfide, trust me. Polysulfides must be treated as permanent when you use them. I speak from experience that hammers and chisels (or explosives) are the only things that will remove pieces bedded with them. I have never once removed a piece bedded in polysulfide that didn't cause serious damage to either the piece, the substrate or both.
According to this article the polysulfides are removable and polyurethane are less removable.

What Sealant Do You Need? by Don Casey

The 4200 may be less permanent than a 5200 but it is still a polyurethane.

There is this discussion as well.

http://www.mv-dreamer.com/SyntheticR...veSealants.htm

Last edited by Ajay73; 03-15-2012 at 07:16 PM.
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Re: Sealing Keel Bolt Washers and Nuts

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Originally Posted by Ajay73 View Post
According to this article the polysulfides are removable and polyurethane are less removable.

What Sealant Do You Need? by Don Casey

The 4200 may be less permanent than a 5200 but it is still a polyurethane.
I know about what Casey said - I have his books. When first I read that bit about sealants I said to myself "has he ever USED Thiokol?" I used gallons of it on my first boatbuilding project - flush teak deck etc. I found the stuff to be indestructible without serious tools. The low adhesion polyurethanes can be cut & peeled & scraped loose reasonably easily in my experience.

Two things to keep in mind - Casey is not perfect - his "gasket" method of sealing hardware is pretty discredited in favour of the countersink O-ring method and Thiokol was developed initially for bridge expansion joints - you decide what that means in terms of ease of disassembly.
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