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  #1  
Old 03-15-2012
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Pipe to hose to muffler

For the last two sails I noticed a drip coming from where an exhaust hose attaches to the exhaust pipe and to the muffler.
The setup goes like this:
1&5/8" OD pipe goes from manifold, turns up 90 degrees for a couple of feet, then turns 90 degrees for a few inches where the exhaust water is injected into the exhaust. Then the pipe turns 90 degrees down for a couple of inches (a short piece of pipe with threads on each end) and has a 1&5/8" ID exhaust hose that attaches to the muffler. The muffler flanges however measure only 1 &1/2"OD.
After removing the muffler I found the wooden platform it sits on to be completely rotted, probably from a leak around the fittings undetected until my recent discovery.

It seems to me that there should have been a pipe thread to hose nipple used instead of a short piece of pipe with threads on each end. Is that right?
And is this where the ID goes to 1&1/2"?

Or is it OK to put a 1&5/8" ID hose on a 1&1/2" OD flange on a muffler? It seems to me that there would be the possibility of a CO leak right into the cabin of the boat.

While I'm doing this, I would like to get it right. Any help will be appreciated.
John

p.s. It is an Atomic Four that the PO overhauled before I bought the boat.
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Old 03-15-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

This sounds like a bit of a cobbled-together setup, but should work as long as the piping is sound and the joints sealed tight. An old 1 5/8s hose on a 1 1/2 spigot (I'm guessing it's not really a flange) is pushing it a bit, depending on the type of hose it may or may not take up with hose clamps. Also since hoses come in even sizes ID (1", 1 1/4" etc ) and pipe is sized by iD & schedule the OD of pipe and the ID of hose rarely properly match. A proper barbed hosebib would be much better than hose on pipe threads. Pipe threads themselves can be a 'spiral leak path' in some cases.

Fabricating the metal sections out of thick wall tubing is a better bet. Tubing is sized by OD, so 1 1/2" tubing will exactly match 1 1/2" ID hose. However this would require a welder since tubing shouldn't be threaded.

You are right to worry about exhaust gases entering below due to leakage. While a hose/pipe leak is likely, so too is enough corrosion at the mixing elbow to make the pipe somewhat 'porous'.. we've just gone through that, and replaced our 'dry pipe section' with SS tubing and a new injection elbow.
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Old 03-16-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

I'm pretty sure the exhaust arrangement on your Atomic 4 is similar to that on the Universal 5411 on my previous boat. That is 1 1/4 inch NPS black iron pipe and fittings making up the loop then to 1 1/2 inch exhaust hose to connect to the waterlift muffler. I replaced the piping once in twenty years of ownership and never had an issue with the hose connections.
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Old 03-16-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

Since you have a gasoline engine, get a carbon monoxide detector and mount it in the cabin. Its cheap, less than $30 on Amazon, and it's great insurance for anyone napping below. The smartest thing I did; it went off while my daughter was sleeping below and let me know I had a problem with the exhaust manifold.
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Old 03-24-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

CCRiders, I am currently going through the exact same thing on a C-30 with an A4. I replaced the exhaust flange with a new one from Moyer, and it was 1 1/4" NPT. I then pieced together a 316 SS setup that, along with another fitting to attach the water feed, ends with a threaded 1 1/4" SS pipe. I then bought Shieldsflex II wet exhaust hose and ran it from the stern to the muffler location. The hose only comes in 12.5' rolls so it took two. I am going to connect the two in the middle with PVC pipe. (The water at this point is cool). So, my problem is the same, I have a 1 1/2" inlet/outlet on my waterlift muffler and a threaded pipe that is 1 1/2" but with an OD of 1 9/16...

Tomorrow, I am going to purchase 1' of 1 9/16 or 1 5/8 hose from west marine, coat the threads with 3M PN67 Scotch weld and double clamp them. (I have double reverse clamped all my exhaust lines. If you are still having this issue, let me know and I will tell you how it turns out. I don't see it as an issue if sealed properly. Apparently, on my boat, this was done a long time ago and only recently started to leak due to the cheap steel pipe they used corroding. If you come up with a better idea, let me know. AR
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

Fordo, Deisels emit carbon monoxide too... Rephrased; Since you have an internal combustion engine, you should get a carbon monoxide detector....just trying to prevent yet another rumor that A4's are the devil. AR
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Old 05-21-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

Jim, I just purchased a 1982 Cal 9.2 that has the 5411 and the exhaust piping is totally corroded. Do you know what the length of the iron piping was when you replaced it and whether you had to cut it to fit? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-21-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timsheehan81 View Post
Jim, I just purchased a 1982 Cal 9.2 that has the 5411 and the exhaust piping is totally corroded. Do you know what the length of the iron piping was when you replaced it and whether you had to cut it to fit? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi! Good luck with the 9.2. It's a great sailing boat. Had mine for 20 years.

I bought all the pieces from Home Depot. Basically four 90 degree elbows, a tee, and nipples. My notes show a close nipple out of the engine to the elbow, a 4 inch nipple up, then an elbow/close nipple/elbow to make a 180 turn down, then a 6 inch nipple to the tee for the cooling water entry, then a close nipple to the last elbow with a short nipple at the outlet to allow clamping the exhaust hose. A reducer and nipple or hose barb is needed for connecting the cooling water hose to the tee.
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Old 05-21-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

It sure makes sense to build the unit from standard NPT parts.Use a good never seize to plug the threads for gas leaks .If it starts from a flange I make a short spool flange to flange fitting so the manifold bolts are permanent and re and re starts at the other end of the flange.Hot salt water eats the metal so having a complete spare and gaskets is good planning. I install a 1/2 " ball valve in the side of the aqualift to drain to bilge when I leave the boat.
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Old 05-21-2012
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Re: Pipe to hose to muffler

btw - hose does come in longer lengths, but maybe not from West Marine though -

http://www.greenlinehose.com/_pdf/hose/9.Marine.pdf
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