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post #1 of 11 Old 03-21-2012 Thread Starter
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port light material

I need to replace a portlight on my c&c 30 mrk 1, and need to find a vendor who has materials in sheets so i can template and cut a replacement. anyone have any leads on where I should look? thanks in advance.....
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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port light material

South Shore Yachts in Canada has the windows for C&Cs

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Re: port light material

thanks, checked out the site and will be calling them in the am!
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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Re: port light material

Cheap they aren't! If you end up buying raw material and cutting it yourself, I seem to recall you need cast acrylic.

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post #5 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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Re: port light material

Any plastics supply outfit should have the acrylic material in several degrees of 'smoked' variations. Don't be afraid to choose the darkest of the tones.. it will appear clear from below and offer maximum privacy during daytime.. but be equally transparent from above when the boat's lit in the dark..

Ron

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".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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Re: port light material

The cast stuff is supposed to be better. The acrylic generally cheaper, weaker, but more scratch resistant than polycarbonates.

But if you browse the web sites from PP&G, GE, Rohm & Haas, the big companies that each make at least two dozen grades of the stuff, you may find the choices are interesting. At least, far wider than you'll find if you just go to a local glazier and say you want plastic.
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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Re: port light material

We paid $200/window a few years back from Southshore plus $115/tube for Plexus MA590 two part glue. I think we could have bought a 4 x 8 sheet for less than that. They were not cast acrylic and considering the price I think we could have done better elsewhere by making our own templates and having them cut at an acrylic shop. But they did turn out nice. You will have to final fit them before dry fit and installation. I'm with Faster on going direct to supplier and color choice.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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Re: port light material

What's cast acrylic? I've never heard of that.
I'm going to be doing all four of my house windows when it warms up this spring, if spring ever arrives.
The price difference for Industrial Plastics and Paints to custom cut is just a few dollars compared to South Shore Yachts prices. Expensive but comparable.
I am the second owner of my boat but this will be the third repair on the windows. It has made me think of a better way.
When I replace my windows I am going to have some S/S frames made. They will be no more than 2" wide, 3/16" thick and overlap the window and the fiberglass.
I will have S/S studs welded on the back say every 4-6 inches and this, with lots of sealant will allow me to clamp the light into the opening. It will also allow me to suck down the frame and help stop inevitable leaks in the future.
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Re: port light material

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Originally Posted by Dog Ship View Post
......
When I replace my windows I am going to have some S/S frames made. They will be no more than 2" wide, 3/16" thick and overlap the window and the fiberglass.
I will have S/S studs welded on the back say every 4-6 inches and this, with lots of sealant will allow me to clamp the light into the opening. It will also allow me to suck down the frame and help stop inevitable leaks in the future.
Have seen many C&Cs retrofitted with frames like you plan.. if polished up it looks pretty good, and done right it ought to be for the last time.

A couple of thoughts, though:

Acrylic expands and contracts much more than fiberglass (one of the reasons this combination is so difficult to keep sealed - a 4 ft long window can grow and contract perhaps 1/4 inch or more in seasonal extremes) so be sure to allow for that expansion or the new lens may crack from the stresses involved.

When your studs pass through into the cabin how are you going to be certain not to crush/crack the liner? It's likely quite thin and may have clearance between it and the inner deck mould surface.. watch for that.

I'd also suggest using a sealant like DC 795 - good results historically and if things do go wrong and you're looking at a redo at some point that will be much easier to remove/clean out than some of the pricey superglue stuff that C&C used in the first place. And it's a fraction of the cost.

Good luck!

btw we had ports custom cut at Coast Fibertek in Burnaby using old ones as templates.. similar to yours but larger/longer and I think it was less than $300 for the lot. Not sure how that compares to South Shore but it may be worth a trip, or at least a call.

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)

Last edited by Faster; 03-21-2012 at 10:24 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-21-2012
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Re: port light material

Hey Faster,

Kinda hijacking a post again but,
I think that I should be able to get enough pressure agains't the light without compromising the fiberglass to create a good seal. I also plan on putting 2" strip teak on the inside to help hide the nuts but keep them accessible.
It won't take to much "even" pressure to create a seal. I think the trick is to not tighten the proposed frame down until the sealant has almost set. This will preserve some thickness and then once it is set tighten the nuts to say 10 or 15 in/lbs.
This will create a gasket that can be squeezed tighter over time.

The light will be floating freely. The studs will not go thrugh the light, only the fiberglass. This will allow the light to expand and contract freely of the frame and boat.

Last edited by Dog Ship; 03-21-2012 at 10:41 PM. Reason: forgot
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