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  #1  
Old 03-25-2012
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Shaft Question

The following are pictures from my friends O'day I took today.
I helped him remove the shaft.
He is planning on keeping the shaft and flange.
I did talk him into replacing the hose on the stuffing box but the
Stuffing box itself
bronze shaft with the serious scores between the cutlass bearing and the prop and the rusted flange he intends to keep.

Would you consider this a mistake as he has the engine out and the boat is in a garage where it is easy work on.

There are two pictures of the flange, before and after it was wire brushed.
The shaft seems very tight in the cutlass bearing so that seems OK.

Buy the way if you do decide to replace some of these parts where do you buy them?
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Shaft Question-p3250001-small-.jpg   Shaft Question-p3250004-small-.jpg   Shaft Question-p3250006-small-.jpg   Shaft Question-p3250005-small-.jpg   Shaft Question-p3250002-small-.jpg  

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Old 03-25-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

Other than the hose & packing look good! Most of the marks are from prop removal..Dale
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

You should look for scoring where the flax rides on the shaft. If this is badly worn, it will be difficult to control seepage.

To replace the hose connecting the stuffing box to the stern tube you will probably need to remove the flange unless the engine is out and the shaft can be pulled forward. Pulling the flange can be a real bear. Don't cut off the old hose until you know how you're going to fit the replacement.
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

davidpm posted that the engine was out.
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hudsonian View Post
You should look for scoring where the flax rides on the shaft. If this is badly worn, it will be difficult to control seepage.

To replace the hose connecting the stuffing box to the stern tube you will probably need to remove the flange unless the engine is out and the shaft can be pulled forward. Pulling the flange can be a real bear. Don't cut off the old hose until you know how you're going to fit the replacement.
That part is easy as the engine is out and we already got the shaft out of the boat but thanks for the warning.

I was going to suggest that he pull the flange from the shaft as it will be easy to do it now even though it is rusted on.
But I got to thinking that if he as problems in the future he is almost certainly going to just cut the shaft and replace it with SS. and hopefully that will be years from now.
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

David,
I'm just a bit ahead of you and your friend with the O'Day. We replaced our bronze shaft with a new SS shaft (around $225), Cutless bearing and shaft log hose. We re-used our coupling and stuffing box. Your friends coupling looks pretty rusty.
Most of those parts will clean up under a wire wheel fairly easily.
If his shaft is as worn as ours was I'd suggest replacing it.
Our drive train project documented here: 2011, November 30th. Begin drive train rebuild | Odalisque
We are mostly done with the drive train except a final alignment once she is in the water again. The hardest part is taking it all apart. Putting it back together was relatively simple.

Edit to add: Our shaft had likely seen 43 years of service so it was time to replace it.
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Last edited by CalebD; 03-26-2012 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

The shaft at the prop nut end looks to be suffering quite badly from dezincification...

If there is any wear on the shaft and dezincification is present replace it. If you remove that coupling you will almost certainly NEED to replace it. Straight couplings need to be a light press / interference fit.... Even the smallest layer of rust broken free changes this from an interference fit to a clearance fit. Clearance fit = BAD...... I suspect your friend is being penny wise pound foolish.... Those old Tobin bronze shafts had lots of zinc in them. When they turn coppery colored, like the nut end of that shaft, they are usually toast.
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Old 03-26-2012
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Re: Shaft Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
The shaft at the prop nut end looks to be suffering quite badly from dezincification...

If there is any wear on the shaft and dezincification is present replace it. If you remove that coupling you will almost certainly NEED to replace it. Straight couplings need to be a light press / interference fit.... Even the smallest layer of rust broken free changes this from an interference fit to a clearance fit. Clearance fit = BAD...... I suspect your friend is being penny wise pound foolish.... Those old Tobin bronze shafts had lots of zinc in them. When they turn coppery colored, like the nut end of that shaft, they are usually toast.
That sure sounds right.
If the bronze is dezincified then I suspect that what happens is that flange just falls off the crumbled shaft.
Is that about right.
If not what is the likely mode of failure?
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