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post #1 of 9 Old 04-02-2012 Thread Starter
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glueing teflon

My main hatch has two plastic strips mounted on the bottom to reduce friction. They look like teflon. One has become unglued. The other is still attached after 35 years. Any ideas for what would glue teflon. BTW there is not enough thickness to put screws in from the bottom, and I would rather not have screw heads on the top.
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-02-2012
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glueing teflon

My understanding is that if it is glued, it is not teflon. I don't think anything sticks to it.
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: glueing teflon

Just guessing but could it be Nylon?
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: glueing teflon

I'd try west system G-flex on it. But year it's probably not teflon. Prolly 'starboard'
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: glueing teflon

Doubt that it 'teflon' if it is 'glued'. Such 'low surface energy' polymers are very DIFFICULT to 'glue'.

Probably what you have is UHMWPE - ultra high molecular weight polyethylene ... but you need special acrylic based 'glues' now offered by 3M (ScotchWeld, etc.) ... that are specifically formulated for UHMWPE and other low surface energy plastics.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: glueing teflon

Sorry, google Glue teflon" and you'll get reltekllc and some other folks that make the prodcts that do this. You can also buy teflon "draw slides", i.e. lengths of teflon strip that have adhesive already on one side, designed to make it easier to make draws slide.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-02-2012
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Re: glueing teflon

Teflon can be glued but it takes special primers and surface prep to make it stick. most likely it is a UHMW or HDPE plastic which also can be glued with the right adhesive. how thick is the strip? this material is also availible with a self stick adhesive in some thicknesses. if it is 35 years old then it may be nylon

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post #8 of 9 Old 04-02-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: glueing teflon

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if it is 35 years old then it may be nylon
That's true. Some of these letter-soup plastics probably had not been formulated in the mid 1970's. I assume nylon would also be a PITA.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-03-2012
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Re: glueing teflon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barquito View Post
That's true. Some of these letter-soup plastics probably had not been formulated in the mid 1970's. I assume nylon would also be a PITA.
Teflon is polytetrafluoroethylene. If memory serves, it was discovered by accident in the late 30's and was first marketed by Dupont in the 40s. Chemically, it is a long polymer with a carbon core surrounded by Fluorine atoms (the component elements of the polymer are all CF2=CF2). The Fluorine makes it strongly hydrophobic and oleophobic (repels water and fatty organic compounds) and has a relatively low coefficient of friction. The strong double bond between the carbons combines with the regular arrangement of the Fluorine atoms to cancel the dipole forces, so Teflon is almost inert. Those properties, combined with its high density and long chain length, makes it ideal for a wide range of applications, including sliding surfaces.

Now, having gotten through all the chemical gobbledegook, it is important to point out that while Teflon repels water and organic materials and is almost inert, it is not completely inert and can be glued with special glues that bond nicely with it. Someone already mentioned the Reltek brand, which works. I'll also mention that there are some formulations of Cyanoacrylate glues that also work and are much easier to find. One example of a Cyanoacrylate glue is Superglue. Note that Cyanoacrylate glues are very brittle and are not appropriate for applications that require some flexing. Likewise, they are not waterproof. If you think the slides are going to get soaked, it is not the right thing to use. However, whether soaking or not happens depends on the design of the hatch.

If you decide to try a Cyanoacrylate glue, look for a version that says it bonds "all plastics." Rough up both surfaces before applying and clean the dust off with denatured alcohol. Let the alcohol evaporate completely, then apply. Press in place and hold for 1 minute. It is completely cured in 5 minutes, typically.

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