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  #21  
Old 04-14-2012
sunfish?junior?
 
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

As a pipe welder let me take a stab at it for Chris First of all the metal alloy must have zink and have less than it started with. Easy to figure out just from the word. Now lets start looking at some real world seen it kind of thing. Brass has zink. Brass valves will get this in two ways one is a plug dezincifcation. just like it sounds a pulg hole eats out you get a weep hole in the valve this is bad worst case. Fix a small hole braze it up and soon out pops a new hole in a new place. Just a poor quailty day. Little can be done hope you can keep going untill you can shut down and make a repair replacing valve asap. Broad surface decay dezincafcation is even pitting over the entire area could be more in high flow turbulent areas. You might polish this out and get more use this is not as bad. Both can have micro cracks but plug type will be deeper. White surface oxide is a big clue this is going on. Some of the new brass alloys have less zink and will stand up much longer. a real enginer might talk about ph levels, ( salt) flow, stagnation, temp, other factors. adjust them and you can extend the life and use valve with broad surface uniform corosion. Lots of salt will lead to plug type more than the other factors! The Kicker here is I speak of a brass valve and opinion. A brass valve is not a prop on a boat and it dose not spin. Still I think I have put some good views in this thread. Butterflys causing tusnmia joke?

Last edited by Lou452; 04-14-2012 at 01:14 AM. Reason: grammer
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  #22  
Old 04-14-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

Newporter mike: Nice boat sounds like you are blessed. Prop is small potatoes We will just use hot air to power up. I want to help you with that prop Minnwaska good link to that shop
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Old 04-14-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
This is important to me, because I don't know about you, but I never run out of hardenerat the end of a project, always in the middle.
And why is it that it's always hardener that comes up short?
Do you use graduated Dixie cups to apportion your resin & hardener? I do and I have found the graduations aren't adjusted to account for the taper in the cup. If I put the hardener in the bottom of the cup and then the resin I'll end up with excess hardener. If the hardener goes on top, I run out of it - there is that much difference in the volume top to bottom in those cups. It isn't enough to affect the cure but it does mean you have leftovers of one or the other component at the end of a kit.

Once I discovered this, I just reversed the layering from one batch to the next and I generally don't end up with any significant leftovers.
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Old 04-14-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

I use pumps. Before I start slathering the project at hand, I grab the can of hardener and/or resin and give it a heft. It always FEELS like I will have enough, but then I go to mix the batch for the second coat, and *splut* *splutter* juuuusssttttt enough, definitely not enough for coat number 3. Off to the store while coat 2 kicks, and I'm back in action. With any other epoxy, I'm waiting at least 5 days for it to show up at the front door.
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Old 04-14-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

Tap the prop with a wrinch or small hammer. The prop should ring, if a dull thud, you need another prop. The problem is dezincafication

Do not use a fresh water prop in salt water
The problem with brass instead of bronze

http://www.michel-christen.com/2T-H.pdf
Through hull failures with brass
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Old 04-14-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

LakeSuperiorgeezer, The link you have put in is very good also. Lots of good info on that sight. May I guess you are in the no epoxy club?
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou452 View Post
LakeSuperiorgeezer, The link you have put in is very good also. Lots of good info on that sight. May I guess you are in the no epoxy club?
I don't know because not enough troubleshooting has been done on the prop. If there is dezincification, the epoxy, even though it is wonder product for may things, will not be up to fixing the prop. Also, what material is the prop made of because brass will have stress in any welds that are done and has to be heat-treated. Nickel aluminum bronze welds ok without stress relief. Come to think of it the nickel aluminum bronze has no zinc in it so dezincification is not possible and is my choice for a propeller. Is there any pink discoloration from dezincification?

By the way, do not use a slide hammer to remove the propeller or propeller shaft. You can destroy the transmission. There are pullers specifically designed for propeller removal that are rather inexpensive and do a good job of getting the prop off.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 04-14-2012 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 04-19-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

Thanks all. It is a max prop...so replacing it is very expensive. There are some corroded areas, they don't look too bad. Perhaps the Petit zinc barnacle paint is a good reccomendation. Or should I just run it for the season, see how it performs and think about getting a fixed prop next year?
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

I just use it when there is no wind!!! So it does not get a lot of use but I will be going on a three day cruise from Boston to Newport and need to know that it won't let me down.
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Old 04-19-2012
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Re: Epoxy on the prop?

The folks at PYI (MaxProp) are outstanding. Just pack it up and ship it to them and they will weld back whatever it needs. It takes a couple of weeks unless you tell them you're in a hurry. You definitely can't mess with the balance on a feathering prop.
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