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  • 1 Post By svHyLyte
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Old 04-14-2012
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Hot water heater re-commissioning

Beneteau 32s5 I'm getting ready to put in water.

I'm at the point where I'm reconnecting all the hoses that were taken off for winterizing.

When I looked at the hot water heater there was only one hose that I could see that was disconnected.
The one on the right that is connected in this picture I just put on. By the location and length of the hose it seems to be the right place.

The hose on the left however is connected but the fitting looks like it will fit the connection just behind it.

I'm not sure how all of this is supposed to work but if I disconnect it from where it currently is and move it to the fitting behind then I will have the hose coming from the top not connected to anything.

Does that seem right to you?
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Old 04-14-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

The hose on the "right" appears to be the outlet from a T/P (Temperature/Pressure) relief valve - not sure why that one was disconnected in the first place? If you follow it, it should wind up in the bilge area, and should remain the same diameter as the valve outlet itself (so as not to restrict relief (blow-off) flow. The two hoses on the left are impossible to call without a broader view of exactly what they are connected to?
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Old 04-15-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

As noted above, it looks like the hose on the right you connected is the T&P valve. Normally will have no hose on it or one run to the bilge. I think you need to swap the one on the left to the center hose and put the one from the T&P valve on the left as it looks like it has a hose bib, not a threaded connection.
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Old 04-15-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

Yes, I agree with JimsCal ..... It looks like the T&P outlet didn't have a hose attached.

The hose you have connected to it now, connects to the hose on the left with the sleeve.

And the threaded fittings connect to each other.

Wthout being able to see where they come from and go.... That's just a guess.

I'm trying to remember if I have a hose connected to my Pressure relief valve...I think it's bare and would just blow down into the locker.
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Old 04-15-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Beneteau 32s5 I'm getting ready to put in water.

I'm at the point where I'm reconnecting all the hoses that were taken off for winterizing.

When I looked at the hot water heater there was only one hose that I could see that was disconnected.
The one on the right that is connected in this picture I just put on. By the location and length of the hose it seems to be the right place.

The hose on the left however is connected but the fitting looks like it will fit the connection just behind it.

I'm not sure how all of this is supposed to work but if I disconnect it from where it currently is and move it to the fitting behind then I will have the hose coming from the top not connected to anything.

Does that seem right to you?
Assuming you have the typical Raritan 1700 Water Heater, there are only 5 lines normally connected to the heater. A cold water input, near the bottom of the tank that is connected to a line running from a manifold on the output side of the pressure pump, a hot water out line at the top of the tank in the vicinity of the pressure relief valve, normally a drain line connected to the pressure relief valve itself to divert water to the bilge and in-put/out-put lines that can be connected to a loop from the fresh-water side of the engine cooling system. The hot water out-put line is normally connected to a manifold that has two or three outputs, one each for the galley and the head/heads (if one has two) or the on-deck fresh water rinse if one has one, normally located on/near the transom. The line you show in the photograph is the typical fitting for the input/output lines for fresh water, either feed water or output (note that the threads are metric). If you know the feed water is connected from the pressure pump, you can determine which fixture that line serves by opening all of the hot water fixtures on the boat and placing the bell of a pressurized horn over the end of the fitting an giving the horn a short blast. A helper can tell you which fixtures report a gush of air from the horn.

One thing you might want to think about is the condition of the contents of the tank itself. For more on that subject see Raritan 1700 Series HW Heater - Cruisers & Sailing Forums
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Last edited by svHyLyte; 04-15-2012 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 04-15-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by svHyLyte View Post
Assuming you have the typical Raritan 1700 Water Heater, there are only 5 lines normally connected to the heater.
Thanks for that clear explanation. The horn trick is something I would not have thought of.

I found the manual for the heater that confirmed what you said, of course.

I also found instructions on how to disassemble the cabinet to see what is going on better.

I also noticed advice in the manual that recommended that you run the hot water side until it stop sputtering to be sure their are no air bubbles in the line. Air bubbles in the tank might make the heater element burn up if it is turned on.

Last edited by davidpm; 04-15-2012 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 04-16-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
Thanks for that clear explanation. The horn trick is something I would not have thought of.

I found the manual for the heater that confirmed what you said, of course.

I also found instructions on how to disassemble the cabinet to see what is going on better.

I also noticed advice in the manual that recommended that you run the hot water side until it stop sputtering to be sure their are no air bubbles in the line. Air bubbles in the tank might make the heater element burn up if it is turned on.
David--

Air in the tank is a definite PITA for several reasons. Running the fixtures will eventually get most of the air out. One can also trip the pressure relief valve, near the top of the tank, for a few seconds until one gets a steady flow from the relief drain line, which tends to resolve the problem a bit faster. To prevent the mess of flying water when bleeding the lines, we slip a short length of over-size hose around the spout on the galley fixture that directs the flow into a teapot (no point in wasting the water). If we get more than a tea-pot full, we dump the excess in one of the heads to give them a rinse.

Inspect your water-lines from your tanks to the pressure pump. If they do not have shut-off valves that you can reach easily, consider adding them. Without the in-line valves, when one is on a long board, the tank on the windward side of the yacht will tend to drain to lee-ward and, if you are low on water, may allow air to enter the feed lines. We also use the valves to control which tank we draw water from to help trim the boat; switching from tank to tank as necessary; and, to avoid the possibility that a leak in one tank or line could cause us to loose our entire supply.

FWIW...
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Old 04-17-2012
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Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning

Thank you all for your explanations. Once I got the furniture disassembled the hose connections were obvious. They could only go one way.
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