Old as Dirt!
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa Bay Area
Thanked 143 Times in 136 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Re: Hot water heater re-commissioning
Thanks for that clear explanation. The horn trick is something I would not have thought of.
I found the manual for the heater that confirmed what you said, of course.
I also found instructions on how to disassemble the cabinet to see what is going on better.
I also noticed advice in the manual that recommended that you run the hot water side until it stop sputtering to be sure their are no air bubbles in the line. Air bubbles in the tank might make the heater element burn up if it is turned on.
Air in the tank is a definite PITA for several reasons. Running the fixtures will eventually get most of the air out. One can also trip the pressure relief valve, near the top of the tank, for a few seconds until one gets a steady flow from the relief drain line, which tends to resolve the problem a bit faster. To prevent the mess of flying water when bleeding the lines, we slip a short length of over-size hose around the spout on the galley fixture that directs the flow into a teapot (no point in wasting the water). If we get more than a tea-pot full, we dump the excess in one of the heads to give them a rinse.
Inspect your water-lines from your tanks to the pressure pump. If they do not have shut-off valves that you can reach easily, consider adding them. Without the in-line valves, when one is on a long board, the tank on the windward side of the yacht will tend to drain to lee-ward and, if you are low on water, may allow air to enter the feed lines. We also use the valves to control which tank we draw water from to help trim the boat; switching from tank to tank as necessary; and, to avoid the possibility that a leak in one tank or line could cause us to loose our entire supply.
"It is not so much for its beauty that the sea makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from the waves, that so wonderfully renews a weary spirit."