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post #11 of 23 Old 04-21-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Epoxy

A brochure from West System used to describe using epoxy to fill rotted wood in a cored deck. The described drilling numerous small holes and using a heat gun to dry the rotted wood thru the holes. You then used a syringe (from McMaster Carr or Jamestown Distributors) to inject epoxy. I'd use the low viscosity epoxy (Git Rot). I have a countertop that has a rotted spot in my boat due to a leaking hatch that I intend to repair this way. It is not structural so it should work.
On a much larger scale, I own a 100 yr old log cabin in Wyoming with rotted spots on the bottom logs. Instead of removing the bottom logs, I intend to inject them with about 5 gallons of Git Rot or similar stuff.
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post #12 of 23 Old 04-21-2012
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Re: Epoxy

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Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
UF (Weldwood Plastic Resin) glue works great and is as waterproof as you will ever need. The only reason it is not classified as waterproof is because it fails a boiling test required for the official rating of "waterproof". As long as you never boil your boat, it will work just fine.

It requires tight, clamped joints though, which epoxy doesn't. One of epoxy's greatest attributes is that it is very forgiving of sloppy fits.
UF glue, resorcinol, and epoxy are all good glues if attaching wood to wood. As said the joints have to be close to perfect with all but epoxy.

But epoxy is unique as it does it all. If glues wood to wood, wood to fiberglass, wets out cloth/roving for laminating, encapsulates wood in cold molded construction, can be thickened with many fillers to be a smooth fairing compound or made thick enough to form shapes for various applications. It is the best waterproof coating we have for both fiberglass boats and wooden boats. G10 is a sheet made of epoxy and fiberglass cloth/roving and is probably the toughest strongest sheet material available short of steel or aluminum.
I don't know of any product as versatile.

ps Sloop - the boiling test is a method of accelerated testing designed to compare to long term immersion. How many days or months of wetness equals 1 hour of boiling?

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post #13 of 23 Old 04-23-2012
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Re: Epoxy

The perimeters of my anchor well and anchor well hath cover are rotted (the plywood core edges were apparently never sealed well with epoxy. My thought is to romove all the rotted core until I hit solid wood (estimate will need to remove about 2 inches around the perimeter of the anchor well and the hatch cover), then fill this void with epoxy with some added strands of glass cloth.

See any problem with the elimination of the deck core and making it solid glass? This would also water proof the edges.

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post #14 of 23 Old 04-23-2012
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Re: Epoxy

I think the forum mods should make this thread a "sticky".

AH HAHAHAHAHA!

Sorry...couldn't resist.

It's not whether you're paranoid...it's whether you're paranoid enough.

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post #15 of 23 Old 04-23-2012
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Re: Epoxy

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Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
The perimeters of my anchor well and anchor well hath cover are rotted (the plywood core edges were apparently never sealed well with epoxy. My thought is to romove all the rotted core until I hit solid wood (estimate will need to remove about 2 inches around the perimeter of the anchor well and the hatch cover), then fill this void with epoxy with some added strands of glass cloth.

See any problem with the elimination of the deck core and making it solid glass? This would also water proof the edges.

Regards
No problem at all. The reason solid glass isn't used for decks is cost & weight - the tiny bit of additional weight you are talking about is of no consequence.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #16 of 23 Old 04-23-2012
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Re: Epoxy

"Some people develop a sort of allergy to epoxy; thank god this hasn't happed to me yet.
OH, the best thing for getting uncured epoxy off your hands is that stuff called "Fast Orange"."

Prevention is better than cure. Minimising your exposure will help prevent any allergies from developing - especially try to avoid skin contact. Latex gloves are the way to go.
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post #17 of 23 Old 05-09-2012
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Re: Epoxy

Fast Orange works great on paint and varnish on your hands, too btw. It's also good for getting grease and paint off carpet and upholstery. Doesn't half strip the moisture out of your hands though.

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post #18 of 23 Old 05-09-2012
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Re: Epoxy

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Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
UF glue, resorcinol, and epoxy are all good glues if attaching wood to wood. As said the joints have to be close to perfect with all but epoxy.

But epoxy is unique as it does it all. If glues wood to wood, wood to fiberglass, wets out cloth/roving for laminating, encapsulates wood in cold molded construction, can be thickened with many fillers to be a smooth fairing compound or made thick enough to form shapes for various applications. It is the best waterproof coating we have for both fiberglass boats and wooden boats. G10 is a sheet made of epoxy and fiberglass cloth/roving and is probably the toughest strongest sheet material available short of steel or aluminum.
I don't know of any product as versatile.

ps Sloop - the boiling test is a method of accelerated testing designed to compare to long term immersion. How many days or months of wetness equals 1 hour of boiling?
I once left laminated beams, laminated with UF glue, submerged for two years in a bucket of water. It never let go nor weakened in any noticeable way.

Brent Swain, Boat designer, Builder, and author of "Origami Metal Boatbuilding"
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post #19 of 23 Old 05-09-2012
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Re: Epoxy

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Originally Posted by Brent Swain View Post
I once left laminated beams, laminated with UF glue, submerged for two years in a bucket of water. It never let go nor weakened in any noticeable way.
I know resorcinal is very waterproof - Larry Pardey prefers it to epoxy. But I didn't think UF was that waterproof. I have used it but not for years, probably before I started using epoxy and that was over 20 years ago.

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post #20 of 23 Old 05-09-2012
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Re: Epoxy

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Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
I know resorcinal is very waterproof - Larry Pardey prefers it to epoxy. But I didn't think UF was that waterproof. I have used it but not for years, probably before I started using epoxy and that was over 20 years ago.
I've used a lot of Weldwood Plastic Resin UF glue - I once worked for Weldwood. It is very good stuff but, as noted, likes tight joints, although not as tight as Resorcinal demands. I never had a glue failure with it but I also never left it soaking for years. Water cleanup is one of its nice features.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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