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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)
Your best bet? Is to find out what the plastic is. Any local plastics shop can tell you if it is acrylic or polycarbonate. A touch of solvent will show which one it is immediately, also a scraping that is burned should show up differently. No big deal.
If it looks crummy, replace it. If it is something terribly dear like 1/2" thick real Lexan...you can want to just polish it out (or have them buff it up) and keep it.
Can you reinstall it? Well, it shouldn't have just been glued in. Usually a frame is made up around it, or the glazing set into the frame, with a caulking or seal that is designed to flex and expand as the glazing does. If it can't move, it will craze.
Then you've got a small problem, if the caulking you use is not designed to work with the plastic (sometimes a primer is required) it won't stick, and it will leak. Not good.
So the best bet is to find out what plastic you've got, find out what sealant is correct for it and confirm that with the mfr. or label. And then to reset/rebed the glazing the way it was supposed to be seated.
If the hatch comes off, it might pay to just take the whole thing in to a plastics shop and say "takee fixee" but I'd still confirm that they're going to use the right materials. When this stuff is done right, you only need to do it ONCE.
How the kids managed to kick in a hatch, which is supposed to be as strong as the hull...I'm not sure I want to know. Makes you wonder, if the hatch itself should be upgraded, if there's any chance of being caught out in wx.