rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is) - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 24 Old 04-20-2012 Thread Starter
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rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

Last fall kids assaulted our harbor and kicked their way into my boat. They stomped the forward hatch until the plastic came out of the frame. Nothing is broken, but the duct tape holding in the plastic now is neither waterproof, secure or aesthetically pleasing. Should I use a clear acrylic caulk?
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

I replaced my hatch glass (actually some kind of polycarbonate) last fall. I used the material recommended by the manufacturer, and bought from them (Atkins and Hoyle), which I believe was GE SCS2000 (I'll check when I get home and update this post if I was wrong). This is some kind of silicone, I think, but it's really tough and flexible and made a great seal to the aluminum hatch frames. I highly recommend it.
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

Maybe something like this?

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post #4 of 24 Old 04-20-2012
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

If it was lexan ( a plast of bullet proof tecnology, that could deflect a bullet, but would cloud from salt water) The kids probably could not break it.
how is it mounted. I have found Screws tend to do funny things to lexon when torcked down.
I have always perferd 3 M 5200.
If it is fastened bed it apply. & clean up any over flow, with WD40 (Water Displacment formula 40) it's the solvent.
It's moisture activated (Works under water) & once bedded and cures flexable.
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post #5 of 24 Old 04-20-2012
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

The better sealants recommended by hatch experts like Select Plastics Which Sealants To Use
are Sika Flex 295 UV which requires a primer, GE SG-4000, and probably the most popular Dow 795.

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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

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probably the most popular Dow 795.
I used this and was very happy with it. Its primarily used for bonding curtain wall glazing on high rise buildings so it's probably O/K for a couple of square feet of hatch glazing.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #7 of 24 Old 04-21-2012
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

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The better sealants recommended by hatch experts like Select Plastics Which Sealants To Use
are Sika Flex 295 UV which requires a primer, GE SG-4000, and probably the most popular Dow 795.
I quit using Silka Flex more years ago then I can remember. I would guess I used 75 to 95 tubes of 5200 for instaling moldings, ports, trim, standing rigging, through hulls, antina's, Flybridges ECT & about 45 tubes of life ****, & 3 cans of like **** primber, for teak decking.

I will need to reff & recaulk 2 teak seems, & may have to recaulk a rubrail because the customer hit a pilling.
My policy is if the proccess works well, don;t change it but Thank You for your enformation
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

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I would guess I used 75 to 95 tubes of 5200 for instaling moldings, ports, trim, standing rigging, through hulls, antina's, Flybridges ECT
Ah, so you're the one that's used 5200 on all the items that the owners can't remove without damage.

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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

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Ah, so you're the one that's used 5200 on all the items that the owners can't remove without damage.
Actually I havn't had to break glass down to dust, &n cut the bedding off with a wood chissel since before the formula changed back in the 80s.
But If your primary concern is how easily a part you are installing will come off, rather then that the vessel will return home safly. we are working to different ends. Mine is saftey.
But back in the 70s the boatworks called together 6 boatworkers including my self to get oppenions on how best to do something. the only thing I remember was 6 professionls came up with 7 oppenions.
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Re: rebedding my hatch lexan (if that's what it is)

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Actually I havn't had to break glass down to dust, &n cut the bedding off with a wood chissel since before the formula changed back in the 80s.
But If your primary concern is how easily a part you are installing will come off, rather then that the vessel will return home safly. we are working to different ends. Mine is saftey.
But back in the 70s the boatworks called together 6 boatworkers including my self to get oppenions on how best to do something. the only thing I remember was 6 professionls came up with 7 oppenions.
I guess one professional couldn't make up his mind.

Safety has nothing to do with it. The sealant or bedding keeps the water out. The fasteners, commonly machine screws, hold the fitting in place. Except for acrylic ports which should never be attached with 5200.

I am grateful that everything above the waterline including the hull/deck join on my 1977 CS was bedded with butyl. Easily removable and very few leaks since new.

Brian
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