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Old 05-01-2012
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Drive Train Maintenance

Oh, how I wish I had photos to share.

So since the trusty steed is going nowhere again this season, and will have to endure the ignominy of another year on the hard I decided to address a couple of drive train deferred maintenance items (meaning things I haven't yet done on this boat.)

On the initial list:
- Replace cutlass bearing.
- Overhaul the PSS shaft seal.
- Consider pulling tranny for overhaul.

Step 1: Remove the Prop.

Easier said than done (which should come as no surprise, eh sports fans?). I pulled the nuts, and went looking for a prop puller. No go at any rental shops. I stopped in at the prop shop in the yard -- seems they don't actually pull props. They pointed me at the engine shop next door. I finally caught those guys, and asked about borrowing a puller; they just shook their heads -- "We don't lend tools. We'd be happy to pull the prop for you, but our minimum charge is one hour of labor (@ $90/hr.) I elected to decline their kind offer.

Taking another tack, I stopped in at a local welding shop and scrounged some scrap 3/16" steel plate and fabricated a puller out of it and some 5/16" all thread. That took a couple of hours, but so far I'm still ahead -- only about $5 invested in the all thread and six nuts.

Got to the boat today and popped my fancy shmancy hillbilly puller on the prop and shaft. Torqued her up and heated up the hub with a propane torch. After about ten minutes I got that gratifying POP/CLANG of the prop coming free.

Shocking Discovery 1: There was no woodruff key in the keyway. Instead it was filled with either a lot of rust or a lot of dirt & sediment. At that point I could only shake my head in wonder -- we did the entire Great Loop, with all the engine use that entails, on a prop that was only friction bound (or in all likelihood galled) to the shaft.

Step Two: Disconnect the Shaft from the Tranny.

This too was frustrating, as the DriveSaver bolts had become quite happy in their rusted, neglected existence. PB Blaster and a little heat from a microtorch ultimately got them to surrender to persuasion.

Step Three: Get the PSS loose.

This one started out so well, I should have expected an ambush. I pulled the set screws (two per hole) and thought this should be a breeze. No such luck. Although the lock collar would move around the axis of the shaft, it wouldn't move forward or aft. I gooped on some liquid hand soap and commenced to try and spin it forward. No go. Gentle taps with a ball peen, perhaps? Still no go. I stiffled the urge to get a bigger hammer, but just barely. After about an hour of hanging upside down from the waist over a rather sharp access hatch in the quarter berth, she finally began to creep forward. Once I got it about an inch it started to move freely.

Now we're getting there.

Disappointing Discovery 1: Probably going to need a new shaft. Once I got the PSS collar moved forward, I could pull the shaft partially aft. I went out to take a look from the outside -- the shaft where it contacts the cutlass bearing is worn down about 1/32", and there's also some crevice corrosion.

Mumbling to myself, I went back in the boat to assess getting the prospects of getting the shaft coupling off of the tranny end of the shaft. Of course, this particular unit is the type that has a lock nut on the shaft recessed inside the face of the coupling. Wish I'd known that earlier. As fate would have it, when we beached the boat, I took most of my tools (including sockets) home. That fight seems to be on the card for tomorrow. Wish me luck -- I hope for an early TKO, but if this one goes as it has so far I'm in for a full 12 rounds of pain and suffering.

Of course there is good news -- at least I won't have to drop the rudder to get the shaft out of the boat (eventually.)

Last edited by PorFin; 05-01-2012 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 05-01-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

I feel your pain...

I am still in the middle of a lengthy process which has so far included; cutting the old bronze shaft out (with a hacksaw because the batteries in my cordless sawzall died at the time) while hanging upside down like a bat in my engine compartment. All this fun so that I could replace the worn cutlass bearing.

Because it came out in pieces, I had the pleasure of lightening my wallet by buying a new prop shaft. As long as I was there, I replaced the old stuffing box with a PSS shaft seal.




Here are some of the new parts;


When trying to reassemble, I realized that I had to drop the rudder because the new shaft wouldn't clear the rudder. Dropping the rudder, I realized that it had about 2 gallons of black liquid (I hesitate to call it water) inside. I put the rudder in my garage on it's side for the winter, and let it dry out.


Later, I discovered that the wobble in the drive line was caused, at least partially, by a bad motor mount. This is a pic of one of the good ones. The one behind this had buggered threads.

Four new Vetus K75 motor mounts were placed on order, while I pondered how to remove the old ones.

Trying to gain access for the bolts that hold the motor mounts in place on my O'day 35 involved putting my arms in places in the boat that they just were not meant to go. That opening in the pic above is about 1¼". My hands are about 1½" thick... or were... I think that I lost a pint of blood, but that was more than made up for, by weight anyway, with the fiberglass splinters that I picked up.

Right now the cutlass bearing is in, the shaft, coupling and shaft seal are in, but the motor has yet to be aligned. And, I still have to re-install the rudder and the prop.
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Last edited by eherlihy; 05-01-2012 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 05-01-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

I'm trying -- really trying, in fact -- to keep thinking good thoughts...

All I'm seeing in my head is Oddball (Donald Sutherland) chastising his mechanic (Gavin McLeod) "Always with the negative waves, Moriarty, always with the negative waves..."

My new (and still growing) list:

- Replace cutlass bearing.
- Overhaul PSS shaft seal.
- Pull tranny for eval and possible overhaul.
- Replace prop shaft.
- Salvage prop if possible; replace (and upsize) if necessary.
- Since the tranny's coming out, replace leaking rear main seal (what can I say, it's a Perkins 4.108M.)
- While I've got it apart I may as well replace the damper plate as well.
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Old 05-01-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

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Old 05-01-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

Well told gentlemen.
Having just been down this road for the first time this winter you both have my utmost sympathies.

We ended up cutting our old bronze shaft in half with a Sawzall (metal blade) as it was badly worn at the Cutless. I can't imagine going through the contortions and pain of trying to separate the coupling from the shaft in the miserable space called the rear end of my engine compartment. It was much easier to separate the pieces while they were on a work bench.

Even the cheap steering wheel puller I bought 25 years ago came in handy for this job.

It is a miserable job but well worth doing for the peace of mind you will have once you know that your drive train has been refurbished.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

For anyone that is interested, and for posterity;

My O'day 35 had 4 OSCO DF-206 motor mounts holding the Universal M25 in place. I am not saying that these were original equipment, as I believe that they were replaced in 2004 by the previous owner.

The aft starboard had trashed threads, and the steel "cup" of the fore starboard (pictured above) was corroded.

I replaced all 4 with Vetus K75 mounts.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

Hey,

I went through a similar process in winter 2009 - spring 2010.

I chose a more simple route:
-I remove rudder
-I pay service yard to remove and install a new shaft, stuffing box, and cutless bearing.
-I install rudder

The yard charged me a little under $1000 for everything, which I thought was very reasonable.

Barry
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

Barry,

You got a (steal) deal, or cheap materials.

Here are round numbers of what I spent on this little project;
  • 1" SS Shaft - $300
  • Solid Coupling - $100
  • Fit & Face Coupling - $50
  • PSS Shaft Seal - $300
  • 1" x 1 3/8" x 4" Cutlass Bearing - $100
  • Prop Balance - $100
  • 4 Vetus K75 mounts - $250
  • New SS nuts bolts & washers - $50
  • Numerous scratches and bruises - Pricele$s

The grand total was just south of $1200, and I did ALL the labor myself. Now, at least I know who to blame when things break.

The morning after I replaced the engine mounts, I went over to the barrel that I threw them into. I wanted one to make a template for the bolt holes. Someone else had scrounged them out between 5PM and 9:AM! That may be where the yard got yours.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

... and if you wonder why I did all of this work myself, rather than hiring a professional, take a look at this thread :http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...-over-yet.html
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Drive Train Maintenance

Well, what a difference a day makes...

Spent about 4 hours back in the boat today, and progress continues.

Managed to coax the coupling off of the inboard end of the shaft. Luckily, the lock nut came loose without having to resort to brute force and ignorance. I then popped on a three-armed puller and gave that a go -- no joy. Applied some heat -- still no joy. Heat and hammer taps -- nope. Backed off the puller and made a quick trip to the hardware store for four grade 8 bolts and nuts. Did the socket between the flanges trick, and she came loose.

Got the shaft out of the boat, and yes a replacement is probably warranted.

Pulled the tranny off and dropped it at a transmission shop to have it bench tested.

All in all, it was a pretty successful day. Of course, I probably just jinxed myself by saying that out loud...
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