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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #1  
Old 05-01-2012
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Spring Maintenance

It's spring in Michigan and time for maintenance. I have a pretty big list this year and had some questions.

The PO directly attached the instrument cluster power leads and the radio to the batteries by wrapping the stripped wires around the terminals. I wanted to clean this up with a terminal block or something. The batteries are in the cockpit locker. Is a small bus bar for each leg acceptable? I was just going to install one for pos and one for negative on the wall directly above the batteries.

I've also found Maine Sail's recommendations on replacing cutlass bearings, I'll need to find out my diameter later, I was wonder if someone had recommendations for removing the shaft coupler so I can get this all out. I'll also be repacking the stuffing box. I have no idea when that was last done.

I also have no info on transmission oil change from the PO, so that should be an adventure.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

- Randall
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Old 05-01-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

I suspect there is some sort of ABYC code for protecting the bus bars from being exposed and shorted.

Just draw the trans fluid out through the dip stick or fill hole with a pump and replace. Couldn't be easier.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

Engine oil and tranny fluid should be a breeze.

Removing the coupler from the output flange from the engine was easy for us.
Removing the coupler from the shaft, not so much.
I'd go and buy a steering wheel puller from a NAPA or similar autoparts place. You will need some longer bolts that match your coupler bolts if whatever comes with the shaft puller doesn't.
"V" drive or direct drive or geared drive on your M 30' OI?
G'luck.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

I don't think it's a V drive, but I'm not familiar with the other two types.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

Randall,
A direct drive engine is probably the most common set up with most smaller boats. This is where the output shaft of the engine faces the stern and connects directly to the shaft.

A geared or reduction drive (typically 2:1) is more common on bigger, heavier boats so they can swing a larger prop behind the boat.

With a "V" drive set up the engine output shaft faces forward and connects to the "V" drive gearbox which then spins a shaft that runs back toward the transom. With this set up parts of the drive train can be 'buried' underneath the engine making it difficult to work on the stuffing box etc without moving the engine. I asked because I was on a 36' Morgan that had the "V" drive set up.

Hopefully you have a direct drive set up as it is fairly straight forward to work on, depending on the boat.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

78 Morgan will have a straight shaft, so the instructions above will work.
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Old 05-03-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

No DC panel? Normally the instruments will be powered off the panel and the circuit protected by a circuit breaker. Running them off the battery directly without protection is dangerous. At least you need a fuse in the circuit.
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Old 05-03-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

Yes, it's a straight drive then.

There is a DC panel, and the instruments are switched, but the PO didn't do it quite right. I think he ran a leg directly from the battery to a switch on the panel ... I guess I need to pull the panel off and see what's in there. The instrument wires all need to be replaced at the very least anyway. There are splices all over, and they aren't run cleanly, which means it's pretty hit or miss if they work at all.
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Re: Spring Maintenance

Here's hoping my poor man's prop puller works I have an old C clamp with the end split into a Y. I think it's pretty much the same thing ... I need to get it all apart this weekend so I can get an idea of all the parts I need to order and what sizes. I'll also check the condition of the stuffing box. Hopefully it just needs to be repacked.
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Old 05-03-2012
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Re: Spring Maintenance

If you have a few electronic items to put in, and need an easy way to add more than you have switches for I'm a really big fan of the Blue Seas Fuse Blocks. Unless you're doing something crazy, you can usually feed it with a 10AWG wire, and run 14AWG to the branches. Of course, you want to check amperage and be safe, but that was well within specs for what I needed.

I ran a feed from the main house bank bus to the panel breaker labeled "Electronics", and then on to the blue sea block. This feeds my radio, VHF, and whatever gizmos I add in the future have an easy place to integrate.

Great way to clean up raw battery post wraps and make them safe.
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