Join Date: Sep 2009
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Re: removing deck skin
Thanks for the replies.
Before I respond, a question. Do I need to re-core with wood? I ask because I drilled test holes on the port side and the water damage is much less. About 2 feet, as far as I can tell. Could I fill with fiberglass mat, rather than wood?
I think the angle grinder will be the way to go.
The multi tool looks great but would prefer not to spend the money if my angle grinder will do the job, we will see.
I thought about using a skil saw but the side decks are too narrow for this to work well. I would love to be able to get 12:1 ratio on the joint(bevel) but not a chance, again decks too narrow. With that said it is a good reminder to me to bevel the joints out as much as I can.
I youtube'd the dremil 561 bit. Regardless of whither I need it for this job or not I will pick one up, it looks like a handy bit to have on a fiberglass boat.
- The boat was built in 1979(JJ Taylor not the original builder)
- I believe the water is/was getting in thru both the stanchion bases and the chain plates.
- I can not confirm that the core in the decks is balsa, I should not have assumed so.
- The core under my life line stanchions is not solid fiberglass, definitely a wood core there. With that said it is solid under the rear pulpit(correct terminology?) bases.
- I removed the rear hardware today and the rear deck is solid fiberglass. In fact, on my boat, it is solid from the winch bases back.
I have read over at co26.com that the deck core on the co 26 changes from year to year and builder to builder. If I recall correctly, early models were solid fiberglass, where as later models used both balsa and plywood.
Re-coring the deck will take several weeks to a month min, with that said I will definitely followup with pics and commentary as I have some.
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