Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate? - SailNet Community
 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 13 Old 05-30-2012 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 2,626
Thanks: 5
Thanked 62 Times in 62 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

My Bristol 31.1 has a lot of teak in the cabin, and the original brochure refers to a "rubbed varnish" finish. What I would like to know is how this was done, and how I might replicate it. Clearly the result is lowish in gloss and the grain is still slightly raised so they didn't use too many layers.

I want to replicate it, as most of the interior is in great condition. But some areas are worn (particularly areas with heavy traffic, like the surrounds of the chart table and galley) and could use re-finishing.

Thanks in advance,

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
MarkSF is online now  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 05-30-2012
Tartan 28
 
drgamble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MdR, CA
Posts: 103
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 7
 
My guess is that Watco Oil may have been used. My boat was done in similar fashion. I'm a big fan of using lemon oil (Old English) to bring it back to life.

-drgamble

Tartan 28
Peregrine

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
drgamble is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 13 Old 05-30-2012
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 150
Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 8
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

My old Tartan 27 was advertised similarly. I used a low gloss tung oil with very nice results. Easy upkeep if scratched. Lightly sand and recoat. You can build up many coats, use high gloss if you like.

Plenty durable for down below. I no longer use varnish inside.

Just my opinion.

Skywalker
SkywalkerII is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 13 Old 05-30-2012
Senior Member
 
RichH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,465
Thanks: 24
Thanked 154 Times in 143 Posts
Rep Power: 16
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

Hand rubbed varnish is 'finished' by rubbing on various mixtures of rottenstone or various grades of pumice PLUS either water or oil to get the exact 'finish' to the varnish you desire.

The varnish, paint, heavy or 'resinated' oil (75% oil + 25% oil based varnish), lacquer, etc. must be fully cured before 'finishing'; on oil based coatings its better to wait 30 days before 'finishing'.

Flat sand with 2000 or finer grit W&D paper, then 3M Finese-it, then 3M Perfect-it rubbed in by bare hand = 'ultra-gloss'
Rottenstone + water = high gloss
Rottenstone + oil = semi gloss
Fine pumice or crushed diatomaceous earth + oil/water for semi glass
.... all the way down to coarser pumice and oil for coarser and coarser to matte finishes.

How to do:
• clean bare hand or clean 'balled-up' microfiber rag, slightly wetted with oil or water.
•*small* amount of abrasive picked up (dabbed into) by the moisture on the hand or rag.
• rub in the direction of the grain, until gloss/semi-gloss/matt is attained ... change/add abrasive often.
• Finish up with *very small* amounts of abrasive with wetted bare hand, rub until the surface gets HOT .... for development of the iridescent glowing 'patina' of the surface wood cells .... that warm radiant GLOWING appearance from the now 'dazzling' wood cells under the varnish.
The final polishing is usually better 'bare handed' as you can better feel the heat generated.

Rottenstone and pumice grades are obtained in old fashioned 'paint stores'.

For mega-ultra gloss, like what you see on high end private jet aircraft, mega-yachts, and the finishes on 'concours quality' auto paint jobs, etc. you can speed up the process by flat sanding 2000-->3000grit wet & dry, then Using Finese-it then Perfect-it and use an autobody shop rotating polisher, on low speed, and with a 3M knobby foam pad ... be careful not to burn the surface, keep the polishing pad 'moving'. Never change 'grits' on the knobby foam pads, one pad for each 'grit'.

The technique is almost similar to 'french polishing' of shellac but without the alcohol soaked cotton pads ... just a bare hand or clean microfiber rag.
Do webseach: "french + polishing" ... french polishing is the ultra-ultra gloss finishes found on the most expensive pianos, and other high end musical instruments, furniture, etc.

Happy 'rubbing'.
MarkSF likes this.

Last edited by RichH; 05-30-2012 at 08:41 PM.
RichH is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 13 Old 05-31-2012
Senior Moment Member
 
SloopJonB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 11,460
Thanks: 59
Thanked 69 Times in 66 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

RichH has nailed it but I'd add one thing - if you want the finish between satin and ultra gloss that most call "rubbed effect" or "hand rubbed" you can achieve it more easily by applying several coats of gloss varnish then wet sanding to 600 or maybe 800 and then switching to auto rubbing compound applied by hand.

Gives a very nice, hard, gloss finish but not the "show car" ultra high gloss.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
SloopJonB is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 13 Old 05-31-2012
Tartan 37C
 
T37SOLARE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chesapeake Bay - HHS
Posts: 501
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 8
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

Generally a rubbed varnish finish wont need much maintenance, so I would guess it's a an oil like Watco.

Here is Solare after refinishing the teak with Watco.



On the other hand, you can get a rubbed varnish finish by using Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish.

padave29 likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

SOLARE
T-37 #442
T37SOLARE is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
The Following User Says Thank You to T37SOLARE For This Useful Post:
padave29 (10-05-2014)
post #7 of 13 Old 05-31-2012 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Posts: 2,626
Thanks: 5
Thanked 62 Times in 62 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

That looks really nice - did you have to do much prep before applying the Watco?

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
MarkSF is online now  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 13 Old 06-01-2012
Senior Member
 
RichH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,465
Thanks: 24
Thanked 154 Times in 143 Posts
Rep Power: 16
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

Oil finishes are great; and, if applied 'thick' and let cure can be more beauteous than varnish ... can be 'polished'/hand rubbed to a gloss the same or better than varnish.
The downside with a straight oil finish ... will begin to oxidize and turn dark after a few years and by 15-20 years the inside of a boat will look like the inside of a mausoleum. Most of the old sailing ships werent painted 'black', its just the oil finish they used went totally oxidized/black. If you 'must' oil, try walnut oil (bring mortgage application when you buy it) ... longer lasting and doesnt turn as dark as fast as straight oil or tung based oils.

;-)
RichH is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 13 Old 06-01-2012
Senior Moment Member
 
SloopJonB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 11,460
Thanks: 59
Thanked 69 Times in 66 Posts
Rep Power: 5
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichH View Post
Oil finishes are great; and, if applied 'thick' and let cure can be more beauteous than varnish ... can be 'polished'/hand rubbed to a gloss the same or better than varnish.
The downside with a straight oil finish ... will begin to oxidize and turn dark after a few years and by 15-20 years the inside of a boat will look like the inside of a mausoleum. Most of the old sailing ships werent painted 'black', its just the oil finish they used went totally oxidized/black. If you 'must' oil, try walnut oil (bring mortgage application when you buy it) ... longer lasting and doesnt turn as dark as fast as straight oil or tung based oils.
Listen to this man! I am in the middle of refinishing my teak which was coated in decades old oil & grime. Cleaning the old crud out was a brutal job - I literally had to use Easy-Off oven cleaner on some of it! I used Watco years ago on another boat and it looks wonderful at first and for a while but it will blacken and hold dirt & grime as RichH noted and then you have a hell of a job cleaning it up.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
SloopJonB is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 13 Old 06-01-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SF - South Bay
Posts: 579
Thanks: 1
Thanked 21 Times in 21 Posts
Rep Power: 6
 
Re: Rubbed varnish finish - how to replicate?

So what is the best product belowdecks? Tung oil? A wax? Or just revarnish?
My woodwork below is looking a bit "dry". I would be interested in advice from others.

(RichH: Good summary!!)
paul323 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best finish for Ash Scott Vickery Gear & Maintenance 12 10-05-2011 07:42 AM
Video of replicate wooden ship burning jgsteven General Discussion (sailing related) 2 07-31-2009 03:00 PM
How Do You Get Varnish Off lofty22810 Gear & Maintenance 6 12-13-2008 12:51 AM
Right of way at the finish? noscreenname Racing 16 07-12-2006 10:53 AM
Replicate Kon-Tiki Beethoven49 Cruising & Liveaboard Forum 0 08-24-2003 03:29 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome