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How short is too short

4K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  jackdale 
#1 ·
32s5 Bene on a mooring the mooring lines (2) could go over the anchor rollers then to the deck cleats about 3' back or in little notches on the side of the stem fitting that has a little mini roller too.

I had the mooring lines through the notches to the cleats with the loop through the center of the cleat then folded over. It looked good to me.
The owner of the boat just put a 1" dock line through the mooring lines so the mooring lines didn't get on the boat.

I don't know if she thought the mooring lines were too short or she was worried about the scum on the lines.

How short is too short for mooring lines?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Gary - I think the OP is on a mooring ball.

My preferred method on a ball. Mooring line (nylon) from cleat through the chock to the ring or pennant with a complete round turn (twice through) to the chock on the other side to the other cleat (cleat hitch perhaps with a stopper knot as a safety). I then run other mooring line the same way but this one is a bit longer; doubling up. If you are a permanent ball, use anti-chafing where necessary.

If you have a plumb bow the mooring ball with rub against the hull. If not, the mooring line might be snugged up enough to keep the ball just below the bow without touching.
 
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#10 ·
Thanks, if the weather holds tomorrow I'll get some pictures so it will be more clear.
 
#11 · (Edited)
This is the old way.
I don't like the way the anchor bracket can chafe when the boat sits at an angle which it seems to want to do.
I don't like that even though I have two mooring lines I don't get their benefit.
 

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#13 ·
I agree the chafing possibilities are scary.

Two mooring lines means that if one fails the other is backup. I would have the back up line longer. I would also use a full round turn, i.e. twice through the pennant, to reduce chafe at that point. You might also use chafe protection.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I switched to this way.
The mooring lines go directly to the cleats.
The mooring lines seem a little short but otherwise it seems like a good solution.

What do you think.
The distance shot show how it looks in about 10-15 knots.
Maybe it is OK.
 

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#14 · (Edited)
Through the chocks is better. The chafe protection is excellent.

EDIT BTW with that setup the mooring lines should be same length.
 
#15 ·
I do use a web-based spell checker.
- I dont...Id rather be annoying

davidpm. In the setup you mentioned did it the OP have one line running through the loop of the other, which would causing abrasion or did I envison what you described the wrong way
 
#18 ·
A couple posts up I have a picture.
Two lines through both pennant loops.
One pretty good one just an old dock line.
 
#16 ·
I never take a mooring buoy pennant on board. i always use me own line through the pennant eye. years ago I did use the wet soggy eye of a mooring buoy pennant over the mooring cleat an got caught on a lee shore in a storm. since that time i use and recomend you use your own line.
 
#17 ·
Would you explain this comment please.
Did you have a problem with releasing the pennant?
Is it that you are reluctant to cut the pennant in an emergency?

In this case I own the mooring, would that matter to you.
It is my permanent summer place so by definition I have to trust it. It will be the lee shore a good percentage of the time.
 
#19 ·
I had a thought that might be the best of both ideas.
How about a heavy line with the blight at the loop of one pennant and the two legs through the chocks then both cleat hitched to the one cleat.
The same thing with the other pennant to the other cleat.

Now I'm concerned that their will be chafe at the blight pennant loop so how about a cow hitch.
Would this be the very best setup?
 
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