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post #11 of 23 Old 06-22-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

Originally Posted by Flybyknight View Post
Might be a good time to clean the passages. In my other life as a chemical engineer we find that as little as 1/32" of scale reduces the heat transfer by 20%.

If you suck 1 gallon of white vinegar (< $3 at a supermarket) into your raw water side and leave it overnight it should help de-scale the cooling passages.

I try to do this periodically with my raw water cooled engine.
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post #12 of 23 Old 06-22-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

End plate. More work, perhaps, but finesse triumphs over brute force, engines can be clever about hiding stuff they've eeaten.

Denise, it would be simpe to take a magnetic reed switch (i.e. alarm window contact) and line it up on the intake seacock, but as the other guys said, there are times when yo might want that seacock closed. So, you'd be better off using it as a "seacock closed alarm" than a starter interrupt itself. One set of alarm contacts, one piezo buzzer, one relay, and of course one fuse. No biggie. $5 project, plus another $10 for the buzzer.
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post #13 of 23 Old 06-22-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

The odds are very high the bits are in the exchanger, and as stated above remove the end cap and dig them out.
Highly recommend speed seal. These simple kit allows for a quick and easy impeller change, even upside down and backwards. The latest version has a spinning plate on the faceplate which prevents impeller breakdown even when dry. Here is their website.
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post #14 of 23 Old 06-22-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

CaptRon, been there done that! Like every one else has said, you'll want to find those blades. I also recommend hanging the key on the seacock. Key has lived there since I learned my lesson.

Also IIRC Yanmar recommends having the valves adjusted after overheating the engine. Took about an hour on my 3GM for the mechanic to do it & truth be told he said the clearance on the valves was okay but, better safe than sorry.

PS I commend you for having a spare pump. They are a b%^ch to replace while at sea.

Last edited by saillife; 06-22-2012 at 11:40 AM.
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post #15 of 23 Old 06-22-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

If your Yanmar is like my 2GM20F, the exchanger doesn't have coils, but simple straight-through pipes arranged in a cylinder--looks like a Gatling gun barrel. You should be able to clear the front of them by removing the forward cap on the exchanger. Four bolts I think.

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post #16 of 23 Old 06-22-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: destroyed impeller

Thanks, sounds like a fairly straight forward project for this weekend, I will go with eventually removing the end plate (I may try the vinegar flush first), it is only 4 bolts (it would be a good time to put anti-seize on them as well, as I do everything I take apart and put back together.)

I still like the idea of a valve with a sensor built in, even if it just went to a light on the panel, you could tell by a quick look what was open and what was closed. Instead of the guessing game, did I close that one, well lets check.

Speed seal look like an interesting product, but the damn faceplate screws are on the engine side of the pump. I guess they have to be because the pulley is on the front side. Anyway if the impeller did not break down by running dry that would be a plus.

thanks all,
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post #17 of 23 Old 07-03-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: destroyed impeller

Just to bring this to closure. I disassembled the heat exchanger, I never did find the last 2 blades of the impeller, so I am assuming they ended up as grit and dust in the original raw water pump. I cleaned the heat exchanger (the best I could, I will try the vinegar at some point), and reassembled with new o-rings, seals and hoses (just because it was time). Opened up the end of the heat exchanger looks like this;

Initially I had a frozen bolt, I used Blaster 16-PB, left it overnight and that did the trick. The engine coolant outflow nozzle was pretty rusted, but still thick enough, so I cleaned it and used Permatex Ultra-Copper as a coating before I put the new hose on it.

After reassembly I ran the engine thru its passes and found no leaks and water flowing fine out the exhaust. This is my first boat so I am learning as I go, it is satisfying to get things back together and have them work the first time. A bit of time (and money) is all it took!

thanks for all the input.
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post #18 of 23 Old 07-03-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

Nice job, Capn, It's always good to hear the results of these issues. Glad it all worked out.

I've had to do exactly what you just went through. Like you, I got to know my engine; it is satisfying. This is my 1st diesel...after having an atomic 4 for a long time.

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post #19 of 23 Old 07-30-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

This is a little off the topic. Hope you don't mind. I have an atomic four engine and the water pump isn't being turned by the engine so it is overheating. I looked where the water pump shaft enters the engine and there is nothing there to interact with the water pump. Did something disintegrate? Any thoughts?
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post #20 of 23 Old 07-30-2012
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Re: destroyed impeller

Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Oh.. and you've heard of the trick of storing the engine key on the through hull valve handle????
^^^ This.

Tho until grabbing that key and opening the valve becomes habit, if you've a spare key, say, in a drawer in the galley, best put it away somewhere else.

It was the end of our first season keeping the key stored on the thru-hull valve handle and I was taking her over to the pump-out just prior to haulout. Tied up at the pump-out dock, grabbed the "key" for the deck pump-out fitting and... it didn't fit?!?! What the blue blazes? Check the drawer. Nope, that had to be it, because there was nothing else in the.... waitaminute... there should be two "keys" in there: One for the water tank and one for the pump-out. Looked up at the engine key switch and there it was. Oh no... Sure enough: The normal key was still hooked around the handle of the closed through-hull valve.

Luckily it was fairly cool water and air that time of year and I hadn't gone far. The impeller was fine.

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