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  #1  
Old 06-27-2012
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Sealing hull-deck joint

I have my toe rail off to repaint the deck. The hull to deck joint is bolted with butyl rubber sealant. I really don't want to pull the deck off the boat to re-seal the joint (want to sail this season!). What should I put in gap? Polysufide calk, epoxy, or just cram more butyl rubber in the gap? I'm not sure if the toe rail will really be pressing down on the joint.
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

What did you wind up doing? Did it work?
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

we rebed with 5200, it was not my first choice but I didnt have bedding compound or mains butyl tape

the toerail is through bolted on yours right?
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

I realize this is very old jajaja
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

I was doing some research into the issue last night and realized that although it was an old thread, Barquito is usually pretty active here so it would be good to get an update.
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

yup! its just funny...get called out for it a bunch

are you planning on doing yours jimgo? are your through bolted or just bedded in place?
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

Christian, I hope not. I have some serious leaks that I need to tackle in the next few weeks because the water starting to damage the wood inside. I was trying to find the source and noticed that it looked like the fiberglass was weeping from the inside. My guess is that the water is traveling in and down along the glass to a spot where it can come out. Unfortunately, there are a LOT of possible intrusion areas near where I saw the water. I'm going to try rebidding the windows and jib car tracks first, then the stanchions, and then finally, if that doesn't solve it, I'll look at the hull/deck joint.
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

aaaah that sucks we just did almost all those things you mentioned...Im only missing the windows...

we did hull seam, toerails, stanchions and new bases, eliminated some hardware and sealed up...potted and sealed up some holes redrilled a bunch

etc...etc...

its a pain and tedious but not impossiible

each toerail of mine had 96 bolts!

aaah

good luck
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

Ug! I REALLY hope it is something else!
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Old 03-31-2014
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Re: Sealing hull-deck joint

I did the hull/deck joint on one side of my boat last year and it made a big difference. I'm doing the other side this year.

The quantity of work to do this depends a lot on how the hull/deck joint is assembled on your boat. I think my boat has it about as easy as is possible. We have an outward flange as shown here, although it has a teak toe rail instead of aluminum:


In addition to the parts shown there my boat has a rub rail which goes in between the teak and deck (that is held down by the primary bolts) and a decorative cover underneath.

Disassembling the hull/deck joint was pretty easy. First I had to remove the lower cover, which was held on by about 30 #10 screws. Then I had to remove the 3 teak toe rails, each held on by about 15 #14 screws. Finally I removed the rub strip which was held on by 5/16" bolts on roughly 6" centers. These bolts also held the hull and deck together. I put about half of those bolts back in to keep the hull and deck lined up. This is what it looked like as it came apart:


You can see a lot of the hardware spread out on my dock here:


Once apart I removed the existing bedding compound. The perfect tool for this is a Fein multi-tool or one of it's clones.

I rebedded with 5200. It took at least one tube of caulk to do one side of the boat. I would never use 5200 anywhere else on the boat, but I feel like this is a good application for a permanent bedding compound.

While the toe rails were apart I sanded and refinished them.

It looks nice all put back together (image at the end), but more importantly that side of the boat doesn't leak at all. I can't way to to do it to the other side.

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