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Old 07-08-2012
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Question Swing Keel Cable Broke

I purchased a G23 recently and the cable for the swing keel broke today, this is not a huge issue at this time but will need to be fixed as I will need to get it up before I trailer it home this fall.
Is there an easy way to get the new cable in and attached?

Scott
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Old 07-08-2012
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

you might try lowering a new cable down thru the tube then dive down and thread it thru the little pully then back up thru the tube,i don't know if this is possible,or hire a diver
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

I think, you'll have to get the pin out, and the broken cable from the board end. Then install the new cable and pin. If you pre-make the eye, you'll have to pull the new cable up..with a messenger line or use the old broken cable from the cockpit end to pull the new one up....

I suppose you could feed the cable from above, but you'll have to make up the eye after it's through..I doubt the tube would be large enough

I've always had the yard replace mine while it's in the sling, and I've never been there to watch them do it, so take the above as pure conjecture.

Here's the diagram of your set-up.

http://grampianowners.com/G23/Centre...ls%20Large.JPG
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

Run a line under the boat attached to the primary winches to raise the swing keel so you can load on the trailer. If you cant access the cable end on the keel you may have to jack the boat up a little or get the yard to lift with a travel lift. good luck
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

This is the same configuration as on Sabres, so I'm familiar with the replacement. I did this job last year and it wasn't difficult. It's not really a job that I'd suggest doing in the water, certainly not without a scuba tank.

If you have the old cable, get a replacement stainless cable that's about 2' longer. Cut a clean edge with a cable cutter or tape the end with duct tape and cut with a hacksaw. Either way, tape the end with duct tape and grease the cable. Then simply push it through until it exits the bottom of the boat. It may be difficult to get the cable over the 90 degree sheave at the top of the centerboard case. If you can't get the cable over the sheave, the sheave may be damaged (our case) and may need to be replaced. Pull enough cable through to form an eye and nicropress a thimble on the end.

This isn't a difficuklt job.
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Cool Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

Thanks Tempest for the diagram. I will take dive down tommorrow and see if I can find the attachment point and fish a line up. Looks hopeful but tricky.
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

If the sheave was damaged did you have to pull the boat?
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

The boat was out of the water. I knew that I had a problem when I hauled the previous fall. The sheave housing is watertight and removing it to replace the sheave will open a hole in the top of the centerboard housing. You can not remove it with the boat in the water. In our case, the bronze sheave had split down the center, so the cable couldn't pass over it. We had a new one machined for $80.

It's mandatory to determine why the cable broke. If it's at the attachment point on the centerboard, you're in luck. Still hard to nicropress a fitting while holding your breath, but feasible with a lot of dives. Do you scuba or know anyone who does?

Quote:
fish a line up
It's much easier to snake one down. You don't have to hold your breath. But first dive to see if the cable broke at the fitting. If it did, then you're in luck and it can be fixed in the water. If it's broken further up, it could be the sheave.
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Re: Swing Keel Cable Broke

Solar, FWIW, i think the easiest and most straightforward way to do this is in sling on a short haul. Unless you are in warm, clear caribbean waters.

@ sabreman...did you do yours while in a sling?
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Swing Keel Cable Broke

Yes. I would not do this job in the water.

The job was slightly complicated by the fact that a weld on the sheave housing (containing the new sheave) leaked when we put the boat back in the water. So we had to haul her out again and reblock. I cut the thimble off the end of the cable and pulled the housing off to have it re-welded. It could not be welded in situ. Then I put it all together again. So I basically did the job twice. Goes a lot faster the second time.

I paid about $250 for the extra lift time and yard help. The price was lower than it could have been because the boat was already out of the water. It's an easy job, and only took about 2 hours actual work. About 8 hrs elapsed time due to waiting for the reweld and blocking, etc.
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