Advice refinishing teak and holly sole - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 22 Old 02-20-2006
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experience...teak and holy sole

I refinished my teak sole with polyurathane and was pleasantly surprised to find that it didn't get slippery when wet! If I had it to do over again I would use spar varnish to "build" the thickness faster and then finish off with polyurathane for a more abrasion resistant surface.
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post #12 of 22 Old 09-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
No arguments with any of the previous advice. Would like to suggest a "varnish" product that I bought for my sole at the Annapolis boat show and was VERY pleased with. Called Ultimate Sole and it goes on with a foam brush with NO between coat sanding. Dries to a hard hi gloss finish but is NOT slippery...indeed is less slippery than normal finishes even when wet.
I think the website is www.ultimatesole.com...no personal interest...just a plug for a good product.
I just went to the above website and it is still there but they don't look like they are still in business.. all the products have been removed from the site. It's just an empty website now.
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post #13 of 22 Old 02-17-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

See "Saving Your Sole" article at Dakota Marine Yacht Services in Milford, Ct
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post #14 of 22 Old 02-17-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

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Originally Posted by petercra View Post
The best way to remove interior varnish is with a heat gun and scraper. Although it is possible to char the wood, with careful use that is unlikely. Keep the heat on just long enough for the scraper to peel back the varnish. Keep a vacuum handy as the peeling are fine and will get into everything if you''re not careful.

I did this also was a quick and easy job. Followed by a little light sanding. Then three coats of West System Epoxy and several coats of Fabulon which was used on Gym Floors. Worked well for me.

Mike
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post #15 of 22 Old 03-09-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

I'm also in the process of refinishing a teak and holy sole. I've had a surprisingly easy time with the heat gun and carbide scraper. About 950 degrees, working and area for a minute or less scraping has been easy work.

Regarding the epoxy, is it necessary to epoxy the top? Like the OP my sole is plywood veneer. I planned to epoxy the sides and bottom but was afraid I'd just make a mess of the top (anyone whose seen my other epoxy work around the boat would know I'm not too skilled with the stuff yet). If it's sealed well on sides and bottom does the varnish offer at least some water protection?
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post #16 of 22 Old 03-09-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanskpr View Post
See "Saving Your Sole" article at Dakota Marine Yacht Services in Milford, Ct
Excellent article. Thanks for posting.

Question - anyone using one of the clear vinyl, etc. 'sealers' prior to varnishing a sole.
What Im looking for is a sealer that will prevent the varnish, etc. from initially darkening the sanded teak ... and which takes a year or more for the previous 'color/hue' to return.
I use such vinyl 'sealers' on musical instruments, etc. prior to prime lacquer/varnish and am seeking a suitable 'sealer' for a major sole rework project on a solid teak/holly sole (not veneer).
Any sealing product name successfully used with 'Burmese-Thai' teak would be greatly appreciated (as I dont want to wait 2-3 years for proper color/hue development).
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post #17 of 22 Old 03-09-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

Unfortunately, no pics still on my phone- but here was my experience:

Redid the cabin sole with 1/2" ply with 3/8" Brazillian Teak T&G flooring with 1/2" quartersawn maple epoxied (West System, middle cure- not fast, not slow cure). Epoxied quarter round Brazillian Teak for trim. Epoxied only the bottom to the ply, but added extra to the edges to ensure seal all round. Spar varnish in three coats to the top.
Sailed her hard with my brother in law last season, mangaged to get a thruhull leak and a small crack in the centerboard trunk that overwhelmed my bilge pump and she sat "low in the water" with the entire thing SUBMERGED for at least a week and probably closer to two before I got her hauled out and a refit/repair underway. The only thing that DIDN'T need to be touched that was touched by the bilge/seawater was the cabinsole. Once I drained, rinsed and allowed to dry out, one piece of the maple trim that I hadn't properly coated with varnish near a hatch had to be cut and replaced, but otherwise looks as good as it did when I put it down.
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post #18 of 22 Old 03-09-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichH View Post
Excellent article. Thanks for posting.

Question - anyone using one of the clear vinyl, etc. 'sealers' prior to varnishing a sole.
What Im looking for is a sealer that will prevent the varnish, etc. from initially darkening the sanded teak ... and which takes a year or more for the previous 'color/hue' to return.
I use such vinyl 'sealers' on musical instruments, etc. prior to prime lacquer/varnish and am seeking a suitable 'sealer' for a major sole rework project on a solid teak/holly sole (not veneer).
Any sealing product name successfully used with 'Burmese-Thai' teak would be greatly appreciated (as I dont want to wait 2-3 years for proper color/hue development).
I used Petit S-120. It has been discontinued and replaced with 2018. They say it's the same stuff, just repacked, but who knows.
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post #19 of 22 Old 03-09-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

From the instructions for Pettit 2018 :

"Do not use Clear Sealer on teak or other oily woods before varnishing or
painting (use 2012 Super Dry Sealer)."

Bristol 31.1, San Francisco Bay
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post #20 of 22 Old 03-09-2015
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Re: Advice refinishing teak and holly sole

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkSF View Post
From the instructions for Pettit 2018 :

"Do not use Clear Sealer on teak or other oily woods before varnishing or
painting (use 2012 Super Dry Sealer)."
Yep- I found the wrong can online. I used the predecessor to the 2012.
Sorry for the confusion.
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