Hull Composition - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 08-21-2012
TwoD83's Avatar
New Guy
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
TwoD83 is on a distinguished road
Hull Composition

I've been reciting the iron keel on my Cheoy Lee Clipper 42. The old coating mostly fell off on haul out. I've stripped it to bare metal, re-coated with POR-15, and filled and faired with thickened epoxy. I plan to add at least one layer of fiberglass and then more epoxy with barrier coat additive. Am I missing anything? Do I need to add anything else before covering with bottom paint? Any recommendations on applying bottom paint (spray, brush, roll, etc.)?
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 08-22-2012
tommays's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,234
Thanks: 1
Thanked 24 Times in 24 Posts
Rep Power: 6
tommays will become famous soon enough
Re: Hull Composition

I am not sure what a layer of glass would do other than make it really hard next time ?
SloopJonB likes this.
__________________
1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 08-22-2012
Mobnets's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 147
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 4
Mobnets is on a distinguished road
Re: Hull Composition

TwoD83:

My previous boat had an iron keel (Paceship PY23) so this topic still catches my attention.

Check out this article from Practical Sailor magazine . . .

Practical Sailor - Keels: Minor Maintenance and Repair - Tips Article

Good Old Boat magazine also had an excellent article on this several years ago but I can't seem to find it at present.

Mobnets
Paceship Chance 32/28 "Westwind"
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 08-22-2012
SloopJonB's Avatar
Senior Moment Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 10,650
Thanks: 56
Thanked 48 Times in 45 Posts
Rep Power: 4
SloopJonB will become famous soon enough
Re: Hull Composition

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoD83 View Post
I've been reciting the iron keel on my Cheoy Lee Clipper 42. The old coating mostly fell off on haul out. I've stripped it to bare metal, re-coated with POR-15, and filled and faired with thickened epoxy. I plan to add at least one layer of fiberglass and then more epoxy with barrier coat additive. Am I missing anything? Do I need to add anything else before covering with bottom paint? Any recommendations on applying bottom paint (spray, brush, roll, etc.)?
I posted the following a while back re: coating my iron keel.

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by matjay View Post
From the research I've done it seems to me the best approach is to sandblast the keel white, then immediately apply a base layer of epoxy. Any recommendations as to what to use for the base layer? Is something like WEST systems alright, or is a zinc enriched epoxy necessary?

Sandblasting is correct - any grinding method will not clean ALL the pitted areas fully and future failures will start there. Just use regular epoxy resin as a seal coat - nothing fancy, just get it on right after blasting and a solvent wipe. You can't even leave this step overnight. West is only more expensive - 4 times as much as the industrial no-name resin I use. Stone fabricators - counter tops etc. use a lot of epoxy - check around and you'll save $hundreds.

Quote:
Moving on to a filler, again is WEST ok? and how many coats is recommended?

Again, West only costs more. Get a cement bag of industrial talc for about $20. It makes the most beautifully sanding filler you have ever experienced. Mix it to peanut butter consistency with epoxy and you probably won't even have any pinholes to fill after sanding.

Quote:
Many people claim to use a notched squeegee or trowel to apply the epoxy, and then fill in between the created lines? is this necessary?

This makes it MUCH easier to get an even coat. Unless you're an experienced plasterer, using a plain trowel will give you a very uneven thickness. You do NOT want to sand through to metal, ever, or you will have to start over there. You want a reasonably thick finished coat - 1/8" min. is my preference - in order to ensure the metal stays buried.

Get an autobody longboard sander - they look kind of like an old smoothing plane, about 18" long and take pre-cut strips of sandpaper. This will help you fair up your keel - mine ended up looking like it had been templated. Also, that keel was so bad it was actually perforated in some of the thin areas along the trailing edge.

I finished mine off with 3 coats of epoxy resin and 3 coats of Interprotect (there was still discussion as to the best sealer at that time). Now I'd just use Interprotect for all coats.
Forget coating it with glass. As Tommays correctly pointed out, it will do nothing but make more work down the road. If you prep & coat it well it will last for many years, barring groundings and so forth. Be aware though, since you didn't sandblast, the life of the new coating will be considerably shorter than if you had.

Spraying bottom paint is not a good idea - it's poison remember. Roll it on lengthwise and if you're fanatical, wet sand it lightly after. I doubt it's worth anything on a heavy full keeled boat. Longboarding it before painting would be more productive I'd think.
Attached Thumbnails
Hull Composition-001.jpg   Hull Composition-005.jpg  
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply

Tags
bottom paint , cheoy lee , coating , hull


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What is a g.r.p. hull castoff General Discussion (sailing related) 18 01-05-2013 09:28 PM
Columbia 29 fresh water holding tank composition. jlchristophel Columbia & Coronado 0 09-27-2010 05:26 PM
Hull ID vs. hull number bristol321 Bristol 8 03-17-2008 09:01 PM
Multi-Hull vs Mono-Hull Sailboats? terryjoe Boat Review and Purchase Forum 8 11-11-2007 10:45 AM
Do you paint over thru hull bronze nipples on hull saurav16 Gear & Maintenance 4 08-19-2007 06:15 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:49 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.