Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap? - SailNet Community

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Old 09-17-2012
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Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap?

Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap?
I am fixing up a Lido 14 (Classic), but I am on a tight budget and have much more small sailboat enthusiasm than I have repair/fix-up experience or skill.
I know from reading the forums that many of you have much nicer and larger boats, but since there is a lot of collective experience on SailNet, I’m hoping to get a few questions answered regarding my modest projects.
I put a couple of pics in my album that show the soft sections of the weathered teak CB trunk cap/s. There are two sections, about 4” wide, 5/8” thick and about 38”L and 8” L. I removed them from where they were screwed into the flat, flanged top of the CB trunk. The larger piece was warped (which is why I removed it – so that I could sand down the mis-shapened thicker area. It was held down by some gummy latex-like caulk which I removed, as well as by wood screws. The short forward section was either just screwed to the polyester/fiberglass CB trunk top, or maybe held with epoxy. If I can resuscitate these teak pieces, I’ll have to fill in the stripped wood screw holes in the teak.
I have some West Systems epoxy and hardener, as well as some HD filler (404) and some low density filler. I was thinking that I could soak some of the epoxy into the wood (soft in some places and checked on the ends), maybe use some sawdust or 404 filler for the cracks. Then if the filler showed a lot (tan?), I could maybe still have the fortified teak “look” like wood by stain/coating it with some “mahogany” (reddish) filler I have here. So, if this would work, I might still have a rescued piece that has some wood-like appearance. Or, can I just soak epoxy _without filler_ and after the cures, sand it and put some UV inhibitor like CETOL on it. There is a teak foredeck tray that is in good shape. When looking at the West Systems page, I noted that there is an epoxy for clear finish over wood. But that is $99, so I won’t be using that.
I know teak has oil in it, but I swear this looks as though it hasn’t had any oil in the wood for the last 10 years.
The only piece of new teak I have on hand to use as a replacement piece/s is a section of 3.5” teak decking. Too narrow, but itself, and like the pieces I want to replaced, it’s eased, maybe quarter rounded, on its edges. We have a table saw so maybe my husband can rip those sections for me and I could “glue” (epoxy? What type) and clamp those together, in the center, I guess as I’d be gluing two 3.5” sections and ripping them to get a 4” or so CB cap. This (for me) would also be some work, but with every little project I do, I learn. I am a shoestring sailor of small boats and sailing is probably my most favorite thing to do.
I will probably sell the Lido, but would love to sail it first and I don’t want to stick a buyer with a boat that needs attention, or take a real beating if I have to drop the price a lot.
After this, I’ll probably re-pair where the fiberglass has come off the aluminum ribs that go between the CB trunk and the cockpit floor (sole?). There’s other stuff to fix up in the cockpit and I think I can do that.
Thanks to anyone who can give me some ideas or feedback. I appreciate that I am out of my boat league here. I like small boats because I don’t have a mooring or frontage or money. But mostly, I love being close to the water surface. Salt water bays are the best and when I was younger, I would spend hours upon hours sailing a little MK Dinghy on the salt water bay in front of our home. Nothing else connects me so organically to the earth. I sorely miss the salt shore and bay fragrance and the taste of Casco Bay water in my mouth from time to time --paradise.
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Old 09-17-2012
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Re: Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap?

Here is the Lido 14: LIDO 14 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

I looked at your profile pictures of the teak CB cap. It is a judgment call you will have to make.

I have repaired some of the teak on my boat using 105/205 mixed with teak sawdust and covered it with Cetol. The patches take on the general color of teak but it is by no means a perfect match and is generally darker then the solid teak. Those cracks or splitting in the one picture worry me a bit but they too could be filled in. How it would end up looking is up for grabs.

Speaking of visual appearance I'd get some teak oil ($10/quart at hardware store) and oil those pieces up. You are right that teak is an oily wood. I believe that the oil helps to protect what solid wood remains. Oiled teak looks much nicer then dry wood, in my humble opinion.

What I think would probably look the best would be if you could get some new teak stock and make new pieces for the most worn out looking stuff. I can get teak wood for around $20/board foot (1 bd.ft.= 1" x 12" x 12"). That means that a 4' piece of 1" x 12" would cost nearly $100, but that might be enough to repair your CB trunk cap. Mahogany would be cheaper (by not that much) and would also look good but it is not as durable in the elements as teak.

I take it that you are not sailing in Casco Bay these days?
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Old 09-17-2012
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Re: Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap?

First, please don't be hard on yourself because you have a small boat. Anybody who looks down on a small boat sailor is a fool. ALL of my best sails were in small boats. Life and sailing were simpler then.
On to your problem. I am not sure that that is teak. Many here know a lot more about wood that I do and can make that call but on my 38 year old boat there is a LOT of teak and it is all sound while the lesser woods around it rotted away. None of my teak is rotten like that.
If I couldn't scrounge some cheap used teak I would replace that with something much cheaper and just do it again every ten or fifteen years.
There are a lot of boatyards that are ending up with abandoned boats by the dozens. The one I was at was scrapping decent boats for the lead in their keels because it was worth more than the whole boat. They had chunks of teak from time to time that you could have probably bought for $20.00.
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Old 09-17-2012
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Re: Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap?

I have rescued teak that looks that bad - it'll never look as good as new but it's amazing how good it can look. This is what I would do:

Sand it a smooth as possible and collect the sawdust.
Clean out the cracks as best you can with a brush.
Give the whole piece a coat of epoxy working it well into the cracks.
As CalebD said, make sawdust/epoxy paste and fill the cracks.
Sand flat.

Then it can be finished. I would apply two coats of epoxy followed by four or five coats of varnish. I've never used Cetol but any UV resistant finish that protects the epoxy would probably do the trick.

Good Luck.
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Old 10-26-2013
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Re: Can I rescue this section of LIDO teak CB cap?

A very late Thank You and hello to you.

I feel a bit sheepish responding after two years. Maybe there should be a law....

I kept meaning to, then put it off, then lost my password, then a hundred other things distracted me. I would be in bed and not be able to sleep thinking of what a hit and run stinker I was (but didn't mean to be). Ha! Somebody sink one of my boats. Oops. Already done.

I would like to thank those of you who responded to my note about that worn Lido CB cap.
I'd also like to confess that I never did fix it. When you get older ;-) your boats can get old with you, as can the roof, the cars, that perennial bed and garden, and the planet.

Caleb-D -- good info. I might just patch it with the epoxy and sawdust (as soon as I can collect the sawdust that tumble onto the floor from my uncovered container). I sanded down the uneven parts and might just put the cap pieces back on after varnishing/Cetol or whatever.

Casco Bay -- where I grew up and wish to return. I miss sailing between ledge and harbor seal and bouys in my little MK Dinghy. These days I'm stuck where my dear old dad warn us kids never to live, because it's always hotter than ____ in summer: inland more than 10 miles away from salt water.
BTW, I like your Isak Denesen quote. I used to read a lot of her short stories.

To sww914: thanks for the suggestion to scrounge around boat yards. I'm in stinkpot land, but an hours drive will take me to salt water. Oh, and my comment about being out of my league was more of a nod to how I'm asking advice from an audience with boats that are much larger and more costly. But of course, as you state, many of the members here started out on small boats. I absolutely agree with you about small boat sailing. I feel so connected and at home when I am close to the water (or in it -- in a good way). When I was younger and lived on the shore and had a mooring and haul off, I'd be in the dinghy sailboat for hours. I'd sail until the wind died and someone had to give me a tow in with our skiff because the tide and (forgot name of sideways wind push) were stronger than my little sail and daggerboard.

To Geoff54: thanks to you as well. I'll probably do this patching. I'll have to epoxy-sawdust patch the holes for the screws, then redrill. I think I will need to use some adhesive (what was on there -- white gummy stuff; I bet not original). Maybe 3M 4200?

Good to be back reading sailnet. This is a good time now that I need to fix up yard and house and tarp boats for the winter. Need a new roof too so why not read sailnet. (I was about to post an ad on CL for a Beetle 'Gull' when I looked for a photo or venue and saw someone asking about the original rudder w the slides (instead of pintles and gudgeons). A peculiar set up. I want to find a good "restoration" home for my Beetle Gull.
Ever see one of these early hulls? Like cast iron. I'm so "old" that I do recall people (locals) suspicious of plastic boats. Even bleach bottle bailers weren't trusted! (actually pre plastic bleach bottles). I've got one of those cobbed-together pine square bottom bailers that fishermen used to use on one of my bookcases.

Happy sailing (or tarping),
boatshell
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