Originally Posted by SloopJonB
If you had spent as much time as I have on my boat, replacing and/or drilling out inappropriately used fasteners, you'd NEVER make that particular assumption.
I hardly ever use wood screws any more. even in wood to wood joints. SMS work better in most cases.
If I could like this post a dozen times. I replaced my aft trim, left the front alone because one side was recoverable. Turned out the idiots used sillycone and plated wood screws. As they rusted they cracked the fiberglass they were in and all required drilling out.
Same in the interior, brass and steel wood screws everywhere. See it on customer's boats all the time too.
I have wondered about using wodscrews with thinner material sometimes, the shoulder would help prevent pulling up and damage as the screw bites, but haven't found stainless ones yet to try.
I think you are in the right track, if it were my boat I would use one of the uv resistant 3m products instead of burly.(4000 is pretty good, but you'd want a slower cure for this). I would space my screws farther apart, dry fit with a screw on each end, tape both the hull and the trim with masking tape with a even, small space in between for a nice effect. Then remove the trim, lay a big fat bead of the 3m goop, even it out with a putty knife, bed the trim and screw in place. Tear up some paper towels and have a garbage bag ready. Use you finger to smooth the caulk, wiping excess on a scrap of paper towel every few inches. Push down fairly strongly, the goal is to cause the product to taper thinner at the edges than even the tape.
I can do this without tape, it was how I was taught to do it with granite countertops years ago, but the masking tape takes all the headache out of it, albeit with a bit more waste.
Well worth it imo.
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