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post #1 of 12 Old 10-01-2012 Thread Starter
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Teak stain issue

Hey, my name is Rich, and i'm new to this forum and "sailing", but been on the water all my life.
I just "aquired" a 1978 Islander 32, but has been on stands for a long time when my uncle got ill. It was neglected and has some water damage inside, most irritating is the teak staining. The teak itself is in great shape, but has a dirt staid half way up the cabinets. I have tried a couple products, and can't get the stain out. Any expierence with these issues? I'll try and post some pictures of what i got later on.
Thanks a ton
Rich
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Teak stain issue

That may be a water stain rather than dirt. If so, you will have a very hard time removing without considerable sanding and even then it may be too deep.

The boat likely partially filled with water on the hard. This most often happens when leaves are left in the cockpit clogging the scuppers and the water over-flows into the cabin.

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post #3 of 12 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Teak stain issue

Water stains need to be stained back out - surprisingly enough with 'stain'.

If it's just oiled teak you can try the various cleaners and then re-oil it.

That of course means the entire section - or the whole interior.

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post #4 of 12 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Teak stain issue

You wont be able to post pictures until you have > 10 posts.

You can try the commercially available teak cleaners (1 part or 2 part) but as Tim suggested those water stains can be difficult to get out. The single part teak cleaner is basically oxalic acid which is the main ingredient of Barkeeper's Friend (found in hardware stores). West Marine, Defender and similar online chandlerys will sell the 2 part teak cleaner. These teak treatments may lighten up the stained area a bit.

I'm thinking that if after cleaning with the above the stain line is still visible that I'd consider using a stain that is slightly darker then the darkest of your wood. I'm not a big fan of Minwax stains and prefer a good oil based stain.

You could also try treating the wood with Tung oil which will likely darken all of the wood. For teak wood I prefer using Teak oil but Tung oil will darken more.

You may also just get used to living with the discoloration.

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post #5 of 12 Old 10-01-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Teak stain issue

i appreciate the info...it's definitly a water stain...no mater how many times i wash it with teak cleaner it doesn't go away, although it does lighten it up a good bit. And i'm glad you brought up staining it, i was wondering about if that was an option. I'm going to try using the teak oil to see if it works out....then plan B, C ect....
And as far as what i've done, i've pulled out every piece of woodwork that was screwed down to refinish in the basement...the rest of it will be done this spring when it warms up some (maine)
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Teak stain issue

By all means try Teak oil on it and see if you can live with that.
If not and staining is the next option I'd recommend a stain made by ML Campbell ML Campbell Home
if you can find a distributor near you. Minwax is a dumbed down stain for the masses and I find that it often does an unsatisfactory job. The ML Campbell stains are oil based and are much more likely to give you a uniform looking finish once done. Their stain can be applied with a rag. I'll bet that they make a pigment that is close to teak.

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post #7 of 12 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Teak stain issue

If the teak is solid teak and the end grain was exposed at the bottom and the strakes were semi-immersed for a long time .... what probably happened in a worst case scenario is called 'spalting' or migration of fungal filiamentous growth along the 'water channels' of the wood. Since if its teak there will be little bungal damage per se but the 'stain' from the fungus will be very hard to remove if especially the spalting is deep.

Rx: small trial on an incomspicuous spot -
soak with a mixture of TrisodiumPhosphate -TSP to 'dissolve' the funal seccls and oxidized teak surface cells ... this will extract tannis from the bare wood so the 'effluent' of the wash may be brown. Start with diltuted mixes of small amounts of TSP dissolved in a high proportion of water ... and slowly 'work up' to heavy dose of TSP ... what youre looking for is a diminshment of the 'spalting' ..... dont worry about the teak color at this time. The job is dissolve the fungus that's inside the wood.

If the TSP affects reduction of the spalting, then rinse well and apply oxalic crystals mixed into hot/warm water and do a trial bleaching to remove possible iron staining and possible tannin migration staining ... the tannins migrated within the wood 'channels' when it was water saturated. If that comes close to 'clearing' the stain, then let the wood dry and attempt to sand the wood down to see if the staining is deep or surface staining. If deep, consider to paint the wood if its 'that ughly'.
If only surface deep, do the entire surface, but light sand away any varnish before treatment with TSP and Oxalic.

Once cleaned, bleached, rinsed, dried and sanded, You 'can' then begin to color match the differences. Use very very thinned out stains on the worst color affected section and slowly and constantly keep working and wiping on/ wiping off the stain until you get a good color match ... may take several days of applying, wiping and drying to reach the 'match'. Dont apply the stain all at once, use very thinned out stain ... and then think what primary color - RED, blue, yellow is missing or is too 'strong' as the color 'develops' and you need to change the 'hue' of the stain youre using.

Read the cautions on each container of TSP and Oxalic carefully. Dont mix TSP with oxalic. Wear gloves, goggles, etc. when using either.

Good luck, be patient but persistent.
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Teak stain issue

I've used a blue scotch pad and teak oil to rub out some water stains on my boat with some success.....if you look hard you can see the stain line but it is amazing what 30 minutes with the pad did. A friend on the dock suggested applying wood stain in gradually darker colors to blend it in, and then covering with a satin finish varnish (all of the interior woodwork is teak with satin varnish and it's time to refresh all of that, now that I think about it.......)

Anyway - good luck. Post a bunch of pics in one of the picture threads or songs in the song chain and you'll get to your 10 post minimum pretty quickly.

Welcome aboard.

Andy
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S/V Everlasting Moon
1981 Endeavour 32

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post #9 of 12 Old 10-02-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Teak stain issue

I greatly appreciate all your time with the information...the last couple days has been allot of scrubbing...I ended up using a 2 part cleaner, two good long washings, and scrubbing and scrubbing and scrubbing, combining stiff brush and a green pad in the bad areas...i then used the brightner, 2 extended doses of this, and a light scrubbing to dry and get it in the grain. This actually worked very well. I know there is a stain, but even with that i can only see it in the right light, and mainly if the light is right on it. I'm happy with it so far. The rest of the wood work inside the boat is going to need some of the same treatment, might try the TSP. Again thanks a ton, glad i found this board, it will be a useful place for this project
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Re: Teak stain issue

TSP is definitely worth trying. It is cheap, quite effective against mold and easy to use. A good hardware store will have it (as well as HD, Lowes). It is often used to clean outdoor deck areas.

Glad to hear that the teak cleaners had some effect.

If you can avoid using a stain I think you will be ahead of the game. Might just take a lot of work.

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