Advice on removing snapped s/s bolts from alu block - Page 3

dabnis · #21 10-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommays

You pretty much screwed yourself not using heat and patience in the initial tear down don't screw your self up even worse learning to drill out small SS bolts on something that will become JUNK if you get wrong as there is NO room for error

Well said, I have done a few and got lucky, but not with stainless bolts. As mentioned earlier, bite the bullet and take it to a good machine shop. I have done heli-coils but not on something that small. Suggest you put the cost of buying the heli-coil into letting the pros drill and re-tap.

Paul T

Sal Paradise · #22 10-05-2012

well easy outs and pb blaster isn't going to help. That is bad advice.

Yeah, if a machine shop will take that little job and not make him wait a month or two, by all means take it to a shop. That would be ideal. But sometimes life is less than ideal. Some shops laugh in your face.

As far as screwing himself and no margin for error those opinions are pretty subjective. Depends on how old, how stuck and what the casting looks like. It may have snapped even with heat or worse tore the casng apart. Many who wrench for themselves will feel like they screwed themselves at some point. Thats doing it yourself. Press on.

I have not helicoiled an outboard but I have done this on aluminum motorcycle engines and its not difficult and its a proven repair.

MarkSF · #23 10-05-2012

Normally I'm pretty good at not snapping bolts, but this one snapped as soon as I touched the wrench. Clearly the previous re-builder felt it starting to go and left it like that. The second was pre-snapped for me. So I absolve myself of guilt in this case.

Somewhat encouraging me is the fact that a new block from Yamaha is $240 so I feel like I can have a go at this, take my chances, and if I screw it up I'll get a new block.

SOVT · #24 10-05-2012

I would add this to the previous comments. Prior to center punching take a dremel tool and dress the exposed end of the bolt so you have a flat surface to punch. Additionally, I have had better luck with the square screw extractors vs easy outs.

Good luck

Mike

dabnis · #25 10-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkSF

Normally I'm pretty good at not snapping bolts, but this one snapped as soon as I touched the wrench. Clearly the previous re-builder felt it starting to go and left it like that. The second was pre-snapped for me. So I absolve myself of guilt in this case.

Somewhat encouraging me is the fact that a new block from Yamaha is $240 so I feel like I can have a go at this, take my chances, and if I screw it up I'll get a new block.

My guess is that unless the shop is desperate for work they would start at at least $100 to $200? A new block might be easier if you can't drill and tap it properly. Not sure about a heli-coil that size, it may depend on how much room there is around the hole?

Paul T

tommays · #26 10-05-2012

One of the issues with helicoils in a wet area of a block is well they LEAK

The second issue is the helicoil tap/drill is one full size over the old bolt hole and IF there is enough wall there to do it as the water passages are pretty tight

dabnis · #27 10-05-2012

For $240 for a new block, you don't have much to lose by trying to drill and tap. I used heli-coils on motorcycle spark plug holes and was not aware of leaking but if in a water jacket you wouldn't know until you re-assembled everything. New block looks better considering your time?

Paul T

MarkSF · #28 10-05-2012

The two bolts in question are surrounded by the gasket, so leaking should not be an issue. I'm willing to have a go at removing the bolts, and maybe helicoiling, but taking the block to a machine shop is probably not economic, given the price of a new block.

I'll let you know what transpires!

Sea Dawg · #29 10-05-2012

The old adage applies, "Experience comes from equipment ruined!". Just where does all that experience/wisdom come from?

exkma367 · #30 10-05-2012

I used to work with a welder who would tig the top of the bolt building it up until you could put vice grip pliers on the buildup. The heat from the tig went a long way toward loosening up the bolts. I have seen him do it on #8's broken off in the hole. If you are going to drill, buy the correct size left hand drill bit. It will be nice to have in the tool box in any case. Turning the bolt in the correct direction while drilling may give you a pleasant surprise.