slightly soft floor remedies

[eherlihy]

See Boulter Plywood in Sommerville, MA

Teak & Holly

Genuine Burmese teak plywood with the appearance of a traditional deck planking:

2 3/8” wide teak,¼” wide holly
1.1mm thick teak face before sanding
Tropical hardwood core.

1/4" stock is a .9mm face veneer.

-----------------1/4"-------1/2"--------3/4"
4 x 8 -----------215.00-----235.00----275.00
4 x 4 or 2 x 8----130.00-----145.00----165.00

Weight per 4 x 8--25 Lbs-----48 Lbs----72 Lbs

Teak & Holly Plastic Laminate 4' x 8' x 1/2" $275.00 per sheet 2 3/8” wide teak,¼” wide holly

Teak & Holly Plastic Laminate 4' x 8' x veneer $225.00 per sheet 2 3/8” wide teak,¼” wide holly

Exact quotations on all products and delivery options can be obtained by:

Phone (888) - 9 LUMBER * (888) 958-6237

No affiliation - just trying to help out.

[chucklesR]

I picked up a piece of teak at Exotic 4 years ago - for 70 bucks.

It was 2 inches thick, 9 wide and 6 feet long.

I could have cut that up into 3/32 thick, 2 7/8 wide by 6 foot planks and done a lot of sole for a LOT under 400 bucks. By epoxying those planks onto marine ply with a holly strip it would have been stronger and far better than a thin .9mm veneer.

I got the piece to make a fireplace mantel, got rid of the fireplace instead so I turned the wood into a large number of decorative backing plates and such on my boat and others. All that remains is a 2 inch by 9 inch by 18 inch chunk.

And that would be a crap load better than .9mm thick veneer.

Look around at mill shops - some are reasonable and most are looking for work - not everyone owns the gear to re-saw and plane.

[eherlihy]

Chuckles - the .9mm veneer is only on the ¼" sheets. The others use a whopping 1.1mm veneer

[chucklesR]

Originally Posted by eherlihy

Chuckles - the .9mm veneer is only on the ¼" sheets. The others use a whopping 1.1mm veneer

Yeah, cus that's better.

Frigging varnish is laid on thicker than that.

[floridajaxsailor]

Some great comments on this thread thank you
Emoney I really appreciate the detail I am wondering as completely agree the cancer analogy plus ballcap- brilliant but 1 of my questions is the fiberglass skin that's over this floor I don't have a plywood floor
the only wood on the floor is that small panel which covers the bildge~ it is 3 feet long by 4 inches wide.

I assume to get to the stringers which I can only guess are obviously are under the fiberglass skin the floor... there are may be a soft stringer ot two- most of the floor seems very solid
but yes, at some point I would like to clean it out and make sure it's all dry
Can this be done in the water? And how do you recommend cutting the fiberglass skin~ seems like the preformentioned router is a great option I saw somebody mentioned
Further, how do you rebuild the floor skin after stringer repair- I assume you have an option then of going fiberglass again or wood flooring